3.6 conversion motor ; part 5-2

Kevin Stewart · 02-28-2003, 09:50 PM

Seeing jacks and pauls up dates made me go out and work today on the 3.6, sorry so long been real sick for almost three weeks so i havent worked on the car.

Heres my updates, first if your using the new airetek filter you have to turn the air flow meter counter clock wise about 1/3 turn so that it doesnt rub the intake manifild. Bolt the plastic adapter on the AFM. Unbolt the rubber stop that the old air box rested on and screw the L shaped bracket down under the rubber stop. You will have to bend and reshape the bracket some to get it to fit, it will bolt to the lower right corner if the AFM with the plastic adapter on.

engine tin is pretty straight forward. You will have to bend the rear tin into shape a little. the sides have three 10mm screws. i would put the front tin (by tranny) on after I put the exhaust on so you can get at those front bolts or its a mother.

The exhaust im using is B&B headers that are for a carrera with 1-5/8 pipes. The rear (torwards muffler) heat inlets are round and the 3.6 heat pipe is oval. I rested the pipe on a 4x4 and slowly rounded the oval shape round. I also cut small V shaped sections to reduce the size so the rubber hose will be the same size on both parts. I used new oe gaskets that reminded me of a crush collar for a ford rear end.

Installing wide bodies Heat tub, i put the large end in first then the small end by the fan using a screw driver sliding under the rubber gasket to pull it over the heat tube.

The muffler is a B&B dual in single out. Jack says they are real loud when converted to duals. He said he is using a flow master and reduced the size on the tail pipes and it is quieter. Jump in here jack if im wrong. I have a friend that welds stainless so ill have him add the other pipe for duals. I plan to reduce the tail pipes down to 2.5 inches. Everyone says they have a droning tone but the cars a cab so its loud inside anyway.

Almost forgot, you can see the steel extension tube for the s hose its painted silver and the shiny pipe is the ? pipe. I still have a bracket to make to mount the muffler and a bracket to mount the 3.6 heat tube to exchanger. It moved over about two inches to the right from stock. Any questions let me know. I should be cruising along again but i have a car show the race cars gonna be in and it has to be detailed, Kevin

Jack Olsen · 02-28-2003, 10:00 PM

I have the B&B dual-in, dual-out muffler currently. Because of its massive 3-inch outlets, it resonates like a dentists's drill between 2000 and 3500 rpm. I had the two outlets reduced to 2 inches to eliminate the resonance.

A B&B single outlet is going to be quieter than a dual-out. My advice would be to see how you like the single outlet before you add a second hole, and expand that outlet hole from the size of a nickel on up, cautiously, testing in between cuts.

Kevin Stewart · 02-28-2003, 10:11 PM

Jack looking at the single out you can tell they use the same muffler for both single and dual outs, theres an inprint of a circle on one side but no hole. I have a C2 turbo bumper with dual cut outs so i have to run duals. Im gonna have to open the hole all the way so i can weld a short pipe there, i have kinda planned on a flow master if it doesnt work or is to loud, or weld a big washer on both ends before the tail pipes, Thanks for all your advice Jack, Kevin

pete911 · 03-01-2003, 02:35 AM

Where did you get the "s hose" extension pipe from ?

Pete

Kevin Stewart · 03-01-2003, 08:45 AM

pete the pipe came with Timmins kit. its just a pipe but welded, Kevin

Kevin Stewart · 10:43 PM

Had a couple extra hours so decided to work on the Porsche. First there was no instructions to install the chip, This kit seems to have a lack of instructions, anyway,

I took the drivers seat out to install the DME and harness. I hadnt put the chip in yet so i decided it would be a good time. Turn the DME over and there are like 12 fold over clips, straigten the so you can take the cover off. I took the whole thing apart and later found i didnt have to. the four phillips screws and two star screws can be left in on the bottom. I took a wide blade screw driver and carefully pryed apart the two boards on the oppositeside of where the plug goes. (two yellowish plasic pieces that keep the boards from touching). At each side in the front where the plug goes in is a clip, i put a tiny screw driver in each one, you will have to pry down the whole roll of contacts carefull not to damage them, the socket sits on the black plastic part so you must release it. Push the board rearwards and it should slide out. the boards will still be connected at the rear so dont take them apart. you will see a cover on a chip. I took a small screw driver and carefully removed it. There is a notch on one side of the chip make sure it goes back on the same side as the one you took off. I for got there is a large plastic cover shield that is on top the board your removing, you have to take it off along with the 4 inch yellow plastic clip

Remember to mark how it came apart. It took me over an hour, if i had these instruction i could have done it in 20 minutes, but nothing like RR a part the first time. Kevin

Bill Verburg · Bill Verburg's Garage

Kevin, Does the AFM have to be rotated that much? It looks as if you have increased the height. If so you may run into interference problems w/ the rear package shelf. On one install that I have seen the solution to that was to cut the offending portion of the shelf away. This was hidden by the inner upholstry but didn't seem particularly elegant to me. Jim Williams did rotate his a bit more than mine, in order to gain additional clearance at the top.

Jim Williams install in a '78 SC

My install in a '76 Carrera

Kevin Stewart · 03-15-2003, 08:09 AM

Bill again no instructions with the kit, i went through Timmins site and others and came up with what i have. The problem with it not being rotated any more is it will rub on the intake which will eventualy cause a hole, Kevin