Well.... the body work will come last, I do agree that the stickers on the rear look a little suspect.... right now we are removing the engine because a headbolt is broken:(..... These cars are put together well, every nut, bolt, washer etc is tight, and more than half of them seem to break. I will say this, however, that the engine removal process is not as bad as I thought it would be... Can the engine be assembled completely before putting it back in the car(wiring harness issues)?

Porsche flat sixes do not have head bolts. They have head studs, with nuts on the ends. Make sure that you send it to someone good or start a thread on the 911 tech board here and ask about a million questions. If you are not familiar with Porsche air-cooled engines, all of the small block Chevy knowledge on earth will avail you nothing.

It is not a *common sense needed only* or general mechanical knowhow will do. These engines have issues that are unique to them and specific to the model and vintage of the mill you are working on. It's nothing you can't handle if you know what you're doing, but that's a big "IF".

Good luck! :cool:

And yes, the engine is removed and installed complete for the most part. In most models, 100% complete down to the air cleaner.

Get Wayne's Engine rebuild book. Also get the Bentley Manual for the SC.

You should NOT be breaking any hardware except for head studs. What are you trying to do? Replace head studs? Please start reading here with a search for "broken head studs".

I think you really have something here with that car - please make sure you educate yourself on the details before taking it apart or spring in for a good mechanic.

JMHO - very cool car.

G

Do not contact Motor Meister for your engine needs!!! :)

I was thinking the same thing but didn't even want to mention their name. That would be tragic I they got their greasy mitts on this car.

Yeah, specifically a VDO-style boost gauge with a tell-tale. Don't suppose you got the little triangular key to re-set it...

Good luck running a CIS 930 at 1.2 bar. That's something people did in the 80's. You really shouldn't touch the boost dial unless you know what the effect is on AFR's - and the numbers you're looking for on a 930 (hint: 13 at full chat is way lean).

There's better/safer ways to make 100+HP more than stock than turning up the boost. You can make 370 at the rollers with stock boost, stock valves/ports, stock manifold and CIS.

That's a lot for stock.

Last time I check, North Hollywood still has the key.

Kreme 930,

The red needle is stuck up there is because the last time that was where the highest boost recorded. Try not to get it near there unless its turned.

That sounds rather good. You coulda done a lot worse. :)

Head stud is correct.... I feel confident in my tech here... the only thing we are doing is replacing the stud and nut... the damn thing doesnt even leak! I'll make sure the car is tuned for 1.0 Bar max... Do these motors run afr's like other turbocharged cars ie(lancer evo/wrx sti, these I am much more familiar with)?... wide open at 10.9-11.5? Keep it really rich? I appreciate the help...

Shouldn't this have had the fiberglass rear bumper with the flipped tail lights?

send it to henry..

~370 at the rollers, as compared to 300 at the crank for RoW (or 265 for US-spec 86-up), needs a modern turbo, decent intercooler, improved headers, decent cams (SC work well) and uncorking the wastegate. All of which improves the car immensely both on and off-boost, only downside is the the heat kind of sucks after. Drat.

No need to address the 34mm(!) inlet ports, pancake manifold or boost for those power levels. Approaches taken for the next 100-150 HP generally diverge quite widely...

I don't know what it is but I know what I like...

That is a super nice car!!!! I am extremely jealous!

RE: The front bumper... I'm going out on a limb here... looks a little like a 944?

We are going to update turbo with a K27-7200, turbokraft intercooler, and fabspeed heater box/headers and exhaust. I asked Kremer about the body work, the front and rear bumpers, those guys are hard to understand and getting any kind of a response is difficult as well... the model is Kremer 930, the 935's has the flipped tail lamps and fiberglass rear bumper as far as I understand. The front bumper I have never seen before, consequently neither has anyone else I have spoken to.

Pump gas and 1 bar of boost?

I have all the bolt ons with major internal work, 3.4L and SC cam. 1 bar boost, pump gas and barely got 364 at the wheels. I have heard from some that they will get upwards of 380-390 at the wheels.

I am not as interested in power numbers as I am having a nice, reliable, fun to drive car... It will be a pump gas car for sure set at 1.0 bar. I am sure it will be fast enough while keeping it relatively stock. I'd love to be able to race one, but I don't think this car is the right choice for that activity:(... maybe in the future I'll put a twin turbo motor in the convertible....:cool:

That's good. Any relatively competent tech can work on that car as long as he's not a know-it-all who's too smart to read a FSM or ask someone who really knows. I build really fantastic engines myself because I'm the opposite...I ask so many questions and get so deep into the minutia that it drives everyone around me crazy. :)

It takes a new pair of glasses to work on engines that have 35lb. torque on the head fasteners, (or whatever the hell it is).

Well here are a few questions... while reading about this engine(torque specs, etc)... the copper o rings at bottom of jugs, should they be replaced? Should the nuts on the head studs be replaced? And what is this Loctite 573 stuff(goes between rocker box and jug assy)? I spoke with a local Porsche Tech, he's probably on here somewhere, told me to use this paste stuff from VW. Other than that(so far), these engines have a rather great design, considering they make more power stock than most other v8, v10, or v12 of the time.