Maybe odd bicycle drivetrain question

[T77911S]

39x53 and a 12-21 9 spd, never used the small ring.

mountains was a different setup.

[David]

Steve, I know you and I've seen you work on cars. I'll be surprised if you don't find that same passion with cycling. It's all I can do to not buy some new component that I don't need at all.

What I do is treat myself with upgrades. If I reach a new significant cycling goal and it's been a while since my last upgrade, I might spring for a new set of wheels or new derailleurs.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by wayner

Quick, someone introduce him to a heart rate monitor and analysis software before he buys more bicycle parts

The man needs a diversion...fast!

Hahah, I have a good chest strap HRM from when I started running last spring, plus an Apple watch that does a remarkably good job.

Originally Posted by red-beard

I'm a Shimano guy. You can mix and match Dura-ace, Ultegra, 105, Sora, etc. It is very common on the lower end bikes to have 105 front and sora rear.

Ultegra is usually last years Dura-ace. Same with the 105. Usually the BEST price point for "performance" is Ultegra/105. I usually ran Ultegra.

Just make sure you have the right chain. 9-10 (rear gear) is different chain than 8 different than 11.

Lots of good info here, thanks, and I'll check out that link in your other post.

Interesting, good to know. I guess the reason for something like Dura-Ace in the front and 105 in the rear is cost? I would think that the most shifting is done at the rear, so you'd want the best at the rear, but when you factor in cost, I'm guessing that makes a big difference?

Originally Posted by red-beard

The REAL question is...what are you doing with the bike. I did more playing with the gear ratios in the front and rear, because we do quite a bit of hill work.

As a rider with a significant weight penalty...the hill climbing granny gears were enough to allow me to hit the hills in Bastrop and not have to walk. Yes, you will understand soon. You will also know Rek hill and you might, if you learn the routes, learn about "oh-****" hill.

At this point, get out and ride. Get to the point of being able to do 20-30 miles. And work on getting your speed up to 15-17 mph. THEN start to learn how to ride in groups.

I'm sure that I'd love to have something bigger than 50 in the front, if not right now, then probably soon, but I don't plan on changing the ratios any time soon. I think I'm covered as far as flats and hills. I'm curious about the hills and hoping to be able to get at least somewhat prepared for them by the time I'm there. Right now, the missus and I are going to go out for a little bit until she is comfortable on the bike and until we can get up to a reasonable speed. Fortunately, we've got Buffalo Bayou and White Oak Bayou that are local and give us a one way distance of nearly 20 miles so we can train there without having to worry about traffic.

Originally Posted by red-beard

BTW - If I remember, you are in South-east. If so, TX-3 is a REALLY great road for riding. But there are lots of good areas to ride down there, just no hill training. Lots of routes starting from the Dog Track.

We used to be down there, but now we're central, about 1/4 mile from the big AIG building with the huge American flag on Allen pkwy.

Originally Posted by David

Steve, I know you and I've seen you work on cars. I'll be surprised if you don't find that same passion with cycling. It's all I can do to not buy some new component that I don't need at all.

What I do is treat myself with upgrades. If I reach a new significant cycling goal and it's been a while since my last upgrade, I might spring for a new set of wheels or new derailleurs.

That sounds like a plan. I suspect you're right about how passionate I'll get about cycling. I hope the missus does as well. That will certainly make it easier and more enjoyable.

[mepstein]

The most common mistake I saw while working at the bike shop was the guy would by himself a really nice bike and accessories and buy the wife or girlfriend the mid or lower end. Do the opposite or at least equal. Much of your riding pleasure will be determined by the riding pleasure of your significant other.

[masraum]

Originally Posted by mepstein

The most common mistake I saw while working at the bike shop was the guy would by himself a really nice bike and accessories and buy the wife or girlfriend the mid or lower end. Do the opposite or at least equal. Much of your riding pleasure will be determined by the riding pleasure of your significant other.

We bought identical bikes (other than frame size). We each bought different saddles. Other than the saddles, our bikes are the same.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by wayner

Or just a stem cap

https://www.kapz.com/headset-caps?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1P_OzZfy3wIVEYzICh3ggA2BEAA YASACEgIjcvD_BwE

Those are so cute but we chased Ti stem bolts for quill stems or seat post binder bolts. Alum bottle cage bolts. Sound stupid, but these things weren't available just at any bike shops and had to be ordered and they were damn hard to find. No internet. Of course, I was just a dumb teenager then and was flat broke so I looked at those catalogues for hours or buy them used when possible.

[red-beard]

On the "mix and match" in the drive trains, If I remember it was usually more expensive up-front and cheaper in the rear. The cassette doesn't have markings, so you can't tell it is cheaper.

Really, the best thing, is105. Ultegra is for those who want lower weight but can't afford Dura-Ace. 105 is great and in some respects, more durable than Ultegra. The weight difference is not enough to make a difference at your riding level.

I'll have to send you a modified version of the "Taco Loop". It was intended to get every bit of terrain around downtown. One chunk is gone: Elysian Viaduct.

If you want to try a "hill" nearby, ride TC Jester from 11th south to I-10. The hardcore guys ride the downtown parking garages...

[red-beard]

Originally Posted by look 171

Those are so cute but we chased Ti stem bolts for quill stems or seat post binder bolts. Alum bottle cage bolts. Sound stupid, but these things weren't available just at any bike shops and had to be ordered and they were damn hard to find. No internet. Of course, I was just a dumb teenager then and was flat broke so I looked at those catalogues for hours or buy them used when possible.

The only titanium I used: tire levers. I have a set that were made from cast offs form making titanium cages. They are light but SO strong.

[look 171]

If you are really itchy to spend money, buy wheels. They will be the best investment on a bike. Light wheels will make you go faster and drag less weight up a hill. Weight on a wheel is important but not else where on a bike. then there's the dish wheel, but I wouldn't get into that right now because there is no benefit unless you are going near 20mph. Usually they are heavier.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by red-beard

The only titanium I used: tire levers. I have a set that were made from cast offs form making titanium cages. They are light but SO strong.

I still like those old fashion alum levers but they are getting harder and harder to find. I just carry one plastic lever. I cut the tip off to it fits in my little bag better.

I do own a Merlin now, its a fine riding bicycle. When they were in fashion, I couldn't justify spending 1700+ on a frame.

[red-beard]

Originally Posted by look 171

I still like those old fashion alum levers but they are getting harder and harder to find.

I have a set of Specialized forged aluminum. They are the best. But the Titanium ones are about 1/8th the size (diameter) and probably weigh 30 grams...

[herr_oberst]

I spent a couple of seasons trying to get the SRAM Force front D working properly on my winter bike; what a finicky little thing; I could get it to shift like a boss on the stand but I used up my whole vocabulary of swears on the road. I finally broke down and bought a Red front derailleur and haven't looked back.
It shifts almost as well as my Tarmac with the full Red gruppo.

I think I'm at a point in my life where if I ever build up another bike I'm just going to go 105. Cheap and bulletproof and it just plain works. (I use it on my gravel bike, and it's fine.) The grams I'd save over Ultegra or DA aren't worth the cost, and I could eat salad for a week and make up that weight penalty.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by red-beard

I have a set of Specialized forged aluminum. They are the best. But the Titanium ones are about 1/8th the size (diameter) and probably weigh 30 grams...

1/8 the size? Where did you get them? Can I still buy them? I carry a very small pouch in my pocket. 12 ounce CO2, one cut lever, a tube and some money so I can have dinner while waiting for my wife to come get me.

[herr_oberst]

For tire levers, I have a single blue Park made of plastic. Under normal circumstances it takes about 4 minutes to change the tube and be back on the road. (Hate to make my pals wait while I fix a flat.)

[look 171]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

I spent a couple of seasons trying to get the SRAM Force front D working properly on my winter bike; what a finicky little thing; I could get it to shift like a boss on the stand but I used up my whole vocabulary of swears on the road. I finally broke down and bought a Red front derailleur and haven't looked back.
It shifts almost as well as my Tarmac with the full Red gruppo.

I think I'm at a point in my life where if I ever build up another bike I'm just going to go 105. Cheap and bulletproof and it just plain works. (I use it on my gravel bike, and it's fine.) The grams I'd save over Ultegra or DA aren't worth the cost, and I could eat salad for a week and make up that weight penalty.

It aint about the weight anymore. I gave up my great shifting SRAM to 105 shifters with Ultegra drive train off another bike the local guy had only because I wanted 11 spd with a compact crank and a 30 large cog so I can climb trees. I needed it for the damn Levi ride up in Santa Rosa. I don't normally like doing those but the boys wanted to get away for the second year in a roll so I did. That 100 miles kick my teeth in with lots of climbing and the last long steep hill, up to 18 % and this thing would go on for 4-5 miles with an avg of 8-9 %. I needed those tree climbing gears so I mounted it on my Ridley. I didn't like how the 105 shifts. It doesn't up shift when the lever is pushed, but shifts when the lever is pushed and shifts when the lever is returned. Another words, shift, clicks and let go then shifts. Just like the old 9 spd. I love their 9 spd group.

I am still running DA 10 spd electronic. Just love it, its basically PDK. My next bike will be 11 spd electronic Dura Ace.

[look 171]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

I was descending in very windy conditions the other day with my deep section wheels.

YEOW!!!! PAY ATTENTION!!!

hang on to them bars man.

I hate to catch a cross wind going pass a building and wham, the wind just blows the front wheel loose and surprise, everyone is grabbing their handbars because they were all asleep sucking the wheel in front of them.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by look 171

I needed it for the damn Levi ride up in Santa Rosa. I don't normally like doing those but the boys wanted to get away for the second year in a roll so I did. That 100 miles kick my teeth in with lots of climbing and the last long steep hill, up to 18 % and this thing would go on for 4-5 miles with an avg of 8-9 %. I needed those tree climbing gears so I mounted it on my Ridley.

You're the animal in the Pelican group of riders; that is for sure, no question about it!

[Jeff Alton]

Exactly herr,

We have a stretch about 4km from the house we ride on some of our routes, short but steep down hill which is great to get spinning while getting warm. Reach north of 60km/hr easily but it comes out of trees into a wide open flat area with cross winds from time to time. Don't feel it much at all with the 35mm wheels on but big movement on the bike with the 50's or 60's.

Rode my 60's down in Palm Springs last Feb, big winds and got pushed all over the place. If I head down again this winter, bringing the 35s

[mepstein]

the biggest difference you can make are your contact points - hands, butt, feet and your tires. Weight have very little difference to overall results. Sure it feels good when you are lifting the bike up to the roof rack but overall, less weight has very little meaning unless you are riding super hilly rides and weight is very expensive to lower on a per pound basis. Upgrading parts like derailleurs and brakes also have very little improvement. The components are designed to work as a system so unless you do everything, it won't change much. Bike fit, riding time and experience will make the biggest changes.

Think about it like our Porsches, change out a wheel to one that's 2 lbs lighter, you can tell yourself the car is faster and there may be a measurable difference but realistically it's minute. Go to larger brake calipers but leave everything else the same, you now have bigger brakes but stopping is pretty much the same because you haven't changed the entire system, just one part. Ride one hundred miles a week for 6 weeks, now you've done something that makes a difference.

[red-beard]

One of the worst cases is a stiff left side cross wind. You are fighting it by keeping a bit of wheel to the left. A car passes you, it block the wind and you lurch towards the car!