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This repair is behind me. My Turrets is worsening however.
I have a couple pieces yet to fit but I'm going to leave them open until I can get all that media blast crap OUT! I bore scoped the rest (rust sniffing dog) of the voids so I can stop writing these "I found more rust" posts. This has/is a good project for me so that I can own a Porsche like I've always wanted but this is more likely a better example of what NOT to buy. (unless the price is right of course) It still amazes me there are people that take on much worse. Fabulous fabrication Batman! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272487557.jpg Frankensteined back together http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272487592.jpg Remnants... what a mess! What's lurking inside your car? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1272487642.jpg |
Great work! I've just done a similar job, but with the advantage of the floor pan off.
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sub'd..... I have alot of similar repairs to make on my '66 :)
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Go get 'em 78SCRSMAN.....we're all behind you.
Great progress so far. Hang in there and you'll have the car you always wanted. Watching your progress. Good luck my man. :D |
Progress Update!!!
Thanks for the kind words all.
Here are some photos of the repairs made to the front fender well areas. The PO had done some things that I didn't quite care for so I decided to source some sheet metal and replace it! First section (both sides needed the same treatment) Out with the old, in with the new. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275659678.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275659759.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275659815.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275659868.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275659932.jpg |
Updates Cont.
Here is some gap work. I got this idea from a thread Freddie Hernandez posted on a repaint of someones car. On the passenger side, the gap was too large near the top and along the edge so I welded the edge of the door until it was looking good and ground it down to perfection. The drivers door had a short section near the bottom trailing edge (bottom curve) where the gap was too tight so I ground the edge back and welded the seam back together, then ground it to shape.
I should mention I'm using new door bushings and pins. Here are the results of the passenger side. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275660467.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275660541.jpg For the record, I really have no idea what I'm doing on this as I haven't done this sort of work before (at least not to this extent) I wanted to make sure I could get the gaps correct before I start spraying primer on anything. I figure once I have Epoxy Primer on the panels, I'll re-mount the fenders, doors and front hood for a final gap check and the fenders will stay on for the remainder of the paint job. I'll remove the hood and doors to paint them separate. Gaps are looking good now... ***Notice the fuel filler cup has been removed, never to return!*** http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275661012.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1275661084.jpg |
It feels like I'm in a race now. I've had to remove the remainder of the undercoat from inside the rear fender wells. I was told the media blast would take care of it but apparently not. That stuff sucks to remove so in case I didn't mention it before... remove all that you don't want on there before having your car blasted!!!
Anyway, I'm getting some flash rust in places now so I gots to hurry and get some primer on this thing! (normally it's warm and dry here this time of year but we've been getting LOTS of rain so lots of moisture in the air... please turn it off, thanks) Most of the body filler will be applied on top of the Epoxy Primer but I'm using an Evercoat product called Metal 2 Metal on some spots the factory used Lead to fill and some spots where the filler needs to be a bit thicker. This stuff works great and is VERY tough. I hope to be spraying primer within the next two weeks... until then. |
Some people on the board here are using PickleX to prevent (and remove?) flash rusting. Let us know what you end up doing about this.
Keep up the good work. Tim |
yep... the picklex20 seems to keep the metal looking clean, altho the air in Calgary is very dry.
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I thought about using Picklex but the flashing is VERY minor (confined to just a couple spots) also just talked to the man at SPI (where I'm getting paints from) and he says not to worry. I'm about two weeks out now from primer. He said NOT to use ANY kind of rust converter prior to Epoxy. Says to simply go over it w/80 grit paper and done.
Usually it's very dry here too. (70's to 80's and sunny) We've been stuck in the sixties for weeks... getting old. |
Back in Black!
I thought I'd post some photos of my setup. The first pic shows the air supply I'm using. The copper trombone pipe is made out of 3/4 plumbing pipe. It's job is to slow down and cool the air causing water in the line to condense and collect in one of two down legs. Each leg has a valve to relieve the H2O. Finally it goes into a water seperator before exiting through the hose and high volume air fittings. The reason for all of this is my compressor is rated at 7cfm so it will be running frequently which causes a lot of condensation in the lines. FYI, The second valve has never yielded any water.
The next couple of photos are of the filtered incoming air and the other is also filtered before exiting through one of five vans. It all seems to work very well. The dust on the floor is minimal and simply sweeps up. (check out the clean spot) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276722797.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276722840.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276722903.jpg My work bench: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276722966.jpg |
Before and after views...
Oops, this should have been in the previous post.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723184.jpg Back to the nitty gritty... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723276.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723361.jpg I must say that rotisserie is quite the ding ding. It sure makes this whole deal go a lot easier. If you are doing something similar, you'll be killing yourself if you don't have one. I'll be selling this one when I'm done but you can make your own if need be. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723413.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723470.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276723504.jpg |
Hi Derek,
What is the black stuff ,Por15? You won the war aginst the evil rust, great work. Are you going to add a roll bar also? |
Thanks, the black is Epoxy Primer sprayed from an old HVLP w/1.5 tip, no plans for a roll bar... maybe a bolt-in later.
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Hi Derek,
Do you have the before repair picture of this section? Just curious. Thanks.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276908508.jpg |
How did you remove the undercoating in the rear wheel wells and up under the quarters?
Did you have it on the rotisserie while doing the panels? I've had some people tell me not to put mine on a rotisserie while doing rockers, longitudinals, etc because the car will flex. |
dtaken... there are a couple photos on page two of those areas. Let me know if you need something specific and I'll have a looksee.
sfoster... I used a wire wheel mounted to an electric grinder, some scrapers (sharp) and a needle scaler from Harbor freight (small one) to get the undercoating off. It is a very time consuming, dirty and sometimes painful job. Those little wires shoot out at you from time to time so wear something that covers all of you AND safety glasses. ;) Yes, I did the majority of my metal work while the car was on the rotisserie but took it off for the frontal fender/bumper mount repairs and also to align the door and fender gaps for the final time... just in case. I didn't have any rocker repairs to make but if I had, I would have dismounted it and also used some bracing just to be sure. I hope that helps. Derek |
thanks Derek. the small needle scaler is a good idea. I couldn't figure out how to get up there with a grinder - just doesn't fit. Not looking forward to it.
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nice...nice...NICE! did you decide on the final color?
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Yes... I chose the 2010 Sport Classic Grey or AKA, Beige Grey, an old 356 color as I understand. I sprayed the trunk and engine compartment already and will have some photos soon.
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Your work is inspiring me to get my rear in gear again. I'm doing much the same work (although less of it....knock on wood) on a '67 912 shell.
And yes, the rotissory makes a huge difference. Good work. Ron |
Updates Cont.
Igfastr... thanks.
Here is where I'm at so far: I have the undercoat applied to the fender wells, the engine bay and trunk area are painted the body color (due to time constraints with the epoxy primer), and the first coat of sandable primer has been sprayed on the tub, doors and fenders. Bodywork is finished save for the front hood which still needs to be media blasted. The last photo is a bit of Independence day cheer taken from my 40D. ;) Oh yeah, I decided on a Getty ducktail... great product and fit! Check ebay, I did and saved $140 over their normal price! Time to let the dust fly... first block sand will be 180 grit... til' then. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278862532.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278862664.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278862700.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278862735.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278862772.jpg |
A few updates:
Well I've been pluging away at this and here's where I'm at... The body has been blocked w/180 and re-primed. Awaiting final blocking w/320 & 600 All of the unattached parts have been Painted, Sanded w/1500 and buffed once! Yep, getting close to the big dance. I've learned a few things with the first panels. Check for pinholes in your primer vary carefully... if you have some, sand more and/or spray more primer if need be. What has happened is there were some small pinholes in the primer and have become evident in the clear as tiny craters as I call them. You need to get very close and have the right light to see them but there are 6-12 of these on each panel. Thankfully I chose a lighter color (Black was my original choice) so they don't show up. Anyway, I will be scrutinizing the primer much closer before painting the color as well as spraying 4 coats of clear just in case I miss something, I can safely sand them flat! Overall, I'm very happy with my garage spray job... so far. Here are some money shots: Bunch of stuff ready for paint http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284133917.jpg |
A few updates:
Well I've been pluging away at this and here's where I'm at... The body has been blocked w/180 and re-primed. Awaiting final blocking w/320 & 600 All of the unattached parts have been Painted, Sanded w/1500 and buffed once! Yep, getting close to the big dance. I've learned a few things with the first panels. Check for pinholes in your primer vary carefully... if you have some, sand more and/or spray more primer if need be. What has happened is there were some small pinholes in the primer and have become evident in the clear as tiny craters as I call them. You need to get very close and have the right light to see them but there are 6-12 of these on each panel. Thankfully I chose a lighter color (Black was my original choice) so they don't show up. Anyway, I will be scrutinizing the primer much closer before painting the color as well as spraying 4 coats of clear just in case I miss something, I can safely sand them flat! Overall, I'm very happy with my garage spray job... so far. Here are some money shots: Bunch of stuff ready for paint http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284133917.jpg I decided to paint one side at a time and used a trick someone taught me awhile back. You tape along the bottome side of the panel you're painting, leaving the tape to stickout slightly. Reverse the procedure when painting the other side. The edge ends up slightly less than smooth but there will be no tape lines. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284134659.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284134801.jpg The jams turned out great. No runs yet... Look at that gloss! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284134931.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284134991.jpg Got some color down and now getting ready to shoot some stripes. Not a task I recommend doing sober. :) Lots of colorful language going on here. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284135215.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284135261.jpg |
I used the traditional, wet sanding for two hours minimum and buff for another hour or so... on each panel! Method. Yet to come is another hour with the swirl remover for that perfect deep shine.
Here's where I started. That inevetible orange peel. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284136058.jpg After sanding a couple hours w/1500 and a spray bottle of water. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284135709.jpg The final pruduct after an hour of compounding. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284135976.jpg Here's how the stripes turned out. The hood is ready for compounding and the duck still needs the full treatment. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284136277.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284136324.jpg |
Very nice! Going for the full-bore limited edition "Sport Classic" look eh? I like it! I'm obviously biased, but I love the color too.:) My last proj:http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284149595.jpg
You're going to have to give me tips on painting when I'm at that stage - nice work. |
Thanks, that's the direction I'm heading with this. I'm used to seeing stripes that go all the way around the bumper like a big ribbon. When I saw the Sport Classic I thought the stripes were very classy. I decided to adopt the idea and the color. ;)
Glad I did! Love your car. where in WA are you? |
Interested in buying your rotisserie after your done!
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On the dark, cold and rainy side! Just north of Seattle in Mukilteo.
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subscribed. nice work!!
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Rotisserie will be for sale but probably only for local sale. It weighs a lot and is homemade. I can send you some pictures if you're interested in making one. Shipping might be cost prohibitive? :)
blee Lived over there for 8 years... it's sunny here... still. We like to take short trips over there sometimes just for fun. Can't wait to take this car on one! |
Here's a hood shot... next time it will be bolted to the car! The tub is now ready for cleanup and taping off AGAIN for paint. It required 16 hrs of my time to block w/400 and again w/600. This is very rewarding work but has required so much time... that first rock chip is gonna kill me.:eek:
Here ya go: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1284957091.jpg |
Dang - that's nice work Derek! Did you use Glasurit?
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Thanks, I'm very anxious to see the car painted and the doors, hoods etc. on the car. I'm running out of time (weather) so the bumpers will need to wait till spring.
The paint is SPI stuff (aka: Southern Polyurethane's) products. Only the basecoat is Martin Senour, TEC line. (their top-o-the line paint) |
Got the color on today and the stripes... clear is tomorrow! I must say, painting the body is much more challenging than I was hoping for. It's just so much bigger than the doors and hoods. The rotisserie is key... still.
The strange coloring is due to the lighting. More pics tomorrow. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285289236.jpg |
It's done!?!... well almost. I have 4 coats of clear on and have yet to block and buff. I'll wait a week or two for that.
After the second coat, I had zero runs and it was looking pretty good to go all the way. The 4th coat produced a few runs that will need to be sanded. I think I slowed down a bit on the last two coats as I used more paint than the first two. Oh well, this is why I chose a Base/Clear method. :D I'll post a few more pics when the whole thing has been blocked, buffed and polished to a high gloss. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285526370.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1285526426.jpg |
Fabulous work!
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Amazing work so far... It's going to be a stunner!
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Woohoo!
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