I have an Aussie friend who bought a house somewhere on Bali - open invite to stay anytime - and only pay the wait staff and my own provisions. I truly hope I can take him up on his offer one day. Never been to Indonesia before but it sounds pretty good, Dan.

Plenty of filthy barrels in this footage....

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The first time I surfed Indonesia was @ Uluwatu with Gerry and 4 others, a year after that footage. One of those dreamlike memories that remains with you as a surfer.

Just got off the phone w/ my son...

"Guess who I surfed with a couple weeks ago"

"Dunno, who?"

"Alana Blanchard, we were free surfing before the Quiksilver Pro @ Snapper Rocks. As soon as I saw that azz, I knew who it was."

"Good Boy!" :D



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Baz: Awesome footage! That's the Mentawaii surf I dream about. However, on the Quest 1, $35,000 is the tab for a group of eight for the most awesome nine-10 days of your life. The charters get some those incredible off shore reef breaks, but my style would me an extended stay in a grass hut on the dirt. could do a whole high season for my share of the charter with change left over to buy the Bintangs.

Diverdan

My Own Surfing Thread!
 

Nice! That's so cool!

I totally agree, Tweez!

Now let me help you with that photo, Jim....:p

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_Bw7MGGKXkT...00/Alana+1.png

She would for sure disrupt my concentration if we were surfing together....

http://surf.transworld.net/wp-conten...g/AO4B8657.JPG

Yep, Alana and some of her crew make for a good reason to paddle just slower than a girl. :-)

My Own Surfing Thread!
 

You guys crack me up. Her suit is a good idea though. Saves you from picking it out of your tush when a wave pushes it up there.

Want to share a story. I have a friend who had breast cancer about 12 years ago and had a mastectomy. Well, now it came back in the other breast. She just had surgery and we have been going back and forth, talking about her recovery, old times, etc. Out of the blue, she pauses and there is silence. She takes a deep breath and goes, "well, I wanted to ask you something. When this is all said and done, I want to go to San Diego and learn how to surf. Will you go with me?" Nearly made me cry. So I am starting to make plans. I think surfing will help her so much. There is something so healing and good for the soul about surfing.

Will keep you guys updated. By the way, her nickname for me is Sparkles. That's how she asked me. "Will you go with me, Sparkles?"

A friend getting barreled a few days ago (underwater shot):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1364167526.jpg

Good for her...good for you...and I hope you girls can head this way. My wife is a BC survivor also. If she wants/needs to talk about anything, let me know. Renee has been very involved since she was diagnosed. She does volunteer work at the cancer ctr and is still very good friends w/ her nurses. Oh...and my son has been a surf instructor...so I can volunteer him. SmileWavy

surfing | Search Results | Michigan in Pictures
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PM me with his deets. I am always lookin for people to surf with. Again, I live in AZ, not a lot people surf here.

My good friend Mike Martin receives the lifetime achievement award at the 1st Annual New Smyrna Beach Surf Film Festival.

Aside from all the years Mike has supported our local surf club, especially assisting in contest operations, he traveled the world for many many years as the US ASP judge.

To speak with Mike, because of his easy nature and humility, you wouldn't know he's spent time with the world's finest surfers at some of the best surf spots in the world. Ah the stories he can tell....

Congrats "Mick"!

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Cool, Baz! You have some pretty cool surf connections!

I am trying SUP surfing this weekend. Don't have many waves to catch in AZ. Have to do with what I have. At a local lake. We will see how this goes. I don't think it will be the same as SUP surfing in the ocean. :(

1960's surfing photos
 

Surfing the net, I came across these...enjoy.

THE PHOTOGRAPHY OF LEROY GRANNIS | LEGENDARY LIVER & CHRONICLER OF CALIFORNIA SURF CULTURE | The Selvedge Yard

Nice way to start the day from Magic Seaweed....

Love seeing so many girls/women in the water now a days.
Never used to see them and it is a far better scene with them there.

And they can bring it - the little ones I teach are far more natural than the boys, and seem to have more fun.

Love the old school pics Paul - if I could pic a period to surf it would have been back then, in Cali when it was all young and fresh and underground.

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Baz at "Domes" (Rincon), Puerto Rico Christmas break 1973.

That board was a single fin swallowtail Nichols (shaped by Danny Nichols) complete with black lightning bolt on yellow deck over gray bottom - one of my fav. boards I ever had. Also - I had taken a keel fin with me that I found discarded in the factory's trash can - it had been removed from a Dick Catri board - this was when keel fins were first being used and experimented with. Anyway - I sanded it until it would fit in my fin box after I pounded it in a bit with my palm. So at some point while surfing "Pools" the darn thing came out and was lost. Of course I had brought a conventional fin with me so just used that the rest of the trip.

It was a fun trip - waves were not huge but had a little size and were fun and of course it was nice and warm. I met a beautiful PR nursing student who was also on Christmas break. I have a pic of here somewhere - she was gorgeous. My 2 buddies who went with me left early but I stayed the whole 10 days and soaked in the island mojo....

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...90986616_n.jpg

By the way......you know Summer is on it's way because the views are now becoming a lot more interesting.....

http://vmedia.rivals.com/UserMedia/F...20/O156033.jpg

A bud sent me this pic a couple weeks ago his wife took of him at Table Rock P.R.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365077191.jpg

NICE JCF!

I'm told you can now fly direct into Aquadilla instead of San Juan.

That saves a lot of time and also transportation cost.

Yup.........just looked it up and here's the link:
Rafael Hernández Airport - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hmmmm.......might not be a bad place to go again this winter. :)

I've still got a pic somewhere that a friend sent of Tres Palmas (?), PR. Wow .. it looked almost like a photo of main peak, Sunset Beach, Oahu.

"Morning of the Earth" is a must have film for the soul surfer:

(the soundtrack as well!)

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Yes - I've seen the pics of Tres Palmas in surf mags.....huge swells breaking outside.

I have friends who travel to PR every year without fail. They have ridden some big waves there. :cool:

http://p.cdn-surfline.com/0E1/fotos-028.jpg

:eek:

Domes:

http://www.parapentepr.com/fotos/PlantaNuclear.JPG

I think the first break was called "Dogman's" and then came "Domes" and then "Rincon".

You had to walk in to get to "Rincon" and "Pools".

Found some maps....I stand corrected....it was "Marias" then "Domes". "Dogman's" was more back towards Tres Palmas.

http://www.wannasurf.com/spot/Centra...puertorico.gif

http://www.surfrinconpr.com/uploads/...008528.jpg?559

http://www.puertoricosurfvacations.c...es/surfmap.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_QJ2DTnTKvW...n-surf-map.jpg

Found some info on the place we stayed "Kahuna's Guest House":

RINCON HIGH LIFE: The History of Dos Ceibas, Rincon, Puerto Rico

R.I.P. Kahuna!

More pics from my trip to PR:

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http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...93576706_n.jpg

My bud , the one in that pic owns a great house in Rincon with a view of Tres Palmas from the top floor deck.
Spends half the year down there.
His wife and kid are still down there but he is back to work here and he was telling me the other day they called and his 9 year old daughter was out in some bigger surf and first, got the ride of her [young] life - and then paddling back out got a set wave right on top of the head.
I guess she tried to duck dive it and the wife (who is herself a very good surfer) said you could see her get sucked up and then go backwards over the falls still holding on to her board.
When he asked her how it felt she said it was ok - but that she wasn't going to let go of that board for ANYTHING, that she was afraid she wouldn't get back to the surface if she did and laughed.

I laughed too because once [in my prime even] I had the exact same experience.

Got to love it !

Love those vintage pics too Baz - and that board !

Great story, JCF!

I think we can all relate to situations where we felt our board acted as a life preserver....ha ha. Then again I remember actually abandoning that sucker and diving for the bottom - to keep from getting dragged and sucked into the vortex!

Your buddy's daughter is very fortunate to have such a great lifestyle at her age - she will have some incredible memories as she grows up.

One of these days I will get back to Rincon! :p

Yep, the leash can be your most important climbing line ever!

Check out Shane's big one.

The Greatest of a Great: The Best Wave of Shane Dorian's Life - YouTube

That was sick, Richard.

Shane Dorian - legend!

Hey JCF - I just remembered an old friend of mine who used to shape boards here in NSB moved to PR many moons ago. His name is Bill Geiger. We always called him "Doc" Geiger because he always had these theories about board design which were cutting edge. I wonder if your friend knows him or has heard of him. Not sure where he re-located to in PR but must have been in the Rincon area. Be cool to see how he is doing these days. Couple of my boards were shaped by him back in the day. They rode great. One was a fish too....an M.C.G. with the G. being "Geiger".

Thanks,
Baz

My friend just had a 9'6 gun made for Tres Palmas, he told me some hot local shaper in Rincon made it.
Told me who but I'll have to ask him again as it slipped my mind.

We're expecting some surf tomorrow so I'll ask him if it was Doc.

Thank you!

I just did a search and think I found his shop:
SURF ZONE SURF AND SKATE SHOP

In fact - they list "Summer Jet" as their surfboard brand and that's the name Doc used while here before he left so this has to be his shop. Wow....I'll have to try and get in touch with him. It's been probably over 25 years now.

Now I doubt if anyone uses that "Doc" nickname down there....probably just Bill or Billy.

I'd be interested in what your friend says....thanks again! ;)

Ok just found this page...this confirms it....

Summer Jet Surfboards are BACK! - SURF ZONE

Huh.....also just found an old pic of me riding a 5' 5" M.C.G. fish that Billy shaped....fun times at the NSB Inlet!

http://members.rennlist.org/bazzalan..._NSB_inlet.jpg

Looking for my last tax return today and ran across a box of old photos - I didn't remember Doc had made me a board (a "Geiger") while I was still in college at U.F. - must have been about 1975-6. This was at the top of the stairs that led to my apartment off campus. Check out the classic pin striping and air brushing...:cool:

There was a hot chick that lived in the house behind me for a while - ha - those were some great times....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365893983.jpg

And here's one of me and my Randy Richenberg thruster in 1994 at my parent's house. I was still living in Fort Myers at the time but the following year was able to do a lateral transfer back to this area. Fort Myers was a great place to live and work but not for surfing. The job I had over there allowed me to purchase my first house as well as learn about business so it was well worth the trade off.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1365894260.jpg

Loving those vintage pics - how many of those classic boards do you still have ?

Surfed today, waves a little overhead, not great but we take what we can get here.
Still COLD - won't this spring EVER fire up ???!!!
It is warmer IN the water than out.
Still haven't had the car out.
Bikes , yes but COLD.


Anyhow - the fellow who shaped my friends gun is named Muniz

I forget his first name - chalk it up to hypothermia - I want to say Mickey but Mickey MunOz was a whole nother animal I imagine.
Still think that is what he said;
Mickey MunIz , from San Juan.

Guys I have great memories of some childhood years living Mayaguez. My Dad worked on a missile tracking that NASA ran there. I was in 5th/6th grades. I never saw surfing while there but did get into the ocean in a big way thru snorkeling, really got my love of the ocean going.
Ended up going back with a friend who was in the army and we stayed at Remy at the officers club and getting lots of waves to ourselves on base. Quick trip but really fun.

Fast forward to more resent past. I found a video that shows the job I used to do running charter boats here on Kauai that I want to share, Think you may enjoy it. Some local budding surf stars did the video and do add to the scenery a bit.

Alana Blanchard Wild On The Na Pali Coast: Alana Surfer Girl, Ep 103 - YouTube