Chevy S10 with a V8 - would you buy ?

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by LJ851

I was suggesting the casting number in the oil pan could be googled to identify what engine it came on to figure out the correct oil filter. Look below the oil level sensor.

That being said, not all gen 3 LS have cable throttles. 2004 and newer Silverados used drive by wire. You can mix and match quite a bit as long as the reluctor wheel on the crank is the same. Earlier LS have 24 teeth and later have 58 teeth.

My LS3 crate engine for my Camaro came with the PF48 oil filter on it. If that filter screws on to your oil pan I can’t imagine that it wouldn’t work just fine.

Hmm your comment about " mix and match " got me thinking . Is it possible my engine is a 2005 but has a later model oil pan ? That could explain the oil filter having metric threads .

[LJ851]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Hmm your comment about " mix and match " got me thinking . Is it possible my engine is a 2005 but has a later model oil pan ? That could explain the oil filter having metric threads .

The threaded bung on the oil pan will be either 13/16-16 or 22mmx1.5 so you should easily be able to verify which filter is correct while you are doing the oil change. All the other fasteners on the LS engines are metric as well.




..

[rfuerst911sc]

[QUOTE=LJ851;12270237]The threaded bung on the oil pan will be either 13/16-16 or 22mmx1.5 so you should easily be able to verify which filter is correct while you are doing the oil change. All the other fasteners on the LS engines are metric as well.

The oil filter currently installed is a Fram PH10060 which online specs say 22mm x 1.5mm threads . Assuming a 13/16 - 16 won't fit . So my plan is to buy a AC Delco PF48/PF63 or Wix 57060/57045 . So I think I have the oil filter nailed down . But I still want to figure out what year the engine is . I will get there .

[Steve Carlton]

[1990C4S]

I would be pissed off if the seller misrepresented what he did. Even if the car is fine, you shouldn't have to go sleuthing to figure out what engine you have.

[creaturecat]

doesn’t the stinkin’ Fram have a part number on it? that would narrow it down.

[oldE]

Originally Posted by creaturecat

doesn’t the stinkin’ Fram have a part number on it? that would narrow it down.

Previous page: o/p stated the Fram filter is a PH10060.

Best
Les

[rfuerst911sc]

OK today I decided to do an oil and filter change to get my baseline . I cross referenced the Fram filter and decided to try a AC Delco PF48 . It fit perfect and there is plenty of room to go with the longer PF63 or Wix equivalent . So I have confirmed the oil filter is a 22mm x 1.5mm .

While I had it on the lift I studied the underside looking for any part numbers . The only part number I found was on the oil pan .... 12614822 which is an H3 oil pan . Apparently lots of hot Rodders use this pan when installing LS/Vortec engines in a variety of GM products .

Unfortunately I still don't know what model year engine I have . I will have to study the topside for any markings . To be clear the guy I bought the truck from did NOT do the conversion . He bought it from the guy that had it done .

The rear diff housing has 4.10 written on it with a paint pen so I assume a 4.10 gear ratio . Today from a standstill I got on her hard for the first time . Tires lit up and she was straight as an arrow . Locker ? I only saw one black tire line on the pavement . I will keep unwrapping this onion . I really like this truck .

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by Steve Carlton

That made me chuckle , thanks 👍

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

OK today I decided to do an oil and filter change to get my baseline . I cross referenced the Fram filter and decided to try a AC Delco PF48 . It fit perfect and there is plenty of room to go with the longer PF63 or Wix equivalent . So I have confirmed the oil filter is a 22mm x 1.5mm .

While I had it on the lift I studied the underside looking for any part numbers . The only part number I found was on the oil pan .... 12614822 which is an H3 oil pan . Apparently lots of hot Rodders use this pan when installing LS/Vortec engines in a variety of GM products .

Unfortunately I still don't know what model year engine I have . I will have to study the topside for any markings . To be clear the guy I bought the truck from did NOT do the conversion . He bought it from the guy that had it done .

The rear diff housing has 4.10 written on it with a paint pen so I assume a 4.10 gear ratio . Today from a standstill I got on her hard for the first time . Tires lit up and she was straight as an arrow . Locker ? I only saw one black tire line on the pavement . I will keep unwrapping this onion . I really like this truck .

I would have no worries on the motor. It really makes little difference what year the parts are. If you spun one tire its not a locker. Id keep an eye on marketplace for a locker with highway gears. I paid $75 for my locker and gears were an even swap for my 4.10s. It smoked both tires before I went to 3.23s. Still smokes them both but its better on gas mileage.

[rfuerst911sc]

^^^ Yeah a 3.23 or 3.42 is probably ideal as the engine has plenty of hp/tq. There is a local guy that parts out S10's and he has a rear axle with 3.42 for $100.00 . But no locker . I need to get smarter on what rear end I have so I can look for a locker to fit mine . And a numeric lower gear set .

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

^^^ Yeah a 3.23 or 3.42 is probably ideal as the engine has plenty of hp/tq. There is a local guy that parts out S10's and he has a rear axle with 3.42 for $100.00 . But no locker . I need to get smarter on what rear end I have so I can look for a locker to fit mine . And a numeric lower gear set .

Locker can come from an s10 or other GM with a 7 1/2 or 7 5/8 rear end. Camaro, MonteCarlo or similar cars. Just need the correct series locker for the gears. For example, a locker will fit 3.23 through 4.10 gears but not 2 series gears.

[rfuerst911sc]

^^^ That is useful info . Thank you .

[rfuerst911sc]

Learned something new . When I had her on the lift yesterday I noticed the rear diff cover was not the standard stamped steel . A little internet sleuthing determined I have a " girdle style " cover . From what I have read they help strengthen the rear diff . There are externally adjustable bolts that can be set to place pressure on the bearing caps . Supposedly lowers or eliminates the chance of movement under load .

I have no clue how well it works but it's installed and staying . It also has fill and drain plugs and adds some capacity . Being aluminum it might cool better also .

Similar to this one .
https://www.amazon.com/TA-Performance-TA-1809-Girdle-Cover/dp/B003T285TY/ref=asc_df_B003T285TY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693405651312&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17052736499932040667&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011027&hvtargid=pla-1949645444873&psc=1&mcid=d546ff4da74130269a13fec66ba6b89e&gad_source=1

[rfuerst911sc]

Been internet surfing and found a somewhat local guy that rebuilds axles . He can rebuild my existing rear axle with a 3.42 ratio and locker for $650.00 installed . That includes new bearings and seals . But it keeps the weaker 7.5 rear .

Or he can install a 8.5 rear axle with 3.42 and locker AND rear disc brakes for $850.00 . Also new bearings and seals . Either option has a 120 day warranty . My initial thought is for 200 more go with the 8.5

At the very least I want a 3.23 or 3.42 to help keep the revs down . I don't plan to drag race or beat on her heavy . But every once in a while to heat up the tires is fun . Decisions Decisions

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Been internet surfing and found a somewhat local guy that rebuilds axles . He can rebuild my existing rear axle with a 3.42 ratio and locker for $650.00 installed . That includes new bearings and seals . But it keeps the weaker 7.5 rear .

Or he can install a 8.5 rear axle with 3.42 and locker AND rear disc brakes for $850.00 . Also new bearings and seals . Either option has a 120 day warranty . My initial thought is for 200 more go with the 8.5

At the very least I want a 3.23 or 3.42 to help keep the revs down . I don't plan to drag race or beat on her heavy . But every once in a while to heat up the tires is fun . Decisions Decisions

When I built my truck 6 years ago, I decided to just go with the 7.5 and when it breaks go to an 8.8 from a Ford explorer. Very common and cheap at the Upullit. Nearly a bolt in. The 7.5 never broke.

[rfuerst911sc]

^^^ Good feedback I appreciate it . Yeah I gotta figure there are tons of 7.5's that get beat to crap and still live.

[Scott Douglas]

I'd be going with the disc brake option if it doesn't have them in back already.

[JackDidley]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

^^^ Good feedback I appreciate it . Yeah I gotta figure there are tons of 7.5's that get beat to crap and still live.

The guy I bought my locker from told me one thing. Dont stand on the gas when going around a corner. That will break the locker in a heartbeat. I believe that to be true. My C4 Vette had an 7 5/8 posi and it went 12s in the 1/4 mile 100s 0f times without breaking. It was a clutch type posi and the clutches did wear out after about 100k miles.

[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

When I had her on the lift yesterday I noticed the rear diff cover was not the standard stamped steel........

.........it's installed and staying . It also has fill and drain plugs and adds some capacity . Being aluminum it might cool better also .

I don't know how you feel about Gale Banks, (I think he knows his stuff, that's my opinion). He did a series of YouTube vids where he tested aftermarket covers; in many instances the stock covers did a better job lubricating the ring and pinion. (Of course, his Gale Banks designed aftermarket cover surpassed all of them...but that was to be expected).

My point is going to be, sometimes an aftermarket cover can do more harm than good.

Caveat Emptor and things aren't always what they seem