Whoo, it's a bit quick. I think I would end up looking like a dog's dinner if I tried surfing that.

No way am I up for that wave. Not even in my youthful surf nazi days. It is interesting to see this wave develop, kick way out and create this 30' hollow room... and then the door closes! :eek:

Not getting out before the door closes means bouncing off the coral reef until the energy dissipates. A rough finish!

East coast legend Greg Loehr riding his Natural Art - probably at Hatteras in an ESA heat - either ESSC or USSC - I would say around '73....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...94278003_n.jpg

Wow now that is a flash back for me Baz. He was coming onto the scene, and Gary Proper, and My Favorite surfer of the era there Mike Tabling were all peaking at the time that I headed out of Fla in 72.
Proper tho not that likable, was the consummate prototype pro surfer of the day on the east coast any way. Thanks for the memories.

Cheers Richard

Tabling was pretty cool, I agree, Richard. He would show up here in NSB periodically - and it would be a big deal for us. He was riding a fish back then and with his lanky frame he really did some nice carving, especially at our Inlet (NSB) when the waves were pumping.

Proper phased out pretty quickly not long after boards went shorter. I hadn't thought much about it until your comment. There was a BUNCH of guys from Brevard County that were hot shots, I don't have to tell you. We all surfed against each other in the ESA, more or less, except for the grommets, which were in a younger division....

Greg Loehr though...he was my favourite. Great surfer with unique style. Did very well when he surfed in the islands too as did Crawford and Balzerack.

And Bobby Owens from Daytona.

:cool:

Bobby Owens is my all time favorite hero, best surfer, best big wave dude.



I saw him surf the pipemasters years ago.

Cool, Bill. He and his family were regulars here for years - they were so nice and were hardcore surfers, especially Bobby...

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OSMXdJhm1m...by+Owens+2.jpg

THAT was the most insane Tahiti session ever, IMO ..

Here's an 8-year old shot of Mikala Jones on Maui ..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370317122.jpg

Mikala charges! Thanks, Geary.....excellent photo!

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j90CS2U0I64" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks Baz, phew I found I was leaning hard into the drop watching that video :)

Now THIS is how you surf tThe Wedge ( 1:40 and 6:12 )!!!
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/65075287" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/65075287">MhOVIE</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/conceptblue">rory pringle @ conceptblue</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

This is a bit more my style...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370736484.jpg

Love, Bill.

Thanks. It was one of those days when the waves just kept peeeeeling off. That was about a 100 meter ride.

Yeah NICE pic, Bill. Cool to have some photos, especially when you remember how the session was that day. :p

Also thanks for the video JCF.....very cool! :cool:

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Surfing Waimea Bay shorebreak...crazy

Bill - great shot - can just feel it.
What spot is that ?

Thanks, it's just a break here in NZ. I spent a month surfing Jefferies Bay but no pics of me surfing it as I was on my own. Umm, I've taken pics of the other guys on the big days, but the other guys weren't into photography so almost no pics of me.

That's what chicks are for.... :)

Don't you believe that Tweez !

Jeffries Bay.... WoW, always wanted to surf that one.
Shaun Tomson and then Tom Curren going through Supertubes....Oh Man !

Chicks taking photos. Umm, none of the ones I've ever been out with could manage that :(


Jefferies. I really was just like the postcards. I thought it was best at 4' but had one day at 8'. And consistant enough to surf fairly much every day.

Yeah well - her name was Kim and she was from Akron, Ohio. Met her in a local waterhole one night. Pretty fun girl to hang out with and she was pretty too!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370826874.jpg

Looks good to me :)


I took one out to a big wave spot (Paliser Bay) and thought she would be impressed and even she could manage some OK photos. When I got back to the car she went nuts at me for having been out for "Two hours! and there are no public toilets in the area!" Well, we were out in the middle of nowhere and there is a tree to go behind for the women and I'm sure one for the guys.

The photos were taken in quick succession and were of the inside of a car window and a blurry dot sitting out at sea :(

I don't live that far north of the Wedge. That's some water I never wanted to be in. Big time shore break with a very shallow bottom. Lot of guys left there in an ambulance. Many never walked, much less surfed, again.

Crazy wave.

I remember Sandy's in Oahu. There used to be an ambulance parked there waiting for easy, high value, customers.

Sandy Beach .. absolutely my favorite body surfing beach !

Playing hooky from high school, 1967

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370888948.jpg

Cool Geary!

Body surfing at the Outer Banks as a kid the salt water that was injected into your sinuses was insane!

Here's a cool shot of Gerry Lopez....the zen master:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...23213935_n.jpg

:eek: Two incredible rides by Slater at the Volcom Fiji Pro. On NBC July 7. :eek:

Kelly Slater's 10-point rides in Fiji

/\/\/\The BOMB!!! If you haven't seen it, you must! It's unreal what NEVER made it in the magazines (at that time our only way of knowing what was going on on the North Shore). That was mid-late 70s. The hotel story in the movie is EPIC!!!

I STILL need to see
Searching For Michael Peterson

Yes.....it's really one of my favourites, Jim. I don't know that many realise how close those Aussies came to being lynched by the Hawaiians!

And I also have the MP film, of course. I never realised how much of a gamesman MP was. He played HUGE mind games with the competitors. You need to see this!

<iframe width="853" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/wTQBWJHwd2s" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The influence of the Aussies on our surf culture is insurmountable. Especially (as was pointed out in the film) pro surfing, which was practically invented by the Aussies.

The soundtrack is really great as well....

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I remember that era well - At first those guys pissed me off but I remember when the shots of Shaun riding in the tube behind MR appeared in Surfer Mag - I became a fan.

Old School - I'm about old school as you can get - I still have a black rotary dial phone next to me here by the computer as my landline home phone.
Went to a local surf shop today ready to buy a Robert August Retro Shape twin.
Beautiful board - would hang it on my wall as art.
Anyhow - got there and was talking to the owner about old school boards and surfboard evolution and he pointed out what looked like a rack of styrofoam boards - I thought they were entry level throwaways. ...

They were Lib Tech boards - and I am seriously thinking about converting ...

Anyone here try one ?

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<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/rQyYEpECeDU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Never heard of them.....did you get one?

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...21985192_n.jpg

https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...80936043_n.jpg

Willy Morris, Rabbit, Larry Bertlemann, Wes Laine, Kong, Shaun Tomson and Chappy Jennings on the North Shore 1983

Going to try one first - but it's been flat

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372067505.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372080785.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372080799.jpg

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We get to see the boys riding those foil board out in front of our house in biggest swells on the outer reef. It's amazing to see how comfortable they seem riding over the top of the chop ever so smoothly. No squatting to absorb the bump. Just standing upright gliding / carving along. The best teams meet up at the end of the ride so cleanly that the rider never comes off the foils, just reaches down and grabs the well placed line and whips right back out. Can't believe how many waves they can ride in a short session.
Easy to say from the comfort of my tree branch about 15 ft up to see over the in between waves that would otherwise hide them from view. :eek: :p