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question for all you guys w/ 3.6 conversions
The idea of putting a 3.6 in my 74 mex-blue carrera look has been circling around in my head for weeks now.
It seems the project would be best by adding a G-50 trans. This it seems would add a lot of complexity and cost to an already costly and complex job. Are many of you running a 3.6 w/ a 915 box? How well does it hold up? What modifications are done to the box? ...cooler at the least I assume. What is the going rate for a running 3.6 w/ all the necessary components? What are shops charging to do the conversion should I choose to hire it out? I've got a pretty trick and fresh 3.0 w/ weber 40's going back in the car (just back from the body shop) and a 2.8 twin plug ('73 RSR type dizzy) w/ web 46's on a stand. I could recoup some of the costs of the project by selling all or part of these engines. ...might actually make it almost feasible and justifiable. Just looking for a little food for thought. Thanks
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-Jay '74 Mexico Blue 911 3.0 EFI (Fast and Loud) '70 914/6 Race Car (Faster and Louder) '71 73RSR tribute vintage race car 3.0 '68 SWB 911T "RENNRAT" 2.8 twin plug/915 gearbox '81 Magenta IROC clone in progress 3.6 varioram/G50 |
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Too big to fail
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I paid $7500 for an allegedly rebuilt engine, then turned right around and paid ~$7k to have it gone thru and put together correctly
![]() I'm running a 915 with 8:31. I'd had the trans rebuilt a couple of years before I did the conversion, and several track days with the 3.6L brought my next rebuild date closer. The trans didn't break, but it was definitely getting worn. I upgraded it with a transmission cooler and PowerHaus II heavy duty bearing retainer and differential side plate. So far, so good, but only time will tell how long this one will last. Go to this page for a breakdown of the conversion costs.
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"You go to the track with the Porsche you have, not the Porsche you wish you had." '03 E46 M3 '57 356A Various VWs |
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I did the conversiomn myself so I saved $ on paying a wrench and was able to have the car back on the road after 3 weekends. If you can turn a wrench I don't see why you can't do it yourself in two weekends if you get all the parts lined up ahead of time.
The majority of time is spent on waiting for parts to be modified, realized and shipped. The cost for my euro '93 motor was a little over $7,000, complete with harness, coil, etc. I sold my very healthy 3.0 (which may actually be a 3.2 with CIS) for $4,000. Sounds relatively inexpensive so far, but you also have to include another $2,300 if you go with the IG, Inc kit for the wiring, sheet metal and mounting braket mods, flywheel, clutch assembly, bolts, etc. Exhaust is the next big issue, anywhere from $250 - $2,300. Then add about another $500-1000 for misc stuff like senders, gaskets, powder coating, etc. You won't get out without spending around $10K unless you get an amazing deal on the motor. As for the trans, I'll have to wait and see. I do have plans on picking up a euro 915 with the trans cooler later this years, just in case. If you want the G-50 trans / 3.6 combo I would just buy a C2 and strip it of weight.
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an '87 (G50) w/ a doner 3.6 and backdated to 73 RS look would be cool too.
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-Jay '74 Mexico Blue 911 3.0 EFI (Fast and Loud) '70 914/6 Race Car (Faster and Louder) '71 73RSR tribute vintage race car 3.0 '68 SWB 911T "RENNRAT" 2.8 twin plug/915 gearbox '81 Magenta IROC clone in progress 3.6 varioram/G50 |
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RETIRED
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The G-50 will fit....BUT....big hump needs to be wacked in the pan, and the bell housing needs to be shortened. The 915 is fine....just keep your foot out it in 1st gear.
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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There is a continuum of applicability of the 915 in a 3.6 swap. In general the newer the trans the stronger and more applicable it is. But it also depends on usage. Track use will tear anything up more quickly. I used a mg. case 915 behind my 3.6 for 9 yrs. w/o incident but felt that the upgrade to a 915/67(84 euro) which had recently been rebuilt was a good move because I gained lsd, cooler, rebuilt strongest version 915. Another very good option is the rebuild that Thom did w/ reinforced side plates and electric cooler.
I feel that the G50 is a needless expense/aggrivation, the cost of which far outweighs the benefits Now if you were going to all that trouble anyway a 6spd G50 isn't much more of a problem or expense and just might be worth it. Go here for a nice summary of the expected costs
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Gentlemen,
Was the 915 cooler used on US cars? If so starting with which years? Rick '85 Carrera
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Warren & Ron, may you rest in Peace. |
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Bruce Anderson once told me that a few Texas cars got them, if so they are very rare on this side of the pond.
There are 2 different oem cooler setups. One was used on the 73-75 2.7 & 3.0 RS the other was used on '84-86 euro 915/67, 915/69 & 915/72
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | Last edited by Bill Verburg; 03-14-2003 at 01:29 PM.. |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: MA USA
Posts: 2,938
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I am in the process of doing the G50 conversion right now. The pan doesn't need to be wacked but I found even with the shortened tranny I have to move the motor back a little. If I were to do it again I would consider coil-overs. And the 6 speed is much bigger and according to TG Fab it is much more work. He did one.
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Dean 911 SC turbo, 3.0L 930 motor, G50, 930 brakes, DTA EFI, 352 RWHP DynoDynamic dyno, |
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: SoCal
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For the guys who have bought the Timmins $1400 conversion kit: If you had it to do over again, would you buy it again? Whole kit, or maybe just some of the individual pieces?
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Los Angeles
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If I had to do it over, I'd go with the Timmins kit. Unless you consider it fun to reinvent the wheel, he's cut the path through the bush. If you want to cut it more neatly, you can. But his kit can save you many weeks of expensive aggravation.
I personally don't think the cost of the G50 conversion (both in terms of dollars and in terms of having to move the engine further back) is worth the benefits. I'm not saying there aren't very real benefits; I'm just saying I don't think they're significant enough for the sacrifices it requires. But to each his own -- someone could also point out that the smarter way to make my car would have been to start with a 993 and cut weight aggressively.
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Jack Olsen 1972 911 My new video about my garage. • A video from German TV about my 911 |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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I'd like to add another alternative--David Valliere (known as MIFINTIFIN on this board) is the supplier of my engine. It was basically plug and play for my mechanic or for anyone else for that matter. The engine came fully prepped for installation. David has fully documented the conversion and knows what he is doing. Since the day I picked up my car from the mechanic I have NOT HAD ONE PROBLEM and I've put at least 3000 miles on it since. Can any of the do-it-yourselfers say that? I doubt it.
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1980 911SC Targa 3.6L |
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I've seen TG fabs work. It looks great and compared to shortening a G50 5 spd and redoing the torque tube it doesn't appear to be that much more work. Here's the link to TG Fab. I guess it all depends oin what you want. I think that the 915 is fine.
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Bill Verburg '76 Carrera 3.6RS(nee C3/hotrod), '95 993RS/CS(clone) | Pelican Home |Rennlist Wheels |Rennlist Brakes | |
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Quote:
If you go with a wrench, it seems from posts on this board that you have a 50-50 chance of getting it done correctly or even getting the car back within 3 months. If you do it yourself you will learn so much about your car, the way your old motor worked and the way your new motor works, and the transition between the two. The changes you make to the car will be individual to your car from that point on and don't expect a wrench to sit and tell you everything he did. You can also take the time to do little things like powdercoat, clean, etc. Quote:
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