How To Un-Dent a Copper Mailbox???

[Don Ro]

So with heat...do I use a micro torch, a bottle torch, or my heat gun?
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Un-denting this thing is no longer my big issue - pisses me off that I can't find my dollies & hammers...especially my dollies.
If I can get something of weight on the inside I think that I can bring it back decently.
Been using a section of round 3" fence post on the inside, and on the outside using my little brass hammer as well as a 1"x2" 10" long hardwood w/rounded corners for a paddle/hammer.
It's thick copper...not a flimsy mailbox.
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Thanks for the input, gents.
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So far - -
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[id10t]

That looks great. No more major trauma.

Maybe a mild acid treatment to give the whole thing a consistent "used" look/finish?

[wdfifteen]

Those are the stretched areas. You need to shrink it, you can't just pound on it from here. Heat it and pound the outside of the dimples toward the center from the edges while holding a dolly against them on the inside. The basic problem is you have .5 inch of metal to fit in .49 of space because the process of denting it stretched the copper. You can't just pound on it and make that go away.

[Mark Henry]

Once you have it done you need to clean it with something like alcohol (do a search) as the oils from your hands, etc., will make funny marks as the green patina appears.

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

Those are the stretched areas. You need to shrink it, you can't just pound on it from here. Heat it and pound the outside of the dimples toward the center from the edges while holding a dolly against them on the inside. The basic problem is you have .5 inch of metal to fit in .49 of space because the process of denting it stretched the copper. You can't just pound on it and make that go away.

Heat it with a heat gun, micro torch, or a bottle torch? Does it matter?
And heat the entire damaged area or just the small area I'm hitting?
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"...outside of dimples..." Do you mean to tap on the high side of the dimples from the outside of the box?...against something held on the inside?
Thanks for the attention.

[craigster59]

Get some liver of sulfur from the local hobby store (Michael's, Hobby Lobby) to give it patina and call it a day.

[ben parrish]

I figured you would have used "$5 and a beer" to fix the dent

[Porsche-O-Phile]

I'd grab my small 4 ounce hammer and go to town on it to get a neat bush-hammered look going on. Lemons to lemonade. I bet it'd look awesome that way too.

Something like this: http://mailboxnet.com/clearance/mb5hplcp.html

[wdfifteen]

Originally Posted by Don Ro

Heat it with a heat gun, micro torch, or a bottle torch? Does it matter?
And heat the entire damaged area or just the small area I'm hitting?
.
"...outside of dimples..." Do you mean to tap on the high side of the dimples from the outside of the box?...against something held on the inside?
Thanks for the attention.

The area inside the red circle has been stretched. To get the dimensions of the area inside the green line back to what it was, you have to shrink the red area. Heat the metal inside the red area with the smallest heat source that will get it hot fast and still limit the heat to that area. This will make the red area malleable while the metal outside green area is still stiff and will resist movement. Bumping the malleable area, while surrounded by a stiff area will give the metal no choice but to compress. Heat transfer is a time dependent phenomenon, so you have to work fast and probably try more than one iteration, letting it cool between tries. A heat sink outside the green area to keep that area cool and stiff will help. Let the metal cool slowly, fast cooling will make it brittle.
Make sense?

[enzo1]

Patina Formulas for Brass, Bronze and Copper

[manbridge 74]

Next time fill a bag full of water, put it inside closing door. Stand it vertical and stick it outside in temps around zero degrees. Oh wait.....

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by wdfifteen

The area inside the red circle has been stretched. To get the dimensions of the area inside the green line back to what it was, you have to shrink the red area. Heat the metal inside the red area with the smallest heat source that will get it hot fast and still limit the heat to that area. This will make the red area malleable while the metal outside green area is still stiff and will resist movement. Bumping the malleable area, while surrounded by a stiff area will give the metal no choice but to compress. Heat transfer is a time dependent phenomenon, so you have to work fast and probably try more than one iteration, letting it cool between tries. A heat sink outside the green area to keep that area cool and stiff will help. Let the metal cool slowly, fast cooling will make it brittle.
Make sense?

"Make sense?"
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Yes it does.
I have a micro torch that I'll use...no dry ice but I have plenty of ice 'n rags.
Thanks for taking the time to draw this up & to write this.
The check is in the mail.
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Second thought...I"ll send you a copy of that Chicago hotel scene.

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by enzo1

Patina Formulas for Brass, Bronze and Copper

Nice.
Thanks for this!

[Don Ro]

BTW, in my searching I found this...some good basic stuff...short 'n sweet.
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http://neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/2885-Dent%20&%20Bulge%20Removal.pdf
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This day I've become fascinated with PDR...an art form.
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This is nifty...
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The Dent Eraser

[1990C4S]

Heat and ice is a bad idea for a beginner....you could make it a LOT worse. Be careful.

[Don Ro]

Originally Posted by 1990C4S

Heat and ice is a bad idea for a beginner....you could make it a LOT worse. Be careful.

Yeah...thanks.
I ought to have waited until the Pelican wisdom showed up...that, and sought more info.
I'll snap a photo soon ...I think I may be done w/this...the side with the dent - and now my "un-denting" - will be close to the wall at my front entry so it won't show.
I just wanted to have some fun and experience w/it.
Not sure what I'll do with faux patina...I love the look of copper 'n brass together so I may just may leave it and let it age on its own...or hit it with some semi-gloss clear 'n be done w/it.

[unclebilly]

You should have used a rubber hammer on that sharp crease first. You do not want to stretch the metal any worse than it already was, which you did...

Worst case, put some if those bucket hole stickers on it...

[Don Ro]

"...bucket hole stickers on it..."
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You mean bullet hole?
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I did use a rubber mallet (1 1/2") from inside and outside...with a block of 3" fence post for backing on the inside and a block of wood on the outside for backing.
As I said, I couldn't find my dollies & hammers...and just as well, I guess...I would have made a mess, methinks.
I'll take a photo when I done/tired of it all. I'm becoming satisfied with what I've done.
Thanks.

[dad911]

Hide the dent:

[Tidybuoy]

Maybe you could search on YouTube and find a video of the dent doctor and how the massage the metal to pull out dents in cars.