There are no holes on my pulley or fan that are compatible with that wrench.

It was 95% off at that point. The shaft was flush w the fan when I switched to that.


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No offense but if you could avoid using cuss words it would be better for those who want to share with the younger audiences.

I realize times have changed since I was young and even on ESPN the other night Lance started off with about 20 F-bombs, but I'm old school and it's hard to accept that cussing is now part of our everyday vocabulary.

Other than that - excellent concept and execution and kudos to you - thanks for sharing!

I bleeped it out, but yeah at that point I was pretty frustrated


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Quick update! Everything is now off at the powdercoaters/platers, so I'll be focusing on actual engine stuff from this point forward.

Not a fan of that mod, considering it holds the engine in the car. The aftermarket ones may be made of stronger material

Good video and music not too loud.

I had to chuckle seeing the alternator removal. It brought back found memories trying to remove the alternator from the fan. I was ready to bust it in a million pieces trying to separate them, when it finally came out.

Great music in the engine bar episode. I really like that you use the feedback from this thread to improve the product.

@ Sugarwood: I have read people using bars like this without issue on street cars, so .... that's what I'm doing. If it flexs too much I guess I can always plop $225 on a rennline one or get someone to weld some more material to this, but I am without a welder right now. We will see!

@A930&Z00: Thanks guys! Your feedback has been invaluable. I'm mastering the audio with my speakers turned up a lot more to get the music/voice ratio better tuned. And yeah, that fan removal sucked.

Can't wait for all my parts to come back from the powdercoater. :B

Haven't updated this thread in a few episodes:

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This last video is a doozie.... 17 minutes long, complete beast to edit.

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I missed these before - Nice job. Just watched them all back-to-back.

There may be some value in pressure testing the airbox before assembly onto the engine. Might be a cool video. There are several ways to do this but I would think Gorilla tape, an airhose with 5-10 psi and submerging the box in a tub of water would do the trick.

It is pretty important to eliminate false air from entering below the throttle plate. Our resident pressure testing guru, boyt911sc does the submerging test.

I would take the flywheel off and inspect the seal for leaks, and probably change the pilot bearing. Spin the throwout bearing to see if it spins smoothly or not.

KNS: Awesome! Glad you enjoyed! LMK if you want to see something in more detail.

Bob: Great idea. Submerging might be fun. Will I need to remove any electronics?

Rusnak: Is there a good link on clutch info anywhere? Honestly didn't have any issues with it and was scared off by high prices... but I should probably see how much friction material I have left since it's this far apart.

well, tore into the clutch and swapped out the flywheel seal:

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90Mxo1lbFqA

Disassembled the pressure plate/friction disc/flywheel to get to it... anybody have any thoughts on reusing this stuff? I go over it in pretty good detail. Would appreciate any advice!

There are some questions to ask before you shell out the money. How long do you plan on keeping the car and how much will you drive it? Unless you hope to not R &R the motor again and the answers to the questions are long and lots, it's good measure to replace consumable parts at this time.

Some say the flywheel can be resurfaced and some not, so here's a story to consider:

I had an Andial rebuilt engine in a '77 Targa and one of the heads off a flywheel snapped off about 18 months after the rebuild. Andial took no responsibility so I paid for parts and labor for a whole new flywheel, PP and disc because the bolt head wedged itself in there and tore up a lot.

That engine was so well balanced beforehand you couldn't tell it was running except by sound. After the new flywheel (which I'm sure was independently balanced) was installed the thing vibrated enough to know the difference. So, if you can perceive additional drilled spots on the flywheel you might assume the flywheel is balanced to that crank ass'y and look into having it lightly precision resurfaced. You take the new PP and disc as they are and hope for the best.

However, if you indexed the position of the old PP, you might be able to learn something from it using a balancing fixture.

Anyways replace clutch and flywheel.
You'll get some of the money back in resale

I didn't index it when removing.... I could be wrong, but that wasn't in Wayne's book, I think because they were going to tear the engine all the way down. Wish I had known that.

Okay dudes. My LONGEST VIDEO EVER. I've been avoiding this part, because I really really really wasn't looking forward to cleaning all the silicone schmutzed all over the place, but I finally attacked the installation of RSR rocker seals.

This is a SUPER detailed video that goes through exactly what you need to do to install RSR seals, how to install the rocker shafts, and all the tricks/tips from pushing the old ones out, even to details like how to put the seals on the shafts quickly/easily.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4naYgSxDko

As always, feedback is appreciated. I've never built one of these engines before so I'm learning a ton as I go.

This was an amazing video. I'm learning more from your videos than I've learned in 6 years of reading words on this forum.

Scary to get the socket stuck in a weird place like that.

So, the cam had tension on some of the rockers and valves, and its best to rotate the cam to alternate what has tension on it? Is that why your socket got stuck on the tight rocker? Nice explicit explanation later on, about the bumpy part of the cam creating pressure.

I wonder if stubby hex sockets would have worked for you. With a low profile ratchet.
These are good if you're looking for more tools.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-3646-8-Inch-Stubby-6-Point/dp/B006JVU1ZI

I don't understand how you could invert the inside/outside of the seal. It only goes on one way unless you twist and kink it like a mobius strip, which would be obvious

How did your rocker shafts not have seals when you removed them? I only saw empty grooves. How does it come from the factory?

What a strange way of securing the rocker shaft. Is the metal that soft that it expands when you tighten the beveled bolt?

Loved the trouble you ran into getting that middle rocker in place. Which side to install it from.
Also hate when the book seems so damn wrong and impossible.
What may feel like "dead" footage to you was actually the most engaging part for the viewer,
Tension and resolution.

Stomach sank when you showed the mangled hex bolt.

"Does it look flush?" Use a flashlight so viewer can see better.

Great video