Had the pleasure of replacing my mailbox post this afternoon after the snowplow snapped off the old one Monday morning. The replacement post is set 6" further back from the road. Hopefully this will take it out of the danger zone. It was kind of impressive to see a 6x6 post snapped like a matchstick. Wonder if the plow driver felt it.

Best
Les

Got a new set of tires for the Volvo today.

Way overdue as the date code on them were 2011! They were on the car when I bought it 3 years ago. Had a slow leak on the right front but since this wasn't my DD, I didn't prioritize the replacement process. Until it finally blew out on Monday. No biggie - very easy to change but now I was using the space saver spare with no spare so today was the day for new shoes.

These are P195 60 R15 tires so not a big expense item. I ended up getting a whole set out the door for only $313.

I used Discount Tire in Daytona Beach and they were as always excellent with service and sales. The new tires are great too - was fun driving home on the new rubber! ;)

I like the setup where you can watch the tire installers go about their work. I was surprised how they were all so young - and said as much out loud. One of the front desk guys overheard me and replied back "It's a young man's game!" I thought that was cool. The fella who brought my car out was only 21. Very polite and very good at what they do. Stuff like this is endearing to me.

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I ordered a .490 and .495 reamers for ****s and grins (plus new 1/2” bits). I read about the speed and although my drill press has five pulleys, I’m not sure what the slowest rpm speed is.



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A930Rocket, Looking at those pulleys likely the smallest on the motor and largest on the drill will give about 10:1 ratio, check what the motor speed is likely 1750rpm, if so that should get you to about 175RPM. Using a reamer with cutting oil on it approximate feed rate should take you about 15 seconds to get through your hub. You want to keep the tool cutting forward, or pull it out don't let it sit in the bore while rotating. A reamer should cut very close to size.

^^^ Will do. I already moved the belt to the setting you mentioned. Today, I set up a jig, to make it easier to drill/ream the holes, hopefully,…

I’ll have to make a new one for the front hubs when they arrive.



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Heater core replacement. If it ever leaks again, I bypass it. SmileWavy

Looks like Armageddon ..:(

Been there, done that, I have the tiny yet elusive squeak in the dash that I've been chasing ever since.

RPMs are 1740 on the motor.

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Do you have cutting oil?

I have motor oil…😂

I do need to get cutting oil though.

What I would like to get is some kind of 3/4” flat cutter, instead of using my die grinder to level off the backside of the flange, so the heads sits flat.

Picked up the cutting oil today and between it and the reamer, it worked great.

I was thinking of using a flat cutter to make the backside flat for the head of the stud, but now I’m thinking of maybe welding up the low side, then using a flat cutter. This way I’m not taking away any material.

Golf Mat
 

Had a little project yesterday.
Last week I was able to pickup a Fiberbuilt Manufacturing golf hitting strip and stance mat. I needed to make a frame that I could move around so I could still park the Duramax truck inside.
Measured the height difference between the mat and the hitting strip and picked up a sheet of 3/8 and 5/8 pressure treated plywood.
I had the supplier do the initial cuts to size as my little table saw struggles (read that I struggle) to cut full sheets.
Dragged my little table saw out of the shed and finished the framing for the hitting strip and the stance mat.
The pressure treated plywood always seems to be incredibly wet so I will let it dry out for a while before I try to paint the framing.
It will do some time outside in the more golf friendly weather.
The net is a relatively inexpensive one I thought I would try out and so far it seems to keep me from denting the garage door.

I started back to golf 3 years ago after not playing for over 25 years. Took some lessons in the off season last winter and felt like I needed something like this to get the time to make the lessons stick. Will see how it works out this off season.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1733674371.jpg
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Paid a guy $500 to to hang, tape and finish the drywall in the laundry room. I primed it yesterday. Flooring is next. Happy wife = happy life. ;)

Dropped the engine yesterday.
It's been a few years, but it came back to me.
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Finished the first hub. What’s causing the chatter with the flat cutter on the backside? I used lots of cutting fluid. The RPM’s were as low as I could go. Maybe it needs higher RPM’s? Of course, I only have a drill press, no CNC machine.

I’ll probably go with the .4995 reamer on the next one. I used the .4990 on this one.

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Nice. The lift had to make it so much easier. I’ve always done it on jack stands but could still do it in two hours…. Too much practice!

Are you using a counterbore tool to surface the flats? A 4 flute end mill can work quite well in a pinch. Chatter is usually from lack of rigidity but changing the tool geometry can sometimes help. Lower RPM would likely be better.

Without knowing what material that hub is I would not weld it at all, the flat section does not have to be 100%

I’m using a 4 flute end mill. At least, I think that’s what I’ve got.

On the next one, I need to make sure the part is firmly in place, before trying again.

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^^^ That's a job for a better machine, a mill, not a drill press.

Do you have anyone local that could do it for you? I think you're bound to end up with a poor result.

Show us the bottom side...I think you need a spacer plate, even mdf will be a huge improvement over a 2x4.

Yes, that is what you have. If you want to try to modify the end mill, do you have a bench grinder or hand grinder and steady hands? If you flatten the leading cutting surface so make it closer to 90 deg that should help, only needs the first .005"-.010" of the edge, just helps keep it from biting into the work. The same grind is used to modify tools for soft materials and plastic to keep the bit from cork screwing into the part.

I’m sure there’s somebody local, but I enjoy doing this.

While it may not look pretty, will it work and is it safe? I deburred the edge.

I might be able to fab up something else, but using the 2 x 8 with a snug hole, allows me to rotate it. I also drilled a hole, that I put a pin into, to stabilize the work. I’ll see what I have to actually clamp the hub down as well. The reaming and counter sinking processes worked great.



908/930… are you saying grind the flat part of the cutter so that the cutting edge is smaller? I’ve got a bench grinder that could do it. But for 20 holes, I’m not sure I want to booger up a $60 bit.

A930Rocket, Search tool RAKE, right now that cutter has positive rake ( the surface that the chip flows over) what I am suggesting is neutral rake ( basically flat front) negative rake also can be used. $60 for that, more then I was thinking. If you are only using it for counterboring a small grind should not hurt it much, just make sure you grind the right area. The end mill flutes are long lots of practice grinds available. Try grinding a small flat or negative rake on one of your old 1/2 drill bits and see what it cuts like in steel.

Could have started a machining thread.

Just gave a Singer a tuneup, fixing it for my daughter for Christmas. Got real lucky and got a really nice machine off the Goodwill site, local too so I didn't have to risk nor pay for shipping as I could pick it up myself.
It won't be cheap to ship back to Virginia but it'll be worth it.
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I don't think you'll hurt yourself, I just want to be sure the milled face is perpendicular to the surface. I just think you need a better back-up board.

Does the chattering matter? Not really.

Is this a Featherlight?

No, but it is a Featherweight.

I was close. lol
My wife collects these things.
That's a pricey one.

I can't believe how lucky I got with this one.
First, it was on the GW site on the day our daughter called saying that's what she wanted for Christmas. Second, it was local here in Orange County so I could go get it (<5 miles away), third, it's in super shape as well as the case. It rivals my wife's machine which was her grandmother's machine and she's had for forever.
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Can't really tell them apart can you?
I think this is an heirloom worthy machine. It runs super quiet too.

I wonder if my wife lied about how much she paid like I do with car and fishing stuff.
What are these going for in your area?

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Oct 1953 build date.
Case is really nice as it has the bracket in the lid to hold the foot controller.
edit - I paid less than $600 for this but will have a little over $650 in it by the time it's ready to ship back east.
I put an LED light in it, new belt, new feet on the machine, the foot controller feet were good to go as is, lubed it up and oiled it, new felt drip pad too.
Based on what I've seen on the GW site and on the Featherweight site, I'd value this at $1200 easily now.

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Case has this cool floral pattern fabric lining it that's in perfect shape.

Any issues with the wires degrading?

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None that I'm aware of.
The foot controller wires are like new, nice and flexible, soft, the worst thing is the stress relief rubber is broke right at the point it enters the controller but I don't consider that a problem really.

Case latches cleaned up with some Scotch pad and steel wool application.
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Like I said, I got very lucky with this one, couldn't ask for a better machine to send to my daughter.

Maybe we need a 'Sewing Machine Value' thread.

I have a couple of Singers and a Spartan to get rid of.

We should.
They are rarely worth more that $100 unless it's a Featherweight.


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^^^What Rod said, but, the 301 machines are coming up in value too. A little bigger, heavier, but come in a case that is suitcase like and I think basically have the same 'guts' as a Featherweight.
I wanted to 'collect' some Featherweights and clean them up for the girls in our family but the wife said 'NO' as it would intrude on her storage space for her computer driven machines.

That’s what my mom’s looks like, but my dad fastened the foot pedal to the side of the machine, and my mom could operate it with her knee. I’m guessing my sister has it now.

After my Mom's funeral, her 4 sons met at her house and her old sewing machine (a Singer from the 60's) went back to Virginia with my oldest brother for his daughter (my niece).

I was glad to see it stay in the family.

No one wanted the Grandfather clock so it's coming to my home.

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