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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fresno, CA
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Advice: Concrete Expansion Joint for Concrete butted up to Asphalt.
I need to know if I should use some type of edging beteen concrete and asphalt.
Below picture shows my project (still have to dig a few inches deeper). I'm putting an expansion joint between the garage cement and the new drain cement. I was previously told that I don't need any expansion joint between the cement and asphalt. However, I'm concerned that I won't have a nice clean edge on that side, due to the inperfections in the old asphalt. Any thoughts? I was thinking of putting a very thin strip of wood (like 1/8 inch) just to create a clean concrete edging and then fill in with asphalt after the concrete hardens. I could also use very thin galvanized flashing since I have some of that laying around. ![]() |
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Get off my lawn!
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Are termites or wood ants a problem there? Wood on the ground is just a buffet for a lot of insects.
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Glen 49 Year member of the Porsche Club of America 1985 911 Carrera; 2017 Macan 1986 El Camino with Fuel Injected 350 Crate Engine My Motto: I will never be too old to have a happy childhood! |
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Location: So. Cal.
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Is the slab on the right in the picture asphalt? It looks like an old concrete slab to me. Maybe it's just how it looks in the photo. If it were me, I think I'd insert some standard expansion joint material between the new concrete and the asphalt(?) slab. Since it seems to be pretty cracked, a layer of the black expansion joint material would give you an easy interface if you decide to replace it later on.
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Quote:
The wood siding in the picture is actually 1" off the ground. The siding is 70 year old redwood and has not had any termite issues. The only termite issues I've had is where a repair was made with douglas fir. The light blue boards in my photo show some damage at the bottom which is where the old rain gutters down spout exited. These boards are being replaced and the down spout was moved. |
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I would have use the deck o drain for the joint. You should be able to find a Styrofoam material that gets put in place and the top 1/2" gets pulled out after the concrete sets, the 1/2 void gets filled with a concrete chalk.
Dont forget to pull the deck o drain up to level with existing concrete /w Slight fall for drainage. |
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Quote:
I don't want to use the drain for the joint. The manufacturer recommends a min of 4" concrete on each side as well as underneath which will prevent any movement when driving over. Any movement will cause the drain to break over time. I'm going to sink the drain 1/4" below the new concrete and then slope the concrete to the drain (if that makes sense). Last edited by Tidybuoy; 12-18-2017 at 09:51 AM.. |
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Brew Master
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I say when in doubt use the expansion joint I don't think you can go wrong using it where it wasn't needed but you CAN go wrong by not using it in a place where it was needed.
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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they put a drain in here at work like that. no joint,.
the concrete is stronger than the asphalt if that helps. not a concrete expert but I would not use one.
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construction felt board. that's what it is for.
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Swimming pool cool-deck expansion joints. Have them around my house that was built for/by a Los Angeles swimming pool company owner. White PVC kinda stuff. Seems to last forever in the direct sun. Comes in colors too. Some have water drains built-in.
![]() Last edited by Borders Reivers; 12-18-2017 at 12:24 PM.. |
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Deja Vu? Next Project, seeking advice: Channel Drain
If you can't fix low spot in slab, my comments are below in red: Quote:
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Thanks, I've got a pack of the expansion joint boards...I had just not heard the term construction felt board. I've followed/following your other advice.
I think it's just a slow Monday - too many Christmas Parties this last weekend. I really just need a nap. |
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