Big decision to make - fix the 850 or get rid of it HELP!

[M.D. Holloway]

My 1995 Volvo 850 is hitting 100K and the problems are mounting. My ABS / Brake lights come on now, not always - maybe 50% of the time ($800-1000). The EGR sensor has to be replaced ($800) and the all the shocks and struts and everything else associated with that has to be replaced ($2400-2700). All toll I'm most likely looking at about $3500 to $4500 worth of repairs.

OK, should I ditch the b!tch or pour money into and drive it for another 3+ years?

Its a commutor car - it will take me to work and back everyday (about 50 miles RT) and to the University a few times a week (another 50 miles RT). The Targa is in pretty good shape but I don't think she would make for a very good daily driver.

car payments v. mounting repair bills - whats a guy to do?

[M.D. Holloway]

sorry, 1996...subconscience slip, I guess I have lost interest in her!

[Joeaksa]

If its a descent car, you have owned it for a long time and still like it, I always prefer to keep it as opposed to another frigging car payment and possibly a lemon.

First, shocks and struts should not cost that much. Unless I am missing something thats way over normal cost. You could do gas shocks on a 911 for less than $500 so why would it be 5 times that much on a Volvo? Where are you getting these prices? Have you tried Pelican? At one time they sold parts other than Porsche and BMW.

I just went to IPD Volvo and plugged in all the stuff above but the ABS. New Bilstein shocks/struts, and EGR valve, all factory or better quality. If you are being told amounts like those shown above, look at this:

Product Name Number Weight Quantity Price Extended
front sensor for A/T WS15097 0.3000 $195.00 $195.00
front strut (ea) WSAK2301 11.8000 $168.00 $336.00
rear shock (not for AWD) WSB361640* 3.8000 $98.00 $196.00

Current Total: $727.00

If you have a good mechanic, take it to them and tell them that they have a $1500-2000 or whatever limit, and to make it new again. Then spend the $100 or so to have it detailed and you will feel alot better about the car.

My 2c worth. Would rather keep a good known car than take a bet on one that you know nothing about. Volvo's are known to last a long time and if kept in good shape are worth saving.

JoeA

PS, like Les below, I have a 1991 Honda that is my daily driver. 222k miles on it and its not slowing. Paid off years ago I beat it up instead of my nice cars and stick the money saved into the nice cars.

[oldE]

I agree with Joe. But then, I'm driving a 13 year-old VW with 371,000Km. Look after it & screw the car payments. Spend the balance on Porsches!
Les

[jyl]

I too agree with Joe. Do some of the work yourself, doesn't have to be all, cut the bill down to $2000 or so, and keep the car.

[onewhippedpuppy]

Even if it's $3500-$4000, could you take that money and buy a car you like better? If no, which I would think it is, then fix it. Like they said, you could do some yourself to save, or just find a good independent wrench and probably cut that in half. Car payments suck, that's why I drive a BMW with 136k on it. Still going strong!

[adamred]

I just went through the same thing with my 1995 Volvo 850, I kept fixing until I just couldn't take it anymore...My last fix was the ABS pump which new would have cost $1500 for the part alone, thankfully we sourced a used part and it worked well, still was close to $900 with labor....
I started to truly hate the car and that's when I knew it was time to move on....sold it for $2000 and the new owner hasn't had a problem with it yet....

[89911]

I had an 850 turbo that I bailed on at 100k. The car still ran fine, but you could tell the suspension and steering has play in them and it was feeling loose. Volvo service was close to Porsche for cost also. Sure you can keep driving it for another 100k, but It was time to trade it in. Which brings me to an observation: Don't you think most Volvo drivers simply just hold onto their car forever because their cheap (ok, careful with their money)? It seems if you have a Volvo, you have a license to have a car that can be cosmetically a wreck and still get away with it because it runs ok. If you have a honda civic that has 150k on it, then you drive a beater.

[M.D. Holloway]

Excellent points all!

I guess if I take it bit by bit it would be possible:
1) Fix brakes – not sure what the real gig is, but I do know the rear rotors will need replacing. The ABS / Tracs lite comes on from time to time, not sure if the fluid is off or it is an indication of rear wear.
2) Fix Shocks/Struts/et.al. – I was told by a few different folks that I will need to replace the ball joints and arms as well. Two quotes came in at $2000+. I look into doing the work my self but it is beyond me – requires a special spring compressor and a lift.
3) Fix Sensor – it’s for the egr and I have been driving with it out for 4+ years now. I just think it would be a good thing to fix but not a requirement. Three quotes all came in at $700 to $900.

Oh ya, I snapped the antenna off by accident (I can do this for $30) and the odometer quit today – that means a new gear and getting behind the IP - $200-$300!

It would be cheaper than car payments and added insurance costs.

[kaisen]

If you own an old car, you have car payments: you just don't know how much they are or when they're coming!

If you sink $4000 into your Volvo, that's no guarantee that the transmission won't break in 2 months or 10 months.

Sell your Volvo while it still runs and drives. Because it says Volvo on the back, some car-ignorant granola hippie-type will buy it for $3000.

You could lease a new small car (Saturn ION, Toyota/Scion, Civic, Mazda 3) for about $0 down $200/mo and don't look back. My younger sister, who just graduated nursing school, leased a new 2005 Saturn ION 2 5spd sedan this summer. It has all the power stuff, alloys, spoiler, power moonroof, and CD changer. She has a 36 month/ 45,000 mile lease. With $0 down her payment was under $100/mo including WI tax, title, and lic.! The deal was so good that my mom went in a couple days later and leased one with an automatic for $125/mo.

And you'd have $3000 from selling the Volvo and $4000 from not fixing it - $7000 you could put toward the 911 and/or to draw from to pay the lease.

Just my $.02

E

[TerryBPP]

Sell it and daily drive the Bug!

[adamred]

I totally agree with E, don't forget about the trans on these cars, they do go bad and man are they expensive...My spidey senses were telling me that was going to be my next issue and rather then having to then try an sell a non-functioning car I dumped it then...

[TerryBPP]

BTW: Kelly has a 1998 740 w/ 80k miles on it. In the last year it been in the shop 5 times for sensors. It has a 100k warranty thank god but I think I'm going to trade it in on a new SUV for her. Thinking of a X5 or VW Tursomethingorother. Just gotta get through the holidays.

[M.D. Holloway]

OK, now you got me thinking...thats bad cuz I don't like to think. $3000 in and whose to say the tranny won't drop? This whole thing is given me a rash!

[Serge914]

Sorry to tell you that but my 96 850 just passed 270,000Km and I only did a few oil changes and tune-up on it in the last 12 months. New front struts costed me around $800 last year and I did the rear myself, it is quite an easy job. Honestly I wouldn't spend $4K on a car that will only worth $8k after

You should find a shop that specialize in Volvo repairs, forget about the dealers. Look like I a lucky that mine has a manual transmission.

Good luck

[84porsche]

While you know the older car, if you think its going to go, get out now while you can come out ahead. However if you drive 50 miles everyday including weekends, you will go over lease mileage so keep that as a factor.
I thought for sure when I bought my daily driver that I would go over the mileage but the 911 started to feel more reliable to me and I have done under 10,000 a year which makes me wish I would have saved some money and leased. However, insurance on a new car kills especially if your 25 or under.
I am going with sell the Volvo while you can and get something newer. Factor your time in and smog costs in as well and the newer car begins to sound really good.

[jorian]

I have the 850 T5 and recently changed the sway bar drop links in front which cleared up some of the shock/strut issues that the stealership wanted to replace. My car has over 170K miles.

[island911]

Originally posted by kaisen
. .. Because it says Volvo on the back, some car-ignorant granola hippie-type will buy it for $3000. .. .
Just my $.02

E

HA! He's in TEXAS, not the PNW.

Mike, the ABS is likely a faulty sensor on one of the wheels. (they just count clicks)

If you could possibly manage the extremely unsafe idea of driving a car w/o ABS (Gasp - I know) . . . you could just pull the fuse to the ABS.

[fintstone]

Trade it in if you can afford to. The dealers are desperate this time of year. It is bad enough to go "upside down" in a classic Porsche,,,but not a Volvo family car. LOL...the gold plated Volvo! Buy a Toyota for reliability and mileage if you have that far to commute.

[chuckw951]

Originally posted by kaisen
If you own an old car, you have car payments: you just don't know how much they are or when they're coming!

That's an interesting way to look at it. Flip side is some months you don't have any payment, if you have a reliable old car.