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I replaced my swaybar end links, plugged a tire, and then repaired the three fingernails I broke doing that.

I'm a gentleman so I won't answer that ;)

Incredibly durable bearing surface. Prevents wear with a minimum amout of very light oil.

Yep, synthetic ruby is used as a sort of durable bearing surface in watch movements.

When you think of the "gears" in a clock or watch these will be made of metal and each one has a sort of axle, each gear needs to be precisely positioned relative to the next so that they can mesh perfectly. To hold the "axle" securely the synthetic ruby is used since it can be made to a very precise tolerance (so that axle isn't rattling around) but is also extremely durable and makes a low friction bearing surface. The "jewel" has a hole in the center to capture this "axle" and hold everything in place. (side note: in watch parlance the gears are called "wheels" and the axles are called "pivots" just to make things more confusing).

https://professionalwatches.com/wp-c...d-pivot-3D.png

In the image below of the watch movement I was working on you can see a jewel pretty much dead center, this is the jewel for the pivot (axle) of the aptly named "center wheel" which you can see peeking out directly below it. If you look hard you can actually see the hole in the center of the jewel and the bit of "axle" visible there. So basically anywhere you see a purple jewel on a watch movement there is something rotating directly below it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1731556738.JPG


There are actually a few uses for jewels in a watch movement which are different than what I am describing above (in the balance and pallet fork) but that is more of a footnote... mostly jewels are used as described above. Last but not least, generally speaking super cheap watch movements have few or even no jewels (they use a metal to metal solution instead) so a high number of jewels became synonymous with "good watch." Broadly speaking this is true since a highly precise and highly durable watch movement will certainly be using jewels, but it led to some makers adding extraneous jewels for no purpose beyond saying they have more jewels than the other guy.

Thank you, your post was very interesting and informative.

Replaced the control valve on my water heater.
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Power went out yesterday with the snow storm. 20 hours or so. Brothers boss generator didnt start. I cleaned the carb and it ran but went wide open. The governer wasnt doing anything. We all figured the goveroner gear went bad inside. Took it all apart and it was fine. Got it all back together and adjusted the arm and it was fine again. Kinda odd because it seemed tight and by the corrosion on it didnt look like it had slipped. We changed the oil. The hard way :rolleyes: Anyway now he brought his sons generator because he thought it seized up. It isnt seized up but backfires like crazy and rips the cord from your hand. The flywheel key and valves seem fine. So I suspect the plastic came gear has slipped. Probably going to tear down that one tomorrow. Maybe after i investigate how off the cam timing is.

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Helped a buddy tow his (1997?) Land River home. Fuel pump went out.

Came home and washed the 330. Pulled the new used fenders off to roll the inner fender lips flat. Then sanded and Bondoed a few small dents on one of the fenders and passenger door. I’ll finish tomorrow..

No, got the aluminum balusters on Amazon.

Thanks!!

Found and fixed a few more small dents on the 330 front fenders. Replaced thd AC belt and swapped the original steering column flex joint with a solid joint.


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I got that other generator running again. It was the compression release on the cam stuck.

Not today, but I found another project for my list.
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Needed some comfort food after another 2 weeks of a cold... probably covid, but who cares anymore... am I right?
Anyway I cooked up 2 gallons of some bolognaise from scratch with beef, elk, pork, homemade from the garden pasata and marzanos.... 7 hours and almost a quart of cab... it's awesome. I dug out my pasta roller mill jacked it onto our kitchen aid and made a big mess of pappardelle... i finish my bolognaise with heavy cream not milk... Dinner was amazing and I slept like a babe...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1732579282.jpg
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Made myself a handle for the sliding door to my shop. It's about 10 inches long. I welded a few 3/8" bolts to the side and drilled a few holes. in the door. Rattle can flat black. Done.


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^^^^ Looks great!

My rain and freeze sensor died. The outside unit quit talking to the inside unit. I looked at a replacement outside only sensor, and it was more than a full inside and outside unit. So I got both, and replaced both just a few minutes ago.

It is nice to know I can trust the system to not come in weather below 34 degrees and if we get more than a 1/4 inch or rain. Both values can be adjusted, but I left the freeze sensor at the default, and the rain sensor down at 1/4 inch of rain. It was all just unscrew and install the new parts. Easy peazy job.

This is for your irrigation system I assume?

Rainbird?

You know......at one time a few years ago I was trying to offer some advice to someone looking for work. I told her she could offer a service where she serviced rain sensors only and stay busy all the time.

Of course we don't have or need freeze sensors. But our rainfall is so inconsistent having an operational rain sensor is very helpful!

They are required for all new systems but not (legally retroactive) required on older ones.

Servicing one is not hard work. You could easily put together a business model where you offer an annual check and service. Options could be once a year --- or more often.

We do have plenty of irrigation contractors but I bet the subject of rain sensors hardly ever comes up unless a problem arises. This would be a nice pro-active service for property owners.

Stripped all the paint off the roof on the 330 and primed it. If you looked close, it was crazed. Now with everything either replaced or sanded down and primed, I’m debating what to do on the rear flares I did a couple years ago. They look like crap and it’s causing the car to be raised up in the back, due to tire clearance. It was the first time I’ve ever done any kind of metal work and welding. With the rear fenders finished, I’ll finally get it to Maaco for a track car paint job.

Mocking up the dimensions of the flare and what I will need to cut out and raise.



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I bet. Do you hand cut the pappardelle or do you have a wide cutting attachment. Mine only does fettucine...

Hand cut.. mine only does fettuccine as well.

Yea, it is for the irrigation system all done 26 years ago with the Rainbird Professional line. I went to the garage this morning at it was only 35 degrees outside and the sensor showed active and working. The old outside sensor just stopped talking to the the inside unit. I replaced the battery and no joy. The biggest pain is after a few years the little wafers that absorb the rain to tell it to not water because of rain just stop absorbing water properly. I have replaced just the wafers, the ones I can find are poor quality and don't last long.

I was able to lay down the first coat of the first color on my friend's supercub yesterday. He'd done all the covering work with his ia's supervision. We're doing a 3 color job glacier white on top and a dark green on the bottom with the traditional supercub spear in gold.

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Trying to convert these flanges, from screw in studs, to press in ARP studs.

I only need to increase the size a couple hundredths and my new drill bits don’t seem to be cutting, because it’s using so much of the outside edge?

Would it be better to use a reamer?

The knurled section is .510; the threaded section is .468; what size drill bit or reamer would you recommend? My drill bit was .498

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733089037.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733089037.jpg

Impressive paintwork Guy.

I would have expected the drill bit to work, and give you a hole very close to 0.500". Maybe it's a crap drill bit?

If you have a 0.500 reamer that should work. Or buy a 1/2" carbide drill bit. The carbide bits tend to chip though, I'm not sure the interrupted cut is good for it.

It was a DeWalt drill bit. I probably need to slow the speed down some and not press so hard. It seemed like it was working, until the smoke came out…

Thanks Bill.
Rocket, I like reamers.... a lot especially when everything is centered and locked down. However, if your bit size is correct it should do fine, just slow it down and use a good cutting oil.
Oh and don't release the magic smoke... ya can't ever get it back into the bit.

^^^ After some reading online, I don’t think I can ream it from .468 to .5 Not in one go any way. Maybe a tapered reamer?

No, do not do that. Buy a good drill bit, the one that produced smoked is done.

Normally I would say that 0.468 is too small to ream, but's not a solid hole, it's threaded. Just buy a good bit, slow the rpm, lubricate and don't overload the bit.

https://www.amazon.com/HLOFIZI-Cobalt-Drill-Titanium-Stainless/dp/B0D3DVDXHN/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?cv_ct_cx=1% 2F2%22%2Bdrill%2Bbit&sbo=9ZOMT9Jm0JH%2Ft%2BWi68iDS A%3D%3D&sr=1-1-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0a WM

Exactly... let the bit cut

Bits ordered!

I have about six 1/2” bits in the last one semi worked. I got it through, but all of the bits are inly good for wood or soft metals now.

I knocked the stud in with a brass hammer. It wasn’t too difficult, so I’m thinking I may do a small weld on the back, to keep them from spinning…

Since the back of the flange has a slight curve to it, I ground the area around the hole flat. Going forward, I will only make the flat spot just big enough for the head of the stud.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733197389.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733197389.jpg

Just a couple more to go.

Stopped at Lowe’s and picked up another 1/2” bit. Slowed the rpm’s and used lots of oil. It went through like a hot knife through butter.🤪

One hole got off just a tad, when I checked the studs for square. I had to massage the hole just a bit to square it up.

I think I’ll bolt it to a wheel and tack weld the studs to the hub. It will keep everything in place.

This was a test run to see how it worked. I ordered another rear hub and two new front hubs. When I do maintenance of the 330. I’ll install the new parts.

Thanks everyone!

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733272186.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733272186.jpg

The secret to life is to slow down and use lube liberally.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733280709.jpg

Are those studs 8740 chrome moly? I would not be welding those without talking with the manufacturer. Some chrome moly metals will stress crack with welding.

I don’t know what they are. Good idea to talk to the manufacturer.

Edit… a quick look at the ARP website, and it seems like all of the wheel studs are 8740 chrome moly. So what would I need to do?

Edit 2: I would only weld maybe 25% of the bolt to the flange. Not a full 360.

I found this on their website, about the hole size. The 1/2” drill bit is too big.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733313959.jpg

Loctite and move on. A failure will be an annoyance, I don't think it can be life threatening.

You said above the knurl is 0.510". The hole can be 0.006" - 0.016" interference. You should have about 0.010"....

The effort required to press the studs in should give you an idea of the interference.

I knocked the studs in with a brass hammer. Kind of hard to gauge the interference😂. That said, it took some good blows, to knock them in.

Maybe the Loctite is a good idea. Thanks

A930Rocket, get yourself a .500 HSS reamer for the other hubs, you need to spin it at about 100rpm and consistent feed rate and cutting oil on it. Reaming from .468 to .500 wont be a problem. The holes you drilled likely ended up oversize a little from the drill chattering, if you really want to drill you can try and and grind the cutting edge of the bit flat and see if that helps. A reamer would be best though.