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Get a real piece of pipe and put the conduit inside it. Keeps you from having this type of fun again!
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Quote:
EDIT: This is the only requirement which no one seems to follow: Quote:
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Rick 88 Cab Last edited by rick-l; 03-21-2012 at 10:36 AM.. |
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No Ground Fault Interrupter?
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Rick 88 Cab |
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I'm curious to know how the new pull went.
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Chris the more i learn, the less i know |
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G'day!
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So just to clarify......the issue was defective material ie: wire?
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Both, and it was taking the other hot w/ it.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Quote:
option A, I pulled all the wires and ran 5 new ones.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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When wire is run through a conduit like this the GFI is at the end of the circuit, there are only breakers which never tripped in the house panel
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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That's the theory we came up w/
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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It was actually pretty easy(electricians lube is a great invention), the hard part was digging up part of the driveway to inspect the conduit.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Two 115 V circuits requires two neutrals, and would be supplied with a pair of two conductor wires.
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Say you have a workshop 50 feet away and you want a series of 115 receptacles down two walls where each wall requires a 20 amp breaker. You would put a two pole breaker in the box (supposed to at least), run red, black and white wires the 50 feet and then parallel the neutral to each wall. Even when each leg is drawing 20 amps (40 total) there will never be more than 20 in the neutral. I expect with the price of copper you will see more of this.
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Rick 88 Cab |
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Quote:
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OK, I wasn't really sure.
I brought this up because I found this in a house and thought it was bogus until I read the NFPA book
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Rick 88 Cab |
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not the same bus, the same yoke. the yoke is where the screws go for a device. say for instance that you have a dishwasher and a garbage disposal both pulling from the same receptacle, that would need separate neutrals. like i said earlier, if the loads are somewhat balanced you can operate two circuits with one neutral.
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Is the scenario outlined in post #53 legal?
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Rick 88 Cab |
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yes it is.
but the point is moot. bill has re-pulled the wires. he has included two neutrals, one for each circuit. if he wants to be sure he didn't do this again he can run a test. it is called a megger and it tests the insulation of the wire. i would start at 100v.
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So what was the point of post #56?
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Rick 88 Cab |
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The point is moot, but any misinformation is not. I'm not sure we have all agreed on what is what here. The way I see it: 2 legs, one neutral (and we will assume in all cases, a ground): you could get 230v or 2 separate 120v circuits. In both cases, the power is coming from both sides of the panel. 2 legs, 2 neutrals: No shared neutral and the circuits can be on either leg or the same. If run in different sizes and on different breaker ratings, they must be kept separate. If the circuits are from the same buss, no 230v will measure. |
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