Whoo, it's a bit quick. I think I would end up looking like a dog's dinner if I tried surfing that.

No way am I up for that wave. Not even in my youthful surf nazi days. It is interesting to see this wave develop, kick way out and create this 30' hollow room... and then the door closes! :eek:

Not getting out before the door closes means bouncing off the coral reef until the energy dissipates. A rough finish!

East coast legend Greg Loehr riding his Natural Art - probably at Hatteras in an ESA heat - either ESSC or USSC - I would say around '73....

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...94278003_n.jpg

Wow now that is a flash back for me Baz. He was coming onto the scene, and Gary Proper, and My Favorite surfer of the era there Mike Tabling were all peaking at the time that I headed out of Fla in 72.
Proper tho not that likable, was the consummate prototype pro surfer of the day on the east coast any way. Thanks for the memories.

Cheers Richard

Tabling was pretty cool, I agree, Richard. He would show up here in NSB periodically - and it would be a big deal for us. He was riding a fish back then and with his lanky frame he really did some nice carving, especially at our Inlet (NSB) when the waves were pumping.

Proper phased out pretty quickly not long after boards went shorter. I hadn't thought much about it until your comment. There was a BUNCH of guys from Brevard County that were hot shots, I don't have to tell you. We all surfed against each other in the ESA, more or less, except for the grommets, which were in a younger division....

Greg Loehr though...he was my favourite. Great surfer with unique style. Did very well when he surfed in the islands too as did Crawford and Balzerack.

And Bobby Owens from Daytona.

:cool:

Bobby Owens is my all time favorite hero, best surfer, best big wave dude.



I saw him surf the pipemasters years ago.

Cool, Bill. He and his family were regulars here for years - they were so nice and were hardcore surfers, especially Bobby...

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OSMXdJhm1m...by+Owens+2.jpg

THAT was the most insane Tahiti session ever, IMO ..

Here's an 8-year old shot of Mikala Jones on Maui ..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370317122.jpg

Mikala charges! Thanks, Geary.....excellent photo!

<iframe width="640" height="480" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/j90CS2U0I64" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Thanks Baz, phew I found I was leaning hard into the drop watching that video :)

Now THIS is how you surf tThe Wedge ( 1:40 and 6:12 )!!!
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/65075287" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/65075287">MhOVIE</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/conceptblue">rory pringle @ conceptblue</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

This is a bit more my style...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1370736484.jpg

Love, Bill.

Thanks. It was one of those days when the waves just kept peeeeeling off. That was about a 100 meter ride.

Yeah NICE pic, Bill. Cool to have some photos, especially when you remember how the session was that day. :p

Also thanks for the video JCF.....very cool! :cool:

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n..._5960438_n.jpg

Surfing Waimea Bay shorebreak...crazy

Bill - great shot - can just feel it.
What spot is that ?

Thanks, it's just a break here in NZ. I spent a month surfing Jefferies Bay but no pics of me surfing it as I was on my own. Umm, I've taken pics of the other guys on the big days, but the other guys weren't into photography so almost no pics of me.