My Own Surfing Thread!

[Bill Douglas]

Yeah. It is a bit true. Back in the day "Loyalty to the job." Surfing slightly frowned upon.

Now it turns out it's probably one of the most sensible choices we ever made.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Yeah. It is a bit true. Back in the day "Loyalty to the job." Surfing slightly frowned upon.

Now it turns out it's probably one of the most sensible choices we ever made.

I personally never ditched school or work to go surfing. Why - when I can always go out after school and/or after work?

What I did do is drive 2 1/2 hours each way almost every weekend while attending college for 5 years so I could go surfing. I stayed at my parents house. As an alternative - it was only a 1/1/2 hour drive to get to the ocean if it didn't make sense to go the extra hour to get to my parent's and a better break here in NSB. There were times when I had other stuff to do that weekend.

I also endeavoured to live on the coast. Had to deviate a couple times due to career choices - but they were always a means to an end.

Now I'm a 15 minute walk to one of the best breaks on the East Coast. I just ordered some surfboard racks for my e-bike too. Already have them for my 24 speed. Options Bill.....options!

Summer bump today.....

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Nice left peeling off there, warm water, sunny day.
Its all good, NO bad days.

[Bill Douglas]

And it's warm water too Baz. Sounds great.

[Baz]

[3rd_gear_Ted]

Here is a story that reflects the "Brotherhood" days in SoCal.
This is the same brotherhood that was associated with Timothy Leary and his Laguna canyon ranch (another good story)

Jim Russell was a pioneer in surfing Baja and Mexico.
The times we spent at "Shipwrecks" were some of the best surfing trips in my humble life.
Living on $3 a day in Puerto Escondido and some how surviving one of the meanest surf breaks ever was the top of my list.
In 2011 the complexities of life for a true soul surfer were too much for him and he committed suicide.
There were some a paddle outs at his favorite spot in Mexico and Baja.
I attended the one in Baja and cried my eyes out.

https://www.surfboardsbyrussell.com/history

https://www.thegardenisland.com/2011/08/31/hawaii-news/iconic-surfboard-shaper-russell-dies/

[Baz]

Thanks for your heartfelt post, Ted. I found another page with many notes of condolences and memories of the man:

https://forum.swaylocks.com/t/robert-russell-brown-rip/44191

When you leave a legacy such as this you know you had a life well lived.

I/we lost a very close friend to the surfing community here several years ago and I think of him often.

===========

Some pre-Endless Summer stuff showing up on YT - pretty cool. Corky is a legend in so many ways!

[Baz]

[Baz]

[Baz]

This past winter I was moving a little slower, carrying a few aches — but still getting in the water, still chasing the feeling because I could, just ha.
Surfing through my hip issues reminded me that staying connected to what you love doesn’t mean going big or being at your best all the time and sometimes its just about paddling out and trying your best anyway.



TY, Barton!

[Baz]

Dale Webster, Who Surfed For 14,642 Days Straight, Passes Away

“Surfing is really a challenge,” Webster surmised. “Sometimes you end up looking for perfect waves that only exist in magazines. But when you go to the beach, you have to surf the waves you have on hand. It may not be barreling, but the act of putting on a suit, going out there, and just being in the water feels wonderful.”


“I like to think of surfing as a healthy habit,” Webster told SURFER this year. “But I can understand how it can be an addiction.” Photo: Craig

[Baz]

[Bill Douglas]

Baz, I've surfed that Noordhoek Beach. It was REALLY cold. Whereas the Indian ocean side, a short distance away, was reasonably OK. No big waves when I was there but I did hook into some big ones in Jeffreys Bay and up and down that coast.

[William930t]

I previously posted the drone angle YT link for the incredible 2018 Skeleton Bay tube ride, now the GoPro Koa Smith angle, simply amazing, count the times her gets barreled!

[Baz]

My friend Bean on GMA!

https://www.fox35orlando.com/video/1699472

[Bill Douglas]

True hero.

[Baz]

Mike Stewart is a legend. Used to see him featured in every surf movie from the 70's on......

https://www.surfer.com/news/mike-stewart-bodyboard-massive-teahupoo