Be gentle... I need help/information about classic Mustangs

[95avblm3]

Originally Posted by Jim Bremner

I drove this car as a sales rep for just under 380,000 miles from 1993 to 2005


First thing AFTER you have chosen the model and year of your project is you REALLY need to have a clear idea on just what you want out of the car.

I bought this as a mild runner with 220 rhp in 1993. By 1995 I was doing track days in it so it started the slipery slope of mods. I went up a couple notches. Changed out rear gears add on custom made wheels to go to bigger low profile tires wheels are replica's of stock 1968 wheels but are 15" over the 14's that came fom the factory

Around 1998 I blew my first engine after a 120 mph straight-a-way I dropped a valve. Engine #2 was a crate motorsport B302 motor with better heads, a bigger intake and dyno'ed around 260 if I rember right

Add in more upgrades to the suspention, change rear gears, add a modern 5spd Add on American Racing Torq thrust D wheels

2001 things go bigger on brakes, add in a 302 based stroker motor, 331 ci 364 rear wheel hp at 6,400 rpm and rev limiter set at 7k on the street and 7,200 on the track This engine was built in my Dads home garage by us using intake, carb, ( dyno shop tricked out this carb for the prior B302 motor) Distributor and headers.

Find a set of 16" Torque thrust D replicas to clear larger brakes, Wife walks in on conversion while "doing a brake job" See's 8 wheels with "R" spec tires Dad gets a free set of 15" torque thrust D wheels and some pretty fresh rubber to go on his Ranchero!

Do have a clear plan and work your plan. I did all of my work other than paint. I can tell you that I spent far more than buying a M3 new off of the lot.

I'm thinking of buying a 1966 GT Fairlane once I get back to work. I have a wife with MS that's nearly bedridden and I'm cook, cleaner, bread winner. I will most likely buy a finished car at this point due to lack of time. I will sell the Corvette that I bought with the funds from selling the Mustang. This car is almost perfect but I want a Manual trans. 1966 Ford Fairlane Coupe for sale | Hemmings Motor News

Great read and a neat car! I'm thinking whatever we do, it will be tame by comparison. Like you, I plan to do all of the work except paint... It will be tame because it will not be raced or taken to the drag strip, rather evening cruises and occasional shows.

Originally Posted by RWebb

the OP is asking about the 1st Gen

I drove one last year and it is pretty primitive - it was essentially just a body kit on a Falcon chassis - not to say it isn't fun tho

try to get your wife interested in one a little newer

How much newer? Never been a Mustang II or a Fox body fan. New Mustang's are nice ('06-) but that kind of defeats the point. My wife is pretty tough, so I'm not worried about her handling it... plus, from what I'm reading here there seems to be many options to improve handling. I guess, like anything, it just takes $$, right?

Originally Posted by pwd72s

The aftermarket is full of chassis/suspension upgrades for first gen. Mustangs...so I wouldn't let the "primitive" chassis bother me if the look of the first gen is what you like. You can have handling that will let you hang with Caymans in the twisties if that's your goal.

(edit) Randy may doubt this...so here's a link to visual proof
Cayman Interseries: Fast practice at Atlanta - YouTube

Of course, it's all a taste thing. But if you ask me, the first generation fastback is still the best looking Mustang ever...

Appreciate the thought... but again, it's a build for my wife, who really doesn't have any interest in hanging with Cayman's in the twisties. Although, now that you mention it, maybe I'm wrong.

Originally Posted by Cdnone1

Picked this next project up for under $1000 here in LA
Steve

Sweet!

Originally Posted by johnco

just about any mustang sheet metal part you could ever need at very good prices. well, for just about any car actually.
Auto Body Replacement Parts | Rust Repair Panels | Auto Body Panels

Thanks for the link!

Wow, appreciate the responses from everyone. I didn't realize I would get such a response! Going to go check out the links everyone provided now...

[mreid]

Here is the last Mustang I owned. Sold it to a guy in FL a few months ago. Completely rust free, Boss 347 crate engine (450 HP), TKO 600 5 speed, Currie 3.89 soft locker rear, 4 wheel pdb, R&P steering, and everything new. Just needed paint and reassembly.

[95avblm3]

Originally Posted by mreid

Here is the last Mustang I owned. Sold it to a guy in FL a few months ago. Completely rust free, Boss 347 crate engine (450 HP), TKO 600 5 speed, Currie 3.89 soft locker rear, 4 wheel pdb, R&P steering, and everything new. Just needed paint and reassembly.

Looks like a fun project. I like some of the details you put into (beside the drivetrain), like the steering wheel, guages, wheels... If you don't mind my asking, why did you sell? Was it rust free from the get go, or rust free after you made it that way?

[gacook]

For parts, check out Americanmuscle.com. They're who I use for all my parts ('09 Mustang), and their customer service/prices/etc. are akin to what we find here at Pelican. I'm not 100% positive they'll have everything you need for an older Mustang, but I'm pretty sure I saw old dates in the drop down menus when I was getting stuff for my car.

[pwd72s]

Jim,

I lifted this pic...just for you.

[Jim Bremner]

Originally Posted by pwd72s

Jim,

I lifted this pic...just for you.

Jones'n for a hardtop but damn that's a nice car.

[VincentVega]

My first car was a 67 Rustang, make sure you check the floors, front frame rails and cowl vents closely for rust. Dont just run you hand over the frame rails, bondo looks ok but sure isnt right. Brings back some memories.

[icemann427]

If you are just looking for something to do, fine. But I can guarantee you, that you can buy one for less than you can build one. Here's mine...

[pwd72s]

^^^That's it...the Mustang shape most pleasing to my eyes. Thanks for posting the pic.

[95avblm3]

Originally Posted by gacook

For parts, check out Americanmuscle.com. They're who I use for all my parts ('09 Mustang), and their customer service/prices/etc. are akin to what we find here at Pelican. I'm not 100% positive they'll have everything you need for an older Mustang, but I'm pretty sure I saw old dates in the drop down menus when I was getting stuff for my car.

Thanks... will definitely check it out.

Originally Posted by VincentVega

My first car was a 67 Rustang, make sure you check the floors, front frame rails and cowl vents closely for rust. Dont just run you hand over the frame rails, bondo looks ok but sure isnt right. Brings back some memories.

Yes, I understand early Mustangs have rust issues similar to our early 911s, if not worse. I'll take a magnet with me

Originally Posted by icemann427

If you are just looking for something to do, fine. But I can guarantee you, that you can buy one for less than you can build one. Here's mine...

Nice car... Blue is one of my favorite colors and I like the look of retro-styled wheels in modern sizes on vintage cars. With the right stance, the look is hard to beat. As far as buying v building... I guess you could say I like the project. Or maybe I am just a glutten for punishment. Either way, we'll probably end up with a project of some sort.

Originally Posted by pwd72s

^^^That's it...the Mustang shape most pleasing to my eyes. Thanks for posting the pic.

pwd: I checked out your thread of your son's Bullitt build. That is one sweet ride. It looks like y'all started with a pretty solid car, eh? The finished product was really nice looking... and I'm sure meaningful on a very personal level to you and your son. Thanks for sharing.

So, the plan was for me to finish my 911 and the Mustang for my wife would be the next project a couple of years down the road. What I left out of my original post was what prompted me to start the thread now... My wife's boss (a different boss than the one I bought my 911 from) has a couple of Mustang's that he potentially would like to sell. One is a complete restoration, looks nice but probably not the car for us since the work is done. The other car is a 64.5, numbers matching coupe... I was told by my wife that it is a V8 with 4-spd but the details of which are unknown. It is a project that has stalled. As I write this, I realize that I seem to be starting a trend of purchasing my wife's bosses stalled car projects... which with my 911 has been a character building experience. Call me a glutten for punishment but if the price is right (which is was for the 911)... No details other than what I have said but as I find out more, I'll share with the PPOT brain trust. We don't own it yet and it may not even be the right car but it sounds tempting and her boss sounds like he is overwhelmed with other projects/businesses.

[icemann427]

I've had wonderful service from both mustangdepot.com and mustangsunlimited.com. Both are class acts in the business. Americanmuscle.com is for newer cars and I don't believe services the first gen. Mustang.

Unless you get a killer deal on the coupe you are looking at, I would go with a fastback. Similarly built fastbacks sell for on average $15K more than a coupe. So, if you think there may come a time where you will want to sell it, you may want to go with a fastback.

[johnsjmc]

Here's a couple of mine . A 1966 Shelby clone . 347/450+hp.T5z,9 in etc. Added torque boxes,frame ties,original floors but trunk area had rusted .
The 65 6 cyl convert (bought for less than 6K on ebay had already had extensive floor and frame rust repair but was a very basic no option car.
All of the early cars are rust prone. Converts were worst.These were one of the first unibody cars and the panels were spotwelded and some sealer was smeared on. The cars weren,t even dipped or ecoated until 69 or 70. Southern cars are better but still rust prone.
The hardest spot to fix is the cowl area. Test by pouring a bucket of water into the hood vents and look under the dash for leaks. You can still be fooled by a seller who has slathered silicone up from under the dash but still a good easy test .
A company called dynacorn is now making complete replacment full bodies for less than 15K. These weren,t available in 1998 when I cut the roof off a rustfree Arizona coupe and used it to rebuild a rusty 66 convert I had at the time
I like to buy parts from CJ pony parts.

[gsxrken]

I don't care what they paid, someone got a good deal. That car has all the right bits.

Originally Posted by mreid

Here is the last Mustang I owned. Sold it to a guy in FL a few months ago. Completely rust free, Boss 347 crate engine (450 HP), TKO 600 5 speed, Currie 3.89 soft locker rear, 4 wheel pdb, R&P steering, and everything new. Just needed paint and reassembly.

[pwd72s]

Gotta clarify...the '68 restoration project I linked to was not mine....

[RWebb]

can you guys tell the OP the considerations in buying or avoiding an early car?

I posted re a very early one above, but when does early stop? rust vs. cost to fix vs. resale value...

[pwd72s]

Originally Posted by RWebb

can you guys tell the OP the considerations in buying or avoiding an early car?

I posted re a very early one above, but when does early stop? rust vs. cost to fix vs. resale value...

Probably better off to buy a new one....but that's not the point here, is it? It's not always about the money.

[johnsjmc]

Originally Posted by RWebb

can you guys tell the OP the considerations in buying or avoiding an early car?

I posted re a very early one above, but when does early stop? rust vs. cost to fix vs. resale value...

first gen is 64-66. there is a sub group of very early 65,s known as 64 1/2s.
2nd gen is 67-8 and some would include 69-70.
They got bigger and heavier after 70 and are not really collector cars kind of orphans like 2.7 mid year 911,s.
The car was available as a coupe and convert first with the fastback arriving in early mid 65.
I would avoid the 6 cyl cars and concentrate on v8 cars. early were 260 cid then 289,302,351 The big block engines appeared in 67up 390,428.
When looking at a car the vin is stamped on the inner dr side fender edge.
Vin breakdown shows yr body type factory and engine. There is additional data about trans and interior on a tag riveted to the dr door.
When the vin is missing under the hood it indicates the panel has been changed either from collision or rust damage.( common .the vin is also stamped on the inner fender on both sides closer to the cowl but a fender needs to be unbolted to see it.
The door tag is available in reproduction and in the case of high dollar cars K code 289 or big blocks with optional interiors it is worth having a pro look at it to attempt to verify authenticity,
There are premiums for factory GT equipped early cars. Package was avail with 4 barrel 289s and included fog lights,dual exhaust with trumpets and front disc brakes and slightly HD suspension. Disc and duals were avail by themselves.
There are many more GTs on the road today than Ford built because of the availability of cheap repro parts.
As I mentioned earlier rust rust rust. Cowl, floors, trunk floors . Doors lower front corners first for some reason. bottom of shock towers and below battery are also worth looking at.
They cranked out these cars so fast over a million were sold in something like 28 mo.
I have seen cars with missing undercoating inside one fender or another that tells me the worker was on break when his fender went by. seam sealer was applied sparingly and the underside was usually only sprayed in red oxide primer.
Lots of cars still out there and take your time and drive a few.
Most will be a combination restomod ,newer engines 5 speed etc and a number will be novice restorations . (best buy for a weekend driver is a car someone spent a ton on and then tired of it.)
I had a 1966 covert with factory GT and original engine I rebuilt on a rottiserie and when finished I was afraid to drive it,traded for a big block fastback in driveable condition

[onewhippedpuppy]

Originally Posted by RWebb

can you guys tell the OP the considerations in buying or avoiding an early car?

I posted re a very early one above, but when does early stop? rust vs. cost to fix vs. resale value...

They built over one million cars in less than the first two years of production. Buy a good one, because there's plenty of them out there.

[RWebb]

exactly - therefore, the value of a car that you throw $10,000 bills at is not likely to shoot upwards in the future

[Hydrocket]

Here's my brother's 1970 Mach 1. He did a full resto on it. It is one of 3 built that year that's blue on blue. Despite going to MANY Mustang car shows, this is still the only Mach 1 I've seen in person with a blue interior.