Blades cont.
 

Ruben looks happy with the results while scrutinizing the last piece.
They do look very nice.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388692529.jpg

Here are five of the six pieces done and ready to begin fitment.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388692618.jpg

Back home and stacked neatly on the Living Room Floor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388692651.jpg

We are mig-tacking them together today after matching them together.
When complete, they will go to Van Nuys Plating to be Cadmium Plated to prevent rust.

I actually found the bill of sale in a pile of old car papers while I was moving a file cabinet a couple months ago. I put 2 and 2 together and realized that you are the guy with that 911. In fact I remember you showing it to me back then. I wanted to contact you, but didn't want to just call up out of the blue (BofS had a phone #) and then a saw the link to this thread in my e-mail.
You paid $550 for the car according to the BofS, but it's not dated so I don't know how long ago it was, seems like a while though.
Looking forward to seeing some pics.
Jon
P.S. This is what I am mostly working on now.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388767520.jpg

Type 34
 

Yes, that's right, $550.00. It was around the year 2000 or 2001. I will look for the type 34 folder with all it's info and get back on that. It has been a project waiting to be finished. I got the rust converter in the mail just two minutes ago. It will fix the floor. Then I can proceed. Modifying the roll bar at the moment. Shortened it and changed from an X brace to regular lay backs. With an abundance of projects, it does take time to get to everything, but I do eventually address them.
Thanks for your message Jon.
Regards,
Chris Banning

Blades cont.
 

Yesterday I tack welded the pieces together with the Mig Welder.
The fit is critical and requires some patience while aligning the pieces.
No filing or extra cutting was needed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388772566.jpg

Even with just the tacks in, each piece became much stronger and unified.
This design appears to be stiff enough to take strong wind velocity.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388772643.jpg

The three blades are now formed and look beautiful.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388772696.jpg

Wow, so uniform they neatly stack perfectly together.
I love this kind of work.

Blades cont.
 

Here they are stacked together.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388773061.jpg

Clock Project.
 

Due to the cold in early December, I began my clock project indoors.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388773764.jpg

I always wanted a Tubular Chime Grandfather Clock so after some time looking at all the options I bought this Brookwood model utilizing a Franz Hermle & Sohn German movement.
Some of the best clock kits come from this company, Klockit - The World's Leading Clock Parts and Clock Movements Supplier for Over 40 Years

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774005.jpg

After assembling the sides and front I was ready to make the base.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774079.jpg

The base was made the same way the whole clock goes together, using clamps and wood glue.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774138.jpg

Then the base went neatly into the main frame.
The base has levelers to make sure the clock stands upright at 90 degrees to the floor. I set them in on the bottom.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774189.jpg

Clock cont.
 

Then the trim needed to be applied.
Using glue and clamps the trim is also fastened with small screws from the back.
You can see small wood pieces used to protect the Red Oak from marring from the steel clamps.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774566.jpg

Then the right side was completed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774718.jpg

Here it is with the top crown moulding installed.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774782.jpg

The Clock is now basically assembled.
Time to decide on what color to stain the wood.
I bought nine different colors from different brands and tested them on scraps that are the same wood as the clock has.
Here are the best five. Black Cherry on top, Teak and Rosewood on the bottom, and Early American and Light Walnut on the left and right respectively.

I'm leaning toward the Rosewood.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1388774909.jpg

Automobile Magazine article
 

Thank you Michael, for adding your talents to the history..
The Ghosts On Mulholland Drive

Mulholland Drive
 

Nicely done article, thanks for posting.
Here is an excerpt:

When Mark Mitchell and John Norris came to Mulholland in the early 1970s, they were just high-school kids. Mitchell used to sneak out at night in his mother's '72 Ford Gran Torino station wagon, while Norris took his first drives in a Volkswagen Beetle before moving up to a Ford Capri. Mitchell remembers doing some wild things -- "Chariot rides, where we'd stand up on the tailgate of the wagon and hold on to the roof rack while the driver went as fast as he could!" -- yet both he and Norris arrived at a time when professional road racing had become the goal of every sports car enthusiast, and Mulholland represented the first step along the way.

"All I wanted to do was race," Mitchell recalls. "And from Mulholland, I learned that you have to be not just fast with your driving but also consistent, because if you crash, you'll be busted by the cops and your girlfriend will have to bail you out of jail." Norris says, "I learned that you have to be in the right car, and a Pinto wagon is not going to get it done. Also, you learn that driving talent doesn't come with the car, no matter what some people might think."

Type 34
 

Here you go Jon...

Went back to working on the Type 34 and before we can go any further we have to fix the roll bar and the condition of the floor.
Rust can be addressed several ways. You can grind it off, use nasty chemicals, or use a reducing agent like Metal Conditioner. I've tried them all.

I found something from Eastwood that seems to be worth trying.
It's called Rust Converter.

Rust Converter stops residual rust, and turns it into a black, protective, ready-to-paint coating, without sanding Eastwood's own high-tech formula converts rust into a protective polymeric coating that's ready to go as a primer, and is compatible with most top coats. That new protective coating will also seal the surface against moisture to prevent future rust growth.
Just apply to transform the rust
Penetrates faster than other brands
No mixing needed
Eastwood Rust Converter | Rust Converters | Auto Rust Converter

The Rust Converter arrived two weeks ago.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390084970.jpg


The floor of the Type 34 is quite rusty. Not exactly a look to inspire hopes for the car. LOL
After gentle sanding with 60 grit and vacuuming up all dust we are ready for the test.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390085014.jpg


The Rust Converter is white in color but when applied to the floor it turned purple. Where it was very rusty, it bubbled purple. Neat!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390085048.jpg


Already a big difference is evident in how it looks.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390085100.jpg


Both sides done and it looks good. Even here where the rust is pitted and scaled, it made a big difference.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390085168.jpg

Type 34
 

Here is how it looks on the passenger side fully coated but not dry.
The instructions say that the surface will turn black in about half an hour.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390086082.jpg


Both sides are done and you can see that the first side that was coated is turning black slowly.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390086186.jpg


Here it is after an hour and a half, both sides are black like the can said.
Note the condition of the roll bar, man that would take a lot of sanding to prep.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390086265.jpg


What the heck, might as well do the roll bars as well.
Light sanding and vac and we are ready. Here is the first coat. All surfaces get two coats.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390086393.jpg


Eastwood advises that you coat the Converter with Encapsulator.

Stop rust in its tracks! Our Rust Encapsulator has been reformulated with TWICE the corrosion resistance!

You thought it was good before...wait ’til you try this Rust Encapsulator! It seals and stops rust and corrosion from spreading, but it performs even better than our original formula. Tested against well-known brands, the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator has proven to be superior in sunlight resistance, preventing rust creep, and overall durability.


Twice the corrosion resistance of our original formula for greater durability (tested to 500 hours in a salt-spray chamber)
Epoxy-fortified for better adhesion and topcoat compatibility
Penetrates deeper to prevent rust from spreading or forming, even in hard-to-reach areas
Cures faster, and the low-VOC formula is acceptable in California
http://www.eastwood.com/rust-encapsulator-28601.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390086462.jpg

Type 34 Roll Bar
 

First the back bars had to be miter cut to match up with the mounts on the fender wells.
Somewhat tricky doing by hand with a skill saw using a metal cutting blade.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087438.jpg


Using the cutting torch I bird-mouth'd the receiving end that goes towards the main hoop.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087517.jpg


You can see how the bird-mouthing surrounds the main hoop pipe.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087586.jpg


Other side done and just mig-tacked together. I will heavy arc later with 6013 arc rod.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087638.jpg


Wow, looks like this just might be a really fun unusual car to drive.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087687.jpg

Here you can see how much better the roll bar looks after I cut and lowered it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087978.jpg


The back bars look even, balanced, and much improved from the criss-cross type I cut out.
Plus now you can see behind you out of the rear view mirror. Cool.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390087996.jpg


Here is a view from the inside.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390088017.jpg


Wow, look at that floor now. Almost don't believe it's the same floor.
I guess the Eastwood Rust Converter is an acceptable product after all. I was skeptical...but no longer.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390088037.jpg

Not much Mulholland content, but a thread I think some of you might get a kick out of. Some great historical pics of L.A.: Historical Los Angeles - SkyscraperCity

Love those historical photos, thanks for posting.
That last house on Bunker Hill...alone...a remembrance of a golden time.
The Valley photos of so long ago, almost unbelievable.
And the construction of so many recognizable buildings.

Wish I had a time machine. Next project, lol.

When you get that time machine done, let me know. I wanna watch those mofo's build the pyramids… :)

Old Rocks
 

Funny you should say that...seeing how the Great Pyramid was constructed is one of my fascinations. I have studied The Giza Plateau for many years thru books and courses and learned much. I've never been to see the area but some interesting facts have come to light, for example I am convinced that the Great Sphinx is from a much earlier period and pre-dates all other structures. Perhaps it is all that is left from a interglacial time when Egypt was a cool wet savannah. It is quite fascinating.

On another note, Bruce K. sent me a link to a cool Ferrari Street Racer. Not Porsche, but a similar project to what we do here.

Ferrari P4/P5 Competizione Build | The Car Build Index

Type 34
 

There are some holes in the body for heater tubes, wiring, venting and the like.
Small rodents just love to find those holes and use them for traveling.
Had to soak the car in Buckets of Bleach recently. Now we need to cover those holes.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390925400.jpg

Same procedure, make a cardboard pattern, and replicate in Aluminum.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390925545.jpg

Here is a completed one, need two for the front. Can use aluminum tape for the small round heater ducts, also in photo.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390925599.jpg

Using a pop-riveter, the plates were fastened to the body holes using 4 rivets.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390925666.jpg

When completed, it looked covered and clean. No more little critters coming in here, LOL.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390925755.jpg

Conv cont.
 

Found a couple of old tires in the shed. 235/60-15 tires that will fit on the 8 inch Fuchs.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390926677.jpg

We're now able to move the Targa and see the chassis grounded.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390926694.jpg

After setting the car back down and moving it to the other side of the Garage, the roof moved into place better. Almost ready to make patterns and plates from sheet metal to connect the rest of the roof.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1390926720.jpg

I believe that's one of James Glickenhaus's projects. I know of the car, but that's a nice look at the build.

As for the Great Pyramid, I think Architect Jean-Pierre Houdin has the most plausible theory on how it was built: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ws4O5LOCI68