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Well the consensus here is to put this thought away and I'm starting to see the logic. That said I am going to contact some local folks and fully explore this further.
I really appreciate the inputs and honesty. I am fully confident of being able to finish trim a 2500 sq/ft home within 3-4 months - did nearly that in half the time twice already. I guess I am still coming to grips with the project costs without the expensive finish work and of course the permit hurdles. Best, David |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Cle Elum - Eastern WA.
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For $8,000, I bought Oak doors and did it myself...I had the doors and baseboard sprayed (finished) by the supplier...I finished the window trim myself........ Installed over 3 months working about 3 days per week......Not bad pay for part-time work over the winter months....
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Join Date: Jul 2008
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I have built and or remodeled many homes. My first advice would be go down and talk to the building inspector. Get to know him/her they can be very helpful and if they know you want to do it right and are not looking to get over on them they will help you. I have never had an issue with an inspector. Second. There's no need for a GC they schedule the subs and as a result mark up the cost. Because you do not have a deadline you can schedule at your leisure. You can take your time with the foundation and utility rough ins. Your issue is going to be getting the structure water tight. You will want to schedule your roofer and sider to arrive shortly after the framing is complete to get the building water tight. Again, since you don't have a deadline you can schedule, electricians, plumbers, sheet rockers, painters at your leisure one at a time. You may even be able to cut a deal on pricing to have them come in to fill dead time in their schedules. Also most areas allow you as the homeowner to pull the permits for everything on a single family home. You can hire laborers to do a lot of the grunt work and just have the trades people come to tie everything in. Why pay an electrician $40.00 an hour to pull wires when you can hire a high school kid $15.00 to do it? I do not know costs in your area but in my area $140.00 is a doable square foot cost but that will get you builders grade materials. I have also had good results using plans out of a catalog many of the architects guarantee the plan will meet code so if your inspector states such and such needs to be changed they will send a new specification schedule to accommodate. Also as the home owner builder you can make changes yourself and submit to the building inspector for approval. Remember costs run up when you make changes in the middle of construction and work needs to be redone (change orders) keep those to a minimum unless you can do it yourself. I hope this helps. |
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Keep in mind that he mentioned using a construction loan, so he will not have all the time in the world. Time costs money...
JR |
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Agreed JR. But it is not as critical as building for a client with a move in deadline or to go to settlement. He even posted he would take 3-4 months to finish the trim. When I said at his leisure I didn't mean it would take him a year to finish. But when you are trying to finish on a deadline and you have trades people tripping over each other or worse one doesn't show up on Tuesday like the electrician who delays the HVAC guy Wednesday. Then the HVAC guy cant come back for two weeks that's a problem. Or the inspector can't get inspect the rough in for a few days delaying the sheet rocker. That delays all the other trades from doing their finish work. From his description he won't have that issue. Scheduling isn't as big an issue.
He has the luxury of going about the construction process at a more leisurely pace. That's all I am saying. |
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I know what you meant. I'm a commercial GC. Still, I think it will take him a lot longer than he thinks, if he does enough of the work himself to make any real difference in the cost. Plus, if he weren't financing it, the contruction phase might be loose enough on the back end to allow him to live there before it's 100% finished, which would take some load off of his cost for temporary housing. I'm not saying what is correct, just what can happen.
The more I think about this, the more I think he needs to stay put and ride the depreciation curve in his present house. I know all about maintenance and upkeep hassles when the kids (free slaves) are gone. For me, though, I think it would be relatively easy to farm out some yardwork and maid service and keep things reasonable. Financially, it makes a lot more sense. JR |
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Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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Things to budget: Fireplace, you can't really have a fireplace in CA anymore, but you can have a heating appliance in a chimney. If that is to be masonry, add 15K Stair case, if all natural wood, add 10 to 15K Same for upgrades to all the entry doors, passge doors and moldings. Hardwood natural cabinets installed with hardware, add 40K Top of the line appliances, add 20K over plain jane. Of course there's the floors, you can have wool carpets, hardwood and ceramic over poly and vinyl. Add some more. Your roofing costs will vary according to your fire zone. Add 20K more for upgrade. Hillside foundation, 40 tot 60K, 80 to 120K if more severe. Long driveway, well if concrete, probably $6 sq/ft. Landscape, well if you want it to look like it fits the home, 40K I echo the comments about building a home. Most folks will do it only once. The reason is that most construction labor is involved with commercial or multiple units. Custom homes rely on who is available at the time of need. It's a real crapshoot unless you have people in the pipeline like multi unit builders do. Or career contractors like look 171. Building things plus the door and window aspect is all I know and I'm at the point where I won't touch anything unless I can do it in a few hours by myself. It's a nasty business and no one is happy. Not a world you want to step into not knowing and then having to live with what you get well into your retirement. YMMV. |
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The overall idea is good - I did my wiring pulls myself. I would definitely DIY on the trim - it is not heavy lifting and just requires some artisanship (if I can do it then anyone can do it) and learning a few tricks. I look at trim carpentry as mid-way between framing and cabinetmaking - not nearly as much equipment and skill required as cabinetry (which I'd never do without a fully equipped shop) one other thing - you need to be careful about what one group of tradesmen "leaves" for you or the next group - it can be a nightmare or make things easy... all my comments are from the aspect of a DIYer who started 15 years ago with no experience... Last edited by RWebb; 04-04-2013 at 12:03 PM.. |
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No commercial or mutiple units for me. I like my sleep. I built out a couple of high end restaurant in Old town Pasadena, because I knew the owners well and have worked with them before, otherwise, no thanks. it was fun, but I can see myself doing that all the time. Residential is a lot easier on my poor soul. David, Make friends with the local custom builders. No, not the ones that build tracks of 6 or 8 homes, but the high end custom builders (building single homes)and ask them for references on subs. You will need good subs. Those subs that do not do production work daily seem to do better detail work I noticed. Scheduling and managing the subs will be your biggest challenge. Lets the subs deal with the inspector please, not you. Pay only after they signed off on the rough work on a particular trade. Budget? I don't understand why do people go over budget? Its spec'd out in the plan. when they bid, they bid to spec. If you change your mind, then the pricing should go up or down accordingly. You want to see Guarantee Maximum Price on all of your contracts. If they go over, then they are responsible for the completion of said project. |
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If you truly want to downsize, this is what you do. The dream of building your own home is not likely a move in that direction. IMO, being realistic is finding the right home, one that is affordable, where YOU can see the potential. If you wanted to build a 911, what would you start with ? A cosmetically challenged but mechanically solid car, or would you do a full ground up build ? You would most likely buy a car with good bones. Upgrading flooring, doing a bathroom or trim is where you want to be. Maybe taking out one interior wall, or updating someone else's bad decor. I have been building for 35 years, and before that I worked with my father from the time I could talk. 90% of the time, this is the way to go to achieve your goals. Last edited by DanielDudley; 04-05-2013 at 01:03 AM.. |
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OTOH... remodelling a fixer makes it harder to do insulation (2x4 vs 2x6 walls) and may saddle you with a floor plan you don't like
check it out tho, as taxes & permit fees can make a BIG difference a guy on the next block bought a rundown place and stripped it to nothing more than the concrete foundation and a short wall of 2x4 studs - he then built (all by himself) a 2.5 story house there IIRC, he's a contractor - but he did the whole thing w/o a helper(!) it looks like it aged him a lot tho... |
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I bet you will have to pay an other couple of thousand bucks to make those plans work. If you have to move some interior structural wall with long span, right there its 1500 dollars just for the stamp. I really think its only 2-3000 dollar difference. In the big picture, I am not sure if its worth the headache or the savings (still someone else's design). There are a few unknowns here, and all along, we have been talking about headaches and stress. IMO, don't skimp on the planning, (most want to and save it for the build) because you will pay for it later. I have never even seen a set of plan like that. This is only my prediction and theory.
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For those curious here is the lot we are contemplating. There is another similar lot just below and a larger 3 acre lot above.
I have done many existing home renovations including some light framing and basic electrical however most of my experience is with stone work (travertine/marble) on floors and walls, wood flooring, cabinet installation, lighting upgrades, doors, and tons of moulding. I'm going to start contacting appropriate folks as detailed by folks here in the next week or two. Thanks again. |
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David, you see the big granite on there?
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I think I would first check with local zoning, or the HOA (if applicable) to see if there is certain building requirements of square footage, or general shape/design of the house to be built. They may require a 3000 sq ft minimum limit and possibly only a two story home design like some neigborhoods, just check that you can actually build what you want without bending rules, and thus having difficulty in obtaining permits.
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