My Own Surfing Thread!

[Baz]

[Geary]

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The neglected Head Dip ..

[tevake]

Originally Posted by Baz

Little doubt about this early style master, Billy Hamilton. Both he and his son Laird have great surfing carriers with out going the contest route. Quite unusual in this sport.

Thanks Baz for keeping the surfing thread going with all your great images finds!

Cheers Richard

[Baz]

Thanks, Rich! Cool thing about that pic of Hamilton is he was riding a long board but after he went to riding a shorter board --- his cutback was exactly the same...maybe even a bit more radical!

Geary posts a few nice pics here too....that head dip is a classic!

Now here's a very cool shot of PT as a double for William Katt during filming of Big Wednesday...

[Geary]

I first met Billy Hamilton at the Makaha contest, November '65. He was over with the Wind & Sea surf team. Funny how he looks a lot like Laird in that cut-back photo.

Brian Keaulana tucks under a big lip @ Peahi. I had just walked up to my friend taking photos when he caught this wave.

[Baz]

^^ Now that's a massive wave!!! Really great shot too! Thanks for sharing Geary.

OK Trader.....my buddy just sent me info on Peru. He uses a guide named Alberto Lopez. FWIW, Alberto speaks English too, he said.

His email is:
betyctus@hotmail.com

You can Google his name for more info - he goes through a Peruvian surfing website for lessons and stuff too, I believe.

Let me know if I can help with anything else. When you get serious about the trip I'd be happy to put you directly in touch with my buddy here if you want.

Please keep us posted on your health too!!!

Cheers!

[Geary]

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Huge Westerly swell yielding rare lefts @ Peahi (Jaws) ..

[Baz]

^^^ Now that's insane right there.....wow!!!

Another potato chip board snapped in two by Mother Ocean......

[tevake]

I'd bet that she is sponsored , I never looked that happy walking home with the pieces

Those were truly maciking waves at Peahi Geary. Powerful even from up on the bluff.

Brian was so deep And charging so high on the barreling right. Bold!

Cheers Rich

[Geary]

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Two more shots from the same insane day (sorry for the low quality). You can see why they moved over to the lefts .. the rights were walling up a bit too much.

[Baz]

Shark attack at J-Bay!

[trader220]

Update.... I have been getting around better and better. Working nearly full days. Been able to ride my bicycle a couple miles. Went for a 2 hour motorcycle ride, took it easy and was just tooling around. That was pushing it, my core muscles were still not strong enough and I was then putting too much weight on my arms, shoulders and wrists. Hurt like hell after 90 minutes and I could barely clutch and brake as I made my way home.

I am dead set on Chicama next fall. Thats my goal. I know there has been some decent surf at my regular spot in OC NJ recently but I cant bare to look and not paddle out.

Thanks to everyone!

[Baz]

Thanks for the update Trader....keep charging!

[Baz]

[Geary]

Originally Posted by Baz

Oh, man .. that photo gives me the willies. Getting caught inside can be a nightmare.

So hot today, I'm enjoying my snow photos ..

[chocolatelab]

Heading back to Tahiti. Surfing Haapiti.

Its on the southeastern end of Moorea.

Forecast looks good.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Geary

Oh, man .. that photo gives me the willies. Getting caught inside can be a nightmare.

10-4 on that!

Originally Posted by chocolatelab

Heading back to Tahiti. Surfing Haapiti.

Its on the southeastern end of Moorea.

Forecast looks good.

I surfed on the other side when I was there....Cook's Bay, I think. Just paddled out by myself - long paddle and was a little spooky but man the water was pretty!

I think this is the break.....



Please keep us posted, Chris!

[Baz]

BTW - my board was stolen in the very early morning hours of my departure in Papeete. It along with one belonging to an Aussie surfer I met. We met at the terminal and had hours to kill before our flight so threw in together with a rental car and put our boards on the roof and went touring. Came back to town, parked on the street and had a bite...we kept checking the car about every 20 minutes and the last time we checked they were gone. Filed a report with the local constabulary which took a while since we didn't speak Tahitian or French but we knew they were gone - the report was just for insurance.

Bloody thieves!!!

[tevake]

What a great setup at Haapiti. I've anchored Tevake just inside the lagoon there, so we could keep an eye on the break and hit it when the numbers were right.
Amazing watching the waves peel with perfect precision down the outer reef toward the pass at warp speed. Surf on the out going tide and the current sweeps you right back to the take off area.

The locals hate seeing pictures taken of their spots. As if there are any secret spots left. But that's how they feel.

Love that place, have fun Chockolatelab !

Cheers Richard

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Keala Kennelly @ Teahupoo yesterday (holy f*ck!)