My man cave build - Page 2

Salty Springs · Salty Springs's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Seahawk

One other thing. After looking at your site, I would thing about putting garage doors on both ends of the shop, even if the one end does not have drive-in access.

The ability to completely open the storage area in the last picture above has been great for ventilation, in my case drive through and a sense of openness working in the shop on nice days.

I now do all maintenance on that side because of the open space.

^^^ This. My personal dbl garage has an overhead door and a service door. I get a great breeze thru them. I spend most of my time in my garage/office. Would be unbearable without the two opposing doors.
Dave

VincentVega · 11-20-2017, 11:31 AM

Cross breeze is nice but unless your space is huge its tough. If you have doors on the back, where is your bench and tools? I planned to have a drive through then once I figured rear door tracks, lighting, layout... I just went with a rear man door and 2 windows. Windows are nice but they always seem to block my tools/shelves/whatever. I like 1 window for some air and/or a window AC and if you really want the light put them high and out of the way. For light I have tons of t8's, works great.

Seahawk · 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VincentVega

Cross breeze is nice but unless your space is huge its tough. If you have doors on the back, where is your bench and tools?

The beauty of these threads is the diversity of opinions...gold, Jerry, gold.

Everything in my shop space that isn't a cabinet rolls, benches, tables, the works. A lot of the other work tops, welding tables, etc., hang and are carried to work. The most useful item I own is an adjustable metal rolling table I put battery chargers, small stuff, tools, tire compressors on when I need them...roll to the task. I just replaced the OEM wheels with significantly larger wheels.

Mongo isn't as flexible as before

This build will be fun to follow.

rfuerst911sc · 11-20-2017, 01:39 PM

In my previous garage I had three air hose reels , two inside the garage and one outside in the front . I also had two coil type hoses on either side they were mostly just for filling tires as they are small diameter and don't carry much volume . I am a firm believer in making it as easy as possible to use my air tools . If it is a hassle then you end up not using them .

My air tools were easy to get to ( not buried ) so all I had to do was flip on the compressor , roll out the closest hose reel to what I was working on , plug in the tool and ready to go . This garage will be done the same way . Each vertical drop had a ball valve at the very bottom of a tee so each drop could be drained of moisture if needed . Everything had quick connects so very easy to add/delete/swap items if needed .

As I get older and supposedly wiser

I find using as an example an air powered ratchet much easier on the hands/wrists/arms than conventional ratchet . Air powered lug guns are the cats ass for removing lug nuts but I still hand torque when installing . Zip wheels are much easier to cut things than a hacksaw . I am a one man army so have to preserve the old body

tcar · 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RKDinOKC

Also watched another home being built that the exterior walls were styrofoam forms and filled with rebar and concrete. The forms were designed with tabs to attach masonry on the outside and framing on the inside. So the house had rock veneer, the layer of foam, 4 nches of concrete the layer of foam and then regular framing.....

"I.C.E. Block" or "Smartblock"... been around for years.

They are the concrete forms and stay in place after the pour.

908/930 · 908/930's Garage

I ended up not putting in any windows and like it, but have lots of led bulbs, would suggest a 6 or 8 inch vortex type fan to move air through and out when you want to, are you in a windy area? A possible option for the compressor is to run the intake of the compressor after the filter through a automotive muffler to quiet it down.

For drywall if you are after mass, use some fire rated 5/8, about twice the weight of 1/2 lite, but does have glass strands through it, keep that in mind when cutting it.

If you have time, wet down and run a small 150lb plate tamper over the surface, that will compact the surface more then driving on it.

908/930 · 908/930's Garage

I am not a expert but, where your floor changes depth from 5.5 to 9 inch, try to make that a gradual transition, there is a good chance that it will stress crack if there is a sharp corner there, 5/8 rebar will help solve any problems.

Reiver · 11-20-2017, 07:14 PM

Looks like a great place for Ranger Studs to warm up....

VincentVega · 11-20-2017, 08:09 PM

I started using a 1/4" cordless impact all the time and really only use air for the whee gun, cutters and so on, never for my old 1/4 or 3/8 impacts. Quiet, no hoses, compressor doesnt run as much, love it. Good idea about an enclosure for the compressor. Easy enough to box in with some foamboard, drywall or whatever you have on hand. Roxul works great for noise, and isnt flammable, 1 bag should do it. Just make sure you have a baffle or opening for fresh air.

rfuerst911sc · 11-21-2017, 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 908/930

I am not a expert but, where your floor changes depth from 5.5 to 9 inch, try to make that a gradual transition, there is a good chance that it will stress crack if there is a sharp corner there, 5/8 rebar will help solve any problems.

The transition from 5.5 to 9 is gradual and a little angular/rounded so I think I'll be OK .

rfuerst911sc · 11-21-2017, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reiver

Looks like a great place for Ranger Studs to warm up....

Not a clue what this means ?

rfuerst911sc · 11-21-2017, 02:15 AM

908/930 I do have three wall mounted fans I think they are about 16 or 18 inch blades that I removed from my previous garage . I made the mistake of having them mounted too high in my last garage . In this garage I will mount them maybe 5 ' above the floor . The wall mounts allow movement side to side and the fan mount allows movement up/down so they are adjustable . They are 3 speed and move a decent amount of air .

I purchased the exact same Mitsubishi mini split that I had in my previous garage . It worked great there and was very economical to run . This garage I'm building now is just 2 ' deeper and the same width and similar ceiling height but will have better ( thicker ) walls so I expect even better results . In my previous garage I could walk out in 95 degree temps , turn on the AC and 15-20 minutes later be cool enough to work in ! And same results in cold weather.........keep in mind cold weather in GA. is the 20's - 30's.......... ABOVE zero

Next week can't get here fast enough to get this floor poured !!!

jhynesrockmtn · 11-21-2017, 04:49 AM

My shop has been a work in progress for two years. I made a big mistake in not getting the walls finished before I had to move stuff in. It was a lack of funds, lack of experience, etc. Finally getting the drywall up so I can go through my crap and get stuff on shelves and make it more use-able. 40ft by 30ft. I put in two doors including the 12 footer as the theory was I was going to store the RV in there. That has changed as the cars have multiplied. I put radiant heat in. I did windows more because it is a residential neighborhood and I wanted it to look less shop like. The windows have bars on the inside. Getting close!

rfuerst911sc · 11-21-2017, 09:51 AM

So this morning I decide to go to a local lumber liquidator we want to replace two sets of sliders with French doors in our house . Anyway I'm like a kid in a candy store

and left with four windows and one entry door for the man cave . Windows are vinyl single hung 24 x 36 and entry door standard 36 x 80 with a half moon glass for additional natural lighting . Just over 500.00 for all so a pretty good deal .

They also sell concrete siding for a very reasonable price so I may have to rethink my exterior finish choice .

john70t · 11-21-2017, 11:22 AM

Though not 'fancy' that is a nicely sorted place(and toy collection) jhynesrockmtn. Very functional and fung shui.
Not sure about the two porches but that sure is a picturesque view.

Considering the $ you put into radiant floors, I'm guessing those exposed 2x4 wall studs framework might be a thermal bridge and letting the cold in?
Perhaps some kind of heat tape or foam/other insulators before dry walling would help block the transfer, and stop airflow around the edges of the batt?

rfuerst911sc · 11-21-2017, 01:11 PM

Hey guys while I'm killing time waiting on the concrete pour lets discuss work benches . In my last garage I built a 16 ' long work bench she was a beauty

. But because of it's size it was VERY easy to use it as a catch all storage space

. I had two bench vices ( which I still have ) mounted on each end . So how long of a work bench is considered good enough ?

I'm not going to be doing major rebuilds or projects ( that I know of

) so is a bench 10 - 12 ' sufficient ? I want to use the least amount of real estate but still big enough for most " average " projects . Between the Gladiator cabinets , the work bench , the two post lift I want to use the space as efficiently as I can . Would love to see some pics of what you guys have done .

Rich Lambert · Rich Lambert's Garage

For me, 16' would be the absolute minimum for a work bench. My last garage had a 16 footer and that was good for working on 2 projects at a time. My current garage has 50' of workbench where I could work on 10 things at a time, but like you said, it's really easy to throw a lot of crap on there.

If you're really concerned about space utilization, you could do a 10' permanent bench with some Jack Olsen-esque fold down (or up) extensions on the ends.

masraum · 11-22-2017, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

Hey guys while I'm killing time waiting on the concrete pour lets discuss work benches . In my last garage I built a 16 ' long work bench she was a beauty

. But because of it's size it was VERY easy to use it as a catch all storage space

. I had two bench vices ( which I still have ) mounted on each end . So how long of a work bench is considered good enough ?

I'm not going to be doing major rebuilds or projects ( that I know of

) so is a bench 10 - 12 ' sufficient ? I want to use the least amount of real estate but still big enough for most " average " projects . Between the Gladiator cabinets , the work bench , the two post lift I want to use the space as efficiently as I can . Would love to see some pics of what you guys have done .

Have you studied Jack Olsen's 12 Gauge Garage for ideas?

It is, of course, pretty awesome. He's got a few threads here about some of his builds, but it's got it's own website too.

One of the things that I thought was really cool (that may not be as useful for you due to space) are the fold up workspaces. He had a couple of solid wood doors that he hung on the wall, I think with large piano hinges that were flat against the wall when not in use, but could fold out when needed.

You're space is going to be very different, so some of the things that he did that seemed like clever uses of space in a small attached garage may just be extra work or not that useful in a larger garage/workshop like you're going to have.

masraum · 11-22-2017, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich Lambert

For me, 16' would be the absolute minimum for a work bench. My last garage had a 16 footer and that was good for working on 2 projects at a time. My current garage has 50' of workbench where I could work on 10 things at a time, but like you said, it's really easy to throw a lot of crap on there.

If you're really concerned about space utilization, you could do a 10' permanent bench with some Jack Olsen-esque fold down (or up) extensions on the ends.

Hah, I clearly should have read the very last post before I posted mine...

rfuerst911sc · 11-23-2017, 03:46 AM

Hey guys Happy Thanksgiving ! Yes I have seen the Jack Olsen garage and it is impressive for space utilization . I will probably end up building a 14 - 16 ' bench and practice more discipline to NOT use it as a shelf

. So this is the rough idea I have on how the garage will look . First off the first 4 ' off the floor on the walls will be corrugated metal installed vertically , a metal wainscote look . From the top of the metal to the ceiling will either be plywood or OSB . I like using wood vs. sheetrock as it frees up the options to be able to mount anything anywhere not just on the studs . Above the wainscote on one side will be USA red/white/blue stripes and the other side will be German black/red/gold stripes maybe 3 ' high . Above that will be white to the ceiling .

The Gladiator metal cabinets are a grey/black color so will look good with this " theme "

. After all it is a man cave ! The back wall will probably stay white . The wall mounted fans are black and if I go with track lights that will all be black also . For the ceiling I'm leaning towards white metal roof panels . I had that in the last garage and it is fairly light to hang , strong when screwed to the rafters and basically never needs painting . It also reflects light very well . I have a good amount of Porsche posters to hang on the walls to finish her off .