Air Conditioner compressor clutch replacement

[herr_oberst]

I see from a previous thread that we have some pretty savvy AC guys on this board!
Has anyone ever successfully replaced the clutch on the AC compressor? This is my Toyota pickup.
It would be way easier and sure is lots cheaper.
Is it better to just bite the bullet and get a new compressor, get a new dryer and start fresh?
The AC still blows cold, but from what I'm reading, a bad clutch can actually ruin the compressor due to high heat.

[1990C4S]

Several.

The trick is to buy a used compressor with a GOOD coil. Figure out how to remove the clutch, then go pull yours from the car.

I find the hardest part is usually getting a snap ring off without pulling the compressor out. So far I've been successful.

You should also look at shimming your clutch. I've never had to do it, but sometimes they wear and need a shim from what I've read.

YouTube is your friend. Not fun laying on your back doing a Jetta, but very rewarding to drive home with AC.

[hcoles]

Getting a new complete compressor might be your chance to kill two birds:
- new clutch
- new compressor considering yours fairly well used up. Yes you might get 30k more miles out of your existing compressor but is it worth the risk of black death?
A quick look on the internet turns up a compressor is ~$200.
Of course getting the system evacuated and properly refilled will cost something.

[Arizona_928]

I've done one on a Toyota camry.
Pulled the compressor from the mount and left the hoses intact. Wasn't too bad.

[asphaltgambler]

If I understand the OP, it is working fine now - why would you want to replace the clutch assy?

[stomachmonkey]

Is this not unlike asking if one should replace the throw out bearing while doing a clutch job or a water pump while doing a timing belt?

As previously noted above, the clutch and compressor will almost certainly have wear patterns unique to the pairing.

Why do the work twice and spend more money?

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by asphaltgambler

If I understand the OP, it is working fine now - why would you want to replace the clutch assy?

The compressor is working fine, AC blows cold, but the clutch rattles when it cycles on. I can replace the clutch easy enough without replacing the whole compressor (and evacuating and refilling the freon). Or, should I bite the bullet because of problems that occur with new clutch old compressor.

[Arizona_928]

I think the real question is parts availability and price.

[rusnak]

I don't even buy rebuilt compressors anymore. It's just so much better working with new parts, assuming that you can get them. A new compressor, clutch, condenser, and receiver dryer each time the compressor needs changing. The condenser can of course be flushed, but they also fail and can start leaking. Unless it's for a G-series 911, or a 7.4 liter GMC truck, you're better off replacing with new factory parts. This is after doing this drill many times and finding that new stuff just works a lot better.

[Arizona_928]

Originally Posted by stomachmonkey

Is this not unlike asking if one should replace the throw out bearing while doing a clutch job or a water pump while doing a timing belt?

As previously noted above, the clutch and compressor will almost certainly have wear patterns unique to the pairing.

Why do the work twice and spend more money?

Throw out bearing and timing belt driven water pumps are a heck of a lot more involved. If the op can get a name brand clutch from rock auto. I would spend the couple hours replacing it.


It's like the alternator clutch on the alh tdi. Yeah you could replace the whole thing or you could just spend a couple hours and motor on.

[Nostril Cheese]

pretty easy to do assuming the clutch is available.

[Rawknees'Turbo]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

The compressor is working fine, AC blows cold, but the clutch rattles when it cycles on. I can replace the clutch easy enough without replacing the whole compressor (and evacuating and refilling the freon). Or, should I bite the bullet because of problems that occur with new clutch old compressor.

That could mean that all that needs replacing is the clutch hub bearing - you could remove the clutch, remove the bearing (if it appears bad/notchy feeling while spinning it) and take it to a bearing supply place to find a replacement. I did that a while back with the original clutch and compressor on a 1990 Infiniti - fairly easy. This is assuming that the clutch on your compressor has a replaceable bearing, of course.

[mattdavis11]

If I knew what year/model Toyota, I would know what Denso it has on it and we could go from there. My Landcruiser compressor rattled, it was the clutch damper (rubber center was shot). I had a spare laying around and just replaced the outer friction plate and shimmed it appropriately. Usually with older compressors, you simply remove a shim. Should be an 8mm bolt, you can leave the belt and compressor on, make sure to hold the outer part of the clutch still while you back the bolt out. It should be locktited in, so a ratchet, 8mm (might be 10) a pair of channel locks, and a hammer to whack the ratchet may get it off. If you have a way to get anything impact in there, that would be the ticket.

Depending on what compressor/coil it has, I have a few used Denso clutches in the garage. They are off of the 10P15E series. I know they fit later 944's, and also 911 from the 80's early 90's, but not sure what else.

I love tearing compressors apart.

[herr_oberst]

Matt, thanks for the response. The pickup is a '92 4WD regular cab with the 22RE motor.

[mattdavis11]

Alright, in 1990-1992 they were in the middle of a change from the 10PA15C to the 10PA17C. My 91 LandCruiser has a 10PA17C, my brothers 90 LC has a 10PA15C, same motor, different body style.

Look at the side of body of the compressor, if you you see a 15, it's a 10PA15C, if you see a 17, well you get it. It's raised, not a sticker. I bet it's a 10PA15C.

I'd inspect the rubber damper (center part) of the outer friction plate. If good and not cracked or disintegrated, remove 1 of the possible 2 shims. The air gap should be about the thickness of a business card.

I have what you need minus your pulley, nose bearing too. Those compressors rarely go bad internally. I would not replace it under any circumstances. Those 2 aforementioned were some of the best ever made. Denso quality today isn't what it was, just like everything else.

[1990C4S]

I would look on Craigslist for a used compressor. Use that as your starting point. I have bought them for $30 and then just used the clutch.

Gives you a chance to figure out how to tear it down and replace the bearing.

[herr_oberst]

Thanks again, Matt. Great information. This is why I love this place. I'll put my eyeballs on it later this morning to see if this is my lucky day.

You say the bolt is loctited on - I'm assuming they use the blue? I have a couple of rattle guns - hopefully there is space to bark that bolt off using technology!

(I know theres plenty of space to get a wrench on it. Heck, I don't even have to jack the truck up. It's 4WD, plenty of access.)

[mattdavis11]

The bolt is somewhat difficult to remove, it won't back out easily. With an impact, it's easy, no need to hold anything still. Don't impact the bolt back on though. Usually I find a white substance on the threads, it's some sort of locktite. I have a full 10PA15C, it has a shaft seal leak, but the coil, clutch, bearing are all in good shape. I have to take it a part at some point to fix the shaft seal. You are welcome to what ever you need if you need it.

[herr_oberst]

It's a 10PA15C. Came apart easily enough. That's the good news.

The prognosis is bad. The bearing has seized and wallered the shaft. There's now a lip on the shaft that has captured the pulley. (Yes, the circlip's been removed. )

Matt, it looks like I need a new compressor. Are there people out there who rebuild the early ones or am I destined to install the modern (cruddier) version of the classic?

Again, thanks for your input.

[Arizona_928]

Sleeve it