Teaser:

https://i.imgur.com/uam014r.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hDnfpwZ.jpg

Sunday Funday! Going to try to post a new video every sunday til this car is back on the road. This should be a fun one... :)

Getting Scammed by Mark Jung from MFIWerks and installing B&B headers!

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Some innovated work there with the tube/washers.

I've always read that the 2.7L should be mated to 1-1/2" not 1-5/8" exhaust, something about the back pressure I suppose and the torque curve.

I'm interested in reading about your seat of the pants impression of the power band compared to the previous setup. Sometimes things get over stated and a thread like this gives us real world results and not just theory.

Sucks that "good" means dented like that to some people.

Honestly I don't care about the dents/dings at all, it's used, but having all three primaries cut off and rewelded really pissed me off.

Getting CLOSER! This is how I removed my fully assembled engine from my engine stand, fabricated an engine cradle, and mounted my trans & engine tin. It's going in soon!

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I didn't want to use a hoist/chain because I was worried about hurting some of the fuel lines, so I fabricated a simple engine mount using some scrap 2x4s, tossed together a plywood ramp, and used my trust ATV/Trans jack. Might be a pretty obvious video for some that have done this a few times, but it was honestly hard to find information on this aspect and nobody has really documented it well, so here's my experience.

DEFINITELY STUCK re: the oil crossover tube. Not sure what to do yet but it's running into the heat exchanger for sure.

Edit: Found the thread about the oil tube. Really confused as to why the oil x-over tube works fine in these photos but it's hitting my exhaust heater pipe in the videos... hmmm
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/692154-billy-boat-headers-muffler-anyone-before-after-comparison-2.html

Okay boys, I have an update! Engine is IN! And then it came back out because I forgot a breather hose. BUT THEN IT WENT BACK IN!

I hooked up all the fuel lines, reverse switch and wiring, oil lines, and plugged in all the harnesses, and I installed the heat ducts. I wound up using some extra ducts that came with a chinese diesel heater; perfect diameter lolz.

Pics, because it will likely never look this good ever again:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660491948.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660491948.jpg

Alright, so here's my question... the distributor wiring. First off, I installed a pertronix ignitor to replace the points, and that has two wires (red and black) like this:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660491948.jpg


I'm assuming one is ground and the other is "signal" so to speak.

Here's what's confusing me: the FACTORY HARNESS that went to the distributor has two connections on it, coming from one wire. Like... one wire from the harness, then some electrical tape, then two connections. One connection went onto the distributor, and the other is a ring terminal that went to the engine tin. This does not make sense to me. Why is a single wire that goes to the distributor also grounded?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1660491948.jpg

Why would it be like this? Can I just delete that hacked on ground wire with a ring terminal?

Middie ignition CDI are 3 wire. 2 of those are white with braided ground wire AROUND the wire. This ground wire is then split off at the distributor and grounded to the fan housing (which is then grounded to the engine block.)

The coil gets one of those grounded white wires, and the points/dizzy get the other to complete the circuit.

You should follow the MSD / pertronix wiring instructions for 3 wire CDI boxes, as I don't recall the exact setup and I don't want to mislead you.

I want to say to answer your actual question that you would still want to ground those wires. I changed over to an MSD streetfire box so not sure how I originally wired it.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1623880508.JPG

K so. Engine is in. Axles are together. Everything is hooked up. Cranked and cranked, wouldn't fire. Getting a high pitched whine from CDI box, which I recall being normal, but I think I'm not getting fuel. I pulled an injector and no fuel smell, put it into a glass jar and cranked, no fuel. Crawled underneath the car, had hand on fuel pump when gF cranked it, felt it click but it's not 'whirring'.

This car has been sitting for 2+ years...... could the fuel pump have locked up? Also, I did change all the fuel lines with Len's lines about 6 months ago, and it seemed straightforward. Getting close....

Whine from the CDI is normal/good.

Did you try and jump the fuel pump relay? (jump pins 30 and 87a under the fuel pump relay in the fuse box up front)

You can also see if the fuel pump relay is working by lifting the sensor plate- I'd start there before tearing out the pump.

I can offer zero help, but curious if you are going to make anymore videos for YouTube on this car?

I think I binge watched all of them over a weekend a few months back and really enjoyed them. I think maybe you mentioned engagement was low but hoping you do at least an update video at some point. Thanks for the content!

Yeah I have a lot of footage of putting the engine back in the car, but like you said, DIY 911 videos do absolute **** on YT. I'll maybe do 2 more videos then idk. Not really worth the time editing and stuff when barely anyone watches them. Thanks for the support!

I'll try jumping the FP tonight.

Sometimes lightly tapping on a fuel pump can free it. Sometimes taking it out and filling the inlet and outlet with ATF then try hot wiring it fwds, then backwards a few times. It's a tight clearance roller cell pump mechanism so yeah they can get a little bit of rust or crud that jams the rotor...
You could try wiring it reverse in the car as well. When I do this it's not to run the pump backwards for any length or time, just trying to get the motor to back up and un-jam, then run fwd to clear it. Always give the pump some fluid to pump, they don't like to run dry. Be aware if your hot wiring it, your making sparks close to something with gasoline in it. Best to use some longer wires and make the sparks on the other end away from the pump. This is why if I have a pump on the bench I just put a little ATF in it.
David

That’s too bad. I watched and enjoyed all of them and learned a bunch prior to my own engine drop and rehab. I even liked your intro where you drifted the 911! The air cooled world is shrinking every year. A small audience but an appreciative one.

Jumped the FP with a piece of wire:

Good news: Fuel pump comes right to life! So FP is good.
Bad news: Now what. Reading about testing the relay, going to lift the air plate to see if it breaks ground.

You can use a multimeter to test the relay- it might be more instructive. Plenty of tutorials online...

If it's not the relay maybe there's a blockage in the fuel lines... maybe disconnect before the injectors and see if the FP pushes out any fuel. If not, move further down the lines (filter...accumulator...) until you isolate the blockage...?

Welcome back, man! I like the headers you’ve chosen, that looks like it will be a nice noise maker for sure.

Anyhow, I am not sure if you have a blockage, but a quick and easy way to find out is to pull apart the FA, put one end into a bucket or a gas can or something an then jump the pump to see if it spews any gas. …that would be MY next move (since the FP is verified to be moving).

For my rig, I pulled the curved end off of the FA, and pumped all of the fuel into a gas can (my car sat at dads for a minimum of 10 years) …and then I used that gas in the old lawnmower. Gotta love Stabil (I suppose).

Sounds like you’re on the right track. You can eliminate the pump itself as the culprit- YouTube has the answers on how to test a relay with a multimeter. If I were a betting person, I’d guess it’s the relay, but confirm your pump doesn’t run when you lift the sensor plate, and test the relay with a multimeter.

Then, double check the two-pin connectors to the sensor plate, and the cold start injector are in the right place. I’ve had them switched and it makes for much frustration, but it will send a little spurt of fuel when you’re cranking so it almost fires, but won’t catch, sounds different than your condition.

If none of those yield results, I’m running low on ideas…

Something just occurred to me regarding the relay. I had one of my relays make an intermittent contact from the (relay) pin not touching the fuse box. It was an easy fix at the time, I grabbed an exacto-knife and shoved it between the parting line of the relay pin, so that the pin could make a more “complete” contact with the fuse box receptacle.

That would be something to think about IF the relay is passing tests as a component.

I highly recommend adding a Power Probe III to your toolbox. It is a fantastic troubleshooting tool and can make quick work for testing a relay. I use it frequently, most recently when I was troubleshooting my brake light circuit (switches, light bulbs and fuse).

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-III-Case-Acc/dp/B005MVB3S0

Okay, it looks like I have a ground issue. I'm following the testing from this thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/673014-fuel-pump-relay.html#post6703459

Results of testing:

1). All pass except 85, which is showing no ground. ?!
2). All pass except 85, which is showing no ground

Looks like i have a bad ground. Not sure where yet, but progress is progress.

Also, I noticed some fuel in the intake, dripping down from underneath where the fuel distribution block is (all the hoses). I'm guessing that's the cold start enrichment thingie.