That's what chicks are for.... :)

Don't you believe that Tweez !

Jeffries Bay.... WoW, always wanted to surf that one.
Shaun Tomson and then Tom Curren going through Supertubes....Oh Man !

Chicks taking photos. Umm, none of the ones I've ever been out with could manage that :(


Jefferies. I really was just like the postcards. I thought it was best at 4' but had one day at 8'. And consistant enough to surf fairly much every day.

Yeah well - her name was Kim and she was from Akron, Ohio. Met her in a local waterhole one night. Pretty fun girl to hang out with and she was pretty too!

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Looks good to me :)


I took one out to a big wave spot (Paliser Bay) and thought she would be impressed and even she could manage some OK photos. When I got back to the car she went nuts at me for having been out for "Two hours! and there are no public toilets in the area!" Well, we were out in the middle of nowhere and there is a tree to go behind for the women and I'm sure one for the guys.

The photos were taken in quick succession and were of the inside of a car window and a blurry dot sitting out at sea :(

I don't live that far north of the Wedge. That's some water I never wanted to be in. Big time shore break with a very shallow bottom. Lot of guys left there in an ambulance. Many never walked, much less surfed, again.

Crazy wave.

I remember Sandy's in Oahu. There used to be an ambulance parked there waiting for easy, high value, customers.

Sandy Beach .. absolutely my favorite body surfing beach !

Playing hooky from high school, 1967

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Cool Geary!

Body surfing at the Outer Banks as a kid the salt water that was injected into your sinuses was insane!

Here's a cool shot of Gerry Lopez....the zen master:

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:eek: Two incredible rides by Slater at the Volcom Fiji Pro. On NBC July 7. :eek:

Kelly Slater's 10-point rides in Fiji

/\/\/\The BOMB!!! If you haven't seen it, you must! It's unreal what NEVER made it in the magazines (at that time our only way of knowing what was going on on the North Shore). That was mid-late 70s. The hotel story in the movie is EPIC!!!

I STILL need to see
Searching For Michael Peterson

Yes.....it's really one of my favourites, Jim. I don't know that many realise how close those Aussies came to being lynched by the Hawaiians!

And I also have the MP film, of course. I never realised how much of a gamesman MP was. He played HUGE mind games with the competitors. You need to see this!

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The influence of the Aussies on our surf culture is insurmountable. Especially (as was pointed out in the film) pro surfing, which was practically invented by the Aussies.

The soundtrack is really great as well....

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I remember that era well - At first those guys pissed me off but I remember when the shots of Shaun riding in the tube behind MR appeared in Surfer Mag - I became a fan.

Old School - I'm about old school as you can get - I still have a black rotary dial phone next to me here by the computer as my landline home phone.
Went to a local surf shop today ready to buy a Robert August Retro Shape twin.
Beautiful board - would hang it on my wall as art.
Anyhow - got there and was talking to the owner about old school boards and surfboard evolution and he pointed out what looked like a rack of styrofoam boards - I thought they were entry level throwaways. ...

They were Lib Tech boards - and I am seriously thinking about converting ...

Anyone here try one ?

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Never heard of them.....did you get one?

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Willy Morris, Rabbit, Larry Bertlemann, Wes Laine, Kong, Shaun Tomson and Chappy Jennings on the North Shore 1983

Going to try one first - but it's been flat

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We get to see the boys riding those foil board out in front of our house in biggest swells on the outer reef. It's amazing to see how comfortable they seem riding over the top of the chop ever so smoothly. No squatting to absorb the bump. Just standing upright gliding / carving along. The best teams meet up at the end of the ride so cleanly that the rider never comes off the foils, just reaches down and grabs the well placed line and whips right back out. Can't believe how many waves they can ride in a short session.
Easy to say from the comfort of my tree branch about 15 ft up to see over the in between waves that would otherwise hide them from view. :eek: :p