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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,430
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Enclosing a storage area beneath a deck.
I know you guys are full of great ideas (among other stuff), so I'm hoping someone can offer some advice. I'd like to create a dry, secure (lockable) storage area beneath my deck, so I'm investigating techniques for keeping it dry, maybe something like this:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/home_improvement/1276246.html Also looking for ideas on enclosing the two open sides and they don't necessarily have to be totally enclosed, just so long as the area beneath the deck is "securable". Thanks in advance! Last edited by KFC911; 06-08-2007 at 08:15 AM.. |
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I've often thought of ways to do this. One of my ideas is close to what is shown
Another is to utilize a prefab, expandable plastic shed. If it fits underneath then you have a protected and self-contained unit that can be moved. To cover the sides and have a securable space perhaps you can install lattice and back it with heavy fencing...maybe chain link.
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,430
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Thanks Rick...that's exactly the kind of input I'm looking for! I'd thought about something self contained, but think I just want to enclose instead. I kind of like the "lattice type" enclosure, and it doesn't have to be Ft. Knox, so I probably wouldn't even need more. Keep those ideas coming!
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Lawrenceville GA 30045
Posts: 7,377
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I bought a Duramax brand vinyl storage building that was on sale at the local PepBoys and constructed it under part of our deck. It had a rebate, so my final cost was $500. I reinforced the included foundation kit with extra bracing. If it were installed on solid flooring (like a concrete pad) it would probably be okay, but I was installing it on paver blocks on dirt.
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
Posts: 73,189
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I designed and built a similar 'pan' system as desribed iun the popular mech article. Tho, in my design, the pans are stainless steel with a bent-up flange (this provides for nailing/screwing to the joists). THe other key part is copper flashing, placed along the top of the joist, to give cover to the joist-pan contact. ~10years, still going.
The downside to my approach, is that implementation needs to happen before the deck-boards go down. --it appears that the system in the article is designed to go on existing decks.
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Stressed Member
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I did this about 10 years ago using corrogated fiberglass panels for the roof under the deck. This approach required framing independent of the deck, but resulted in a dry, secure, lockable area for storage.
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Build one of those underground bomb shelters they use to have plans for in Pop. Mech. in the early '60. Those were cool. My dad knew a guy that built one during the Cuban Missile Crisis. Dad called the guy a nut case.
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 5,668
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With the popular mechanics approach, I'd have some concern about organic mater accumulating in the cavity. Just like a rain gutter accumulates decomposing stuff. Except a rain gutter is easy to clean out.
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How far is it between the bottom of the deck and the ground?
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Dog-faced pony soldier
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Obviously the critical issue is going to be moisture infiltration from above - you'll need to seal up the upper deck surface (plywood deck with some sort of material to seal it - I'd probably use an asphalt type surface with pavers to mitigate wear & tear - and flash as appropriate). You'll also need to build a slope into the deck surface to drain, which can be accomplished by shimming the plywood at 1/4" per foot to the outside so you don't get standing water. Once that's done it's relatively simple to construct a wall around the lower area to make it weathertight.
Keep in mind that you need to be very clear on your drawings and permit applications that this is storage area ONLY. If the city sees this as habitable space, they're going to whack you with energy requirements, make you insulate the heck out of it, etc. (not to mention the permit fees will be significantly higher).
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 30,430
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Thanks everyone, keep those ideas coming! Chuck, I'd already considered how to periodically keep the cavity clean of debris, etc. so that's definitely a factor. The total "working height" is approx 5 1/2 ft. so I'm limited...I just want to be able to store a lawn tractor, garden tools, etc. under there and keep them relatively dry and secure.
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