Window Replacement - using IGUs

[RWebb]

I have 4 nasty little vinyl sliding windows I want to replace with IGUs (Integrated Glass panels). All 4 of them are about 12" high; 2 are 27 wide and 2 are 44" wide. These slot windows are nasty little sliders that do nothing for ventilation, are hard to slide, and make a great place for mold to grow and for spiders to hide.

These things are mounted low below 2 big picture windows downstairs.
I thought about having somebody pull the entire 2 units out of the
wall (1 big + 2 sliders in each unit) and put in 2 full windows, but that costs $3,000, so I am going to invest my labor in it and save some bucks.

Now, to do a good job and seal these thing right, what do I need to do?

[1] I think there is some kind of dense foam that you put on the bottom of the rough opening which they sit on (?) What is that stuff called?

[2] Also, there is a tape that goes on the exterior and seals against air leaks - it is some special tape but again I dunno the name of it?

[3] Any other thoughts? or things I am forgetting?

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Won't someone please think of the spiders?

I bet they're endangered. No permit for you.

[Jagshund]

Post some pics.

[RWebb]

here is the overall view

[RWebb]

close up of the bottom of the RO - I had fun with the SawzAll...

note that it has a small "U" shaped channel in the bottom.

[Zeke]

Place bituthane on the raw wood before placing the window frame. Not sure what that exterior condition is, but over stucco we just caulk and back caulk the crap out of these things. Also, I'd buy an awning window for those locations.

Also #2, I'd use a flush fin model and place it over the RO.

[75'930cab]

You usually put window tape on when installing new construction windows with nail fins only. I just use spray foam like the stuff you can buy at Home Depot or Lowes.

[A930Rocket]

What is the wall finish, sheetrock? Why not just add deadwood, insulate with batts, sheetrock over the openings and paint? Fix the siding on the exterior.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by A930Rocket

What is the wall finish, sheetrock? Why not just add deadwood, insulate with batts, sheetrock over the openings and paint? Fix the siding on the exterior.

He may need ventilation to comply with code.

5% of the floor area must open to outside air in all habitable rooms.

[RWebb]

I've got the vent. issue covered.

I had similar windows upstairs & a LOT of labor was involved in sheetrocking & extending the siding up to cover on the exterior. Things were set on an angle & the 2x4's all had to be cut just right. I paid a guy to do it, but don't want to get into that much labor (or pay) here.

One IGU bid came in at $350 for the 4 of 'em (the reed glass must be pushing the cost up). Still waiting on another bid.

No need for awnings on these - the deck shades them (too) well. One faces N. anyway.

I do keep thinking about the idea of covering them up tho -- they are so low down they don't really do much good...

[RWebb]

oh yeh - I fear that full nail finned windows would cost way too much.

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by RWebb

I've got the vent. issue covered.

...................................

One IGU bid came in at $350 for the 4 of 'em (the reed glass must be pushing the cost up). Still waiting on another bid.

No need for awnings on these - the deck shades them (too) well. One faces N. anyway.

Heh he. He said he's got the vents covered.

I didn't mean an awning, I meant an awning style window. More ventilation, can be left open in the rain.

Go here for close to wholesale pricing to keep your supplier honest.
Replacement windows and skylights by Andersen, Milgard, CertainTeed, International, Superior, Jeld-Wen, Bristolite and Velux with online discount pricing

[A930Rocket]

That's a new one on me, but then I've always installed operable windows in habitable rooms.

Originally Posted by milt

He may need ventilation to comply with code.

5% of the floor area must open to outside air in all habitable rooms.

[RWebb]

oh yeh - awning windows - got it.

I'll have Fr. Doors there and more Fr. Doors or maybe a slider in the room next to it, so think the cheaper fixed panels will be fine.

Looked at it again today & defintiely want to see out those lil' slits.

[Zeke]

Make sure you order tempered glass.

[widebody911]

Originally Posted by milt

He may need ventilation to comply with code.

5% of the floor area must open to outside air in all habitable rooms.

I did not know that! I'm willing to bet my house is not to code.

[Hugh R]

I'm at an industrial hygiene conference, and yesterday, I attended a session where they correlated formaldhyde gas build up in new homes with ventilation. With new LEED certified houses (very tight houses with respect to ventilation, they found high levels of formaldhyde (like 100 to 200 ppb), CA recommends no higher than 7 ppb. Not such a big deal with older homes, but bottom line the more open windows the better.

[RWebb]

thx Hugh - I've been seeing those issue in the literature for a while now, but my 1963 house should not be a problem.

I generally try to avoid plastics esp. vinyl in the house too.

Mold is the big issue here. Some people have even had to burn down their houses - even a new house for the local basketball coach had to be burned down -- not a cheap house by any means.

[Hugh R]

Burned down? Wow, I think there is a biblical reference to that and mold. I used to certify some mold remediaitons, but I never encountered a house that was so bad it had to be burned down. Then again I'm in SoCal and your in Oregon.

[RWebb]

oh yeh - WESTERN Orygun