starting to look at garages

[9dreizig]

Would like to build this fall.. I"m thinking 40 x 60 or 50 x 60 all metal. Any suggestions as to companies to look at ?

[URY914]

go to http://www.garagejournal.com/

[MBAtarga]

I'm a Garage Journal member as well. Lot's of info over there to research.

[porsche4life]

Find a local builder Todd. The type of building you are looking for is not something that is shipped in. You guys get snow, don't use someone who cheats out out crappy trusses and such. You want 26ga steel sheets, not 29ga which is what the cheap builders wI'll quote you.

[9dreizig]

Great Paul,, I ask a simple question and you point my to a fantastic site that I can tell will cost me hundreds if not thousands of hours of surfing!!!! Very cool!!!
Good info Sid!!! when are you coming out ??

[porsche4life]

Not sure Todd. I'm pretty busy these days! I'd love to come up though.

[rfuerst911sc]

I have no personal experience with metal buildings but what I have read on the net is they can " sweat " if not properly insulated so you might want to keep that in mind. Some say spray foam insulation is the way to go not only to insulate but to help strengthen the structure. While you are in the planning stages you may want to consider a HVAC system so you can use the building year round. I just recently added HVAC to my 24 x 26 garage and it is very nice to be able to turn the AC up when hot out or heat on when cold out. Ceiling or wall mounted fans is nice also. And lighting is very important. And lastly plan on having a lift of some sort and plan the wiring/hydraulics before you pour the concrete pad. Have fun.

[onewhippedpuppy]

I totally agree with Sid, the national steel building companies will slap up a building for the cheapest cost possible then skip town. Find a good local contractor who at least has a reputation to uphold locally.

[Seahawk]

Originally Posted by onewhippedpuppy

I totally agree with Sid, the national steel building companies will slap up a building for the cheapest cost possible then skip town. Find a good local contractor who at least has a reputation to uphold locally.

I do as well. We had a stable build over ten years ago and looked at Morton Building, etc. The advice I received was find local. We did and the structure is still as sound as can be.

He knew the codes, we went and looked at his other work, etc.

Some advice from me that hasn't already been given or some I'd like to amplify:

Make sure to accommodate for growth, even if you don't think you want specific functions:

Plan on insulation and heating/cooling in advance.

Spec for twice the power amps and power out lets than you think you'll need.

Plan on a separate enclosure/outside enclosure and power for a large compressor.

If you can plumb for a toilet and sink, do it.

At least one door that opens electronically from the comfort of your car.

Fans and fan placement with power outlets...I use really high end ones mounted on the walls that are worth every penny.

Shelving plan/storage plan.

Etc.

Concerning Garage Journal there are a few current and former Pelican Parts folks over there. I am one of them though I rarely post. The level of expertise on that site is spell binding.

[ckelly78z]

My wife and I just got done finishing up our steel pole barn for a horse riding arena with 4 stalls 104'x60'. We got a kit from Menards that was pretty reasonable, and for the most part, put it up ourselves using some of my neighbor's heavy equipment, but having experienced help with the roof, and high metal.

I actually rented a 70 HP Bobcat with an 18" hole auger and set the upright posts myself in the 36 4' deep holes, we borrowed the neighbors telescoping boom 10,000 lb "gradeall" and I was the one who set the 60' long roof trusses carefully in place. I also borrowed a trencher and ran drainage tiles from each end of the barn to the creek, and a trench to run electrical wire in conduit, and our water line. We got it finished for about $30,000....compare that price to a company that does it all.

[bleucamaro]

I'm helping my dad with the construction of his "barn". It's 50x50 clear span with 12' plate height. He priced a turn key complete building, and doing it mostly ourselves will cost less than half. We subbed the final grading, concrete work, and steel work. Essentially it's pole barn construction that we've sided in wood. We completed the trenching last weekend, got sewer pipe and electrical conduit laid, and just pulled 280 ft of wire today. Electrical should be hooked up by the end of the week, and ready for final inspection shortly there after..



If you'd like to pick his brain or take a look at the building, I could pm you his number. Located in the Placerville area.

[Eric 951]

There area ton of manufacturers out there--but below should apply to any of them, based upon metal framing and metal cladding.

As Sid mentioned--26 GA minimum--24 GA is better. Check on the finishes--Kynar 500 is usually standard--vinyl plastisol is a better finish but also more expensive.

Vinyl-backed blanket insulation is good--WMP-10--4" thick with tabs on both sides--if insulating (recommended) figure liner panels on the inside up to at least 8' to protect.

For the roof, corrugated screw-down profiles are easier to install--if you go with standing seam, it is a better-looking profile, more difficult to install, and more expensive.

Figure louvers or wall supply fans to draw air in, roof exhaust or natural gravity vents to keep the air flowing--many pre-fab manufacturers use small ridge vents(12" throats) or "hurricane" style round vents.

Use a good butyl tape caulk on your roof laps (and if you want extra protection, use foam tape on the sidewall laps)

Many manufacturers provide self-drilling fasteners--usually #10 head size--I prefer #14 hex head w/ bonded washer self-tappers with an AB point (can be used in metal sheeting laps and as an iron screws) carbon steel is ok, 304 SS is better but more prone to stripping, 410 SS are the best, but can get pricey. Of course, with self-tappers, you will need to pre-drill everything(#1 bits and #11 bits). But, with self-drillers, they are easy to oblong the hole while installing or snap.

If you have decent building skills, a good set of tools(see below), some buddies, and access to a rental facility where you can get a 6,000# capacity extendable reach forklift, you can self-erect. The key is making sure you lay-out the anchor bolts correctly for the columns--I recommend Hilti for the bolts and epoxy to set. Level/plumb your columns use come-alongs/turnbuckles for temp. bracing and take your time. don't forget to grout your base plates after the columns are set.

recommended tools--screw guns, 1/2" drills with quality bits, chop saw with metal blade or 6" grinders with metal cut-off wheels, caulking guns, 6' levels, hammer drill (for anchor bolts), compressed air/vac to clean out the holes, 1/2" drive impacts to rattle up the bolts, impact sockets, 1/2" drive ratchets/sockets. spud wrenches, bull pins and 2-1/2# beaters, wire rope chokers/shackles to set/hoist the columns, trusses and girts nylon slings for the sheeting. come alongs, vise grips, #11 C-clamps, tape measures, and a mag drill or torch set if you need to modify any holes, and a reamer. (and safety glasses/face shields, ear plugs, gloves)

Study the drawings--double check the material packing list, check the structural members for correct punching, identify all pieces before you start.

[9dreizig]

This is all great info guys thanks!!!

[ckelly78z]

Get a lazer operated level system like the surveyors use to set your grade board's height, and measure not only the full square of the project, but cross corners also to get the project truly "square".

Tie a string line on the first post you set to the other corner marker on that side and attempt to move every corresponding post around in the hole to just graze the string while level, so while standing back, you can see that they all line up perfectly....it makes for flat, unwavy sides, and a stronger barn.

[fred cook]

I had a steel building put up 2-3 years ago to use as a shop. The slab is 24x40 with a carport on the south end. The building area is 24x28, roomy enough for 2 cars, several workbenches, a milling machine, air compressor and sets of metal shelving. I looked at and talked to several builders and finally settled on one that would put a 6 in 12 pitch roof on it. All walls and ceiling are insulated and the inside walls are paneled. It has one 3 foot steel door and a 16 foot wide overhead door, no windows. Lots of flourescent lights and 2 big ceiling fans. I added heat and a/c the next year. The only thing I would do different if done over would be to make the building about 5 feet longer. If you can, put the building where it will be in the shade at least part of the day. Doing so will save a lot of a/c costs. I had the electrical outlets run at about waist level so that I would not have to reach under work benches, etc. to plug in tools. It is nice to have a comfortable place to make repairs, wax and do other jobs.