That’s horrible. To say nothing of the delay and the setback it cost you.
Its easier to explain if in fact the guy has an issue with you for some reason. “You want it welded? Here you go, it’s welded” sort of effyouuu.
Onward and upwards...

OYE! That weld job is a real bummer... you seem to have a good sense of humor about it in the end though. My suggestion on “how to handle” that ... I’d buy a used one (that does not need welding) and kindly ask the PC guy who effed it up to sandblast and PC the ‘new’ one. I would think that a part recycling place (DC parts) would have one and be able to keep you on budget.

Bummer - hard to fathom how completely stupid some people must be...

I had that same problem with mine and it was a couple hours work to snip a replacement piece from some scrap sheet metal, weld the nut to it and weld it to the cradle. I would think if you put a message out to the forum you could find someone nearby with a welder willing to help. If you were close to me I'd certainly do it for you. Should be no problem grinding the incorrect piece off and finishing it so you can't tell it was ever there. Getting it re-coated would be the biggest pain. Not a total loss for sure.

Good luck!
Bill

So... no real updates on the engine mount yet, but I did splurge and blow my tax return on a QuickJack 5000SLX.

As per usual with most wrenching adventures, I did a video of the install. Nothing really too notable, other than I was drinking brewskis the entire time. The power unit was soaked in oil when I pulled it out of the box, and when I was bleeding the cylinders, they kept getting out of sync, one would rise faster and retract more slowly. Confused me for a bit until I realize there was no weight on them, which keeps them equalized.

Here's the install/setup; pretty excited about this, far more room than jackstands, and due to the low ceilings and narrow garage, a 2-post didn't make much sense. I'll post another video on it after I've owned it a while and have a better opinion of it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/UJmmX3ef96I" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Spring is here tho, time to get going on this project.

Awesome! I have one as well, and it's made things a bit easier.
Congrats! Hope the weld adventure sorts itself out.
Bert

No updates on this thread in a while....did you sell your 911 or are you going to get back on it soon?

I am wondering why the vid guy used that low air moving fan? He wants to keep the engine temp up for emissions control as it was designed for?

He switched to speed boats. He is after all ADD vanced.

No, and yes. Started on it last night.

CFM is not really that much different, and in the years of driving this I never got close to overheating. I think mid years get a bad rap for reliability and most of the blame goes on those stupid "ThErMaL ReAcToRs". I ran my 5 blade and headers for years and no issues, so I'm keeping it because an 11 blade is another $6-800.

If this was a track car, I'd go 11 blade, but for a street car I think 5 blade is fine.

Glad to hear the 911 didn’t get sold and that you’re back on it.

FINALLY! I've been putting this off for so long because it looked like no fun at all, and I was right, it was no fun at all. Put in all new fuel lines from Len!

Obligatory Video:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/kBMBGAqUDk0" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Alright... next steps....

I need to mount the exhaust up to the engine, which is thin flange. The problem is, the studs on my heads are thick flange, and the center portion of the stud without any threads sticks above the surface of the header flange.... so I'm going to need to make some sort of thick washer/cut off thick pipe? I don't know yet.

Why didn't I change this during my refresh? Well, honestly I'm terrified of snapping one when I try to remove it, so.... does anyone see any problems with just putting an 'ultra thick machined' washer below the nuts holding the headers on?

After that, I need to verify the oil hoses fit, I think there's something weird about running Billy Boat headers but I'm not really sure what, hard to remember.

I would just turn up some spacers on the lathe, or buy some, and run the longer studs. Not worth the risk of breaking one IMHO.

As for the BBE headers, they occupy the same space as the S hose off the oil tank. I have my hose wrapped in two layers of heat protection and the header wrapped once. No trouble yet, but I do plan to remake the S hose from SS and use silicone couplers at the ends. I just haven't gotten there yet.

Stupid question: I installed the intake/CIS with my engine still on the stand. What's the best way to get it onto the ground?

very strong people or a chain and a cherry picker

Have access to chain/picker, but not sure how to chain it without hurting the CIS system. I'll figure it out.

Not sure how smart I was to do this, but it worked and I did it by myself. Just built a wooden box that I could put my jack on, then lowered the engine on to jack stands, then removed jack, box and then lowered the engine into the jack on the floor.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1648241229.jpg

From what I've read the 2.7 is thick flange, yours must have been changed out at some point. Part of the Andial make-over?

Pelican sells Induction Heaters to get the nuts off, other options out there.

No, the studs are thick, but the billy boat exhaust I picked up was thin flange. I picked up an aluminum tube about the right diameter a few feet long last night at the hardware store for $10, and threw it on the bandsaw to chop it into 3/8' thick chunks to act as washers. I think this will work pretty nice. Just need to figure out how to get the engine off the stand..... box + jack seems sketchy.