Very entertaining and informative post. Keep up the good work and keep updating us.
Thanks
Tony

Tried following your thread, struggling to understand what this connects to. I don't have cruise or O2 sensors so do I even have this hose?

That line is for the brake booster if your car has one.

This is great! Love these kind of videos!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok gents, parts are starting to roll back in, and I'm turning up the boost! This is my LONGEST VIDEO YET, covering a TON of things. In this episode, I cover the following: Refinishing a fan shroud, installing some gold foil lined sound deadening, and then I dive into stopping as many oil leaks as possible: Pulley seal, Nose Bearing Seal (Tom Amon Seal), Intermediate Shaft Seal, Triangle of Death, Timing Covers, Oil Pressure Sender, Temp Sender, and Oil Cooler.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ovhYdKFrkgg" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovhYdKFrkgg

Let me know what you think, editing this one was a beast.

Those pulley seals hardly ever leak, unless they are damaged. It is the O ring around the nose bearing that will leak. We just did the aluminum ring on our 2.7 short stroke, which has your 2.9 engines 93mm bore, but on a 66mm crank. So far it appears that the seal ring kit has corrected the oil leak around the nose bearing area. That red RTV makes a mess. We disassembled a 2.7 that was leaking oil profusely, like yours, from the top of the case, and running down. The problem what’s, when we got down to splitting the case, it literally fell apart, once the bolts were removed. They had used red RTV as a case sealant. I hope they didn’t use it to seal your case, otherwise your just wasting your time, and will have to split the case to stop all of the leaks. A 2.9 mag case engine is a high stress engine. You’ll have to make sure that it does not run too hot, or it will twist. We fabricated our own 93mm cylinders by boring out 90mm nikasil cylinder cores, and pressing in 93mm steel sleeves. We have what are similar to 93mm biral cylinders. I believe JB racing also fabricates this type of cylinder. We are running Cosworth pistons and modified Weber 40IDA carbs. It literally screams at 7300 RPM. Good luck with yours.

Wow, that sounds like a very interesting endeavor. Can you post some pics - would be highly appreciated!

Thanks
Ja

The case looks to be sealed with some sort of blackish compound, not RTV. I think the engine was leaking oil, and the PO took it to an 'import shop' that was definitely not a porsche shop, and the mechanic was a total hack. It looks like they basically just took stuff off, slathered RTV on it, and put it back on. Oil return tubes, rocker shafts, thermostat, valve covers, etc. I don't believe that hack touched the case or the heads/jugs/etc.

Okay, so I have a question... is there a BUDGET way to do the clutch? I looked at pelican's pricing... and man another $1000 is hard to swallow right now. Can I get away with just taking the clutch apart, replacing the throwout bearing, getting the flywheel machined, and maybe just checking on the friction material... and just replace that if necessary?

Also I did not lube the shaft when installing the pulley seal. Is that bad? Will it burn up? Should I just order another seal and pull that one out, lubricate the shaft, then install a new one? Let me know guys! :)

Yes, perfectly reasonable approach if the clutch is still within spec. Make sure the pressure plate isn’t scored though; you can’t cut them. The t/o bearing, pilot bushing and a rear main seal just make sense to replace so you’re hopefully good for another 10s of thousands of miles if the clutch is still good. Get new flywheel bolts too- they’re single-use stretch bolts.

Thanks man. Will pull them off tomorrow and see how they look.

For your clutch: I took a very similar approach. I made sure the flywheel was in good shape as well as the pressure plate, and then I scooped a friction disk from someone who was selling in the FS area on the forum that was not ever used (“SACHS” brand) for whatever reason. I was able to save a couple bux on that in the end.

Why am I reading that you should preemptively replace the release fork?

Is there a way to measure the friction material on my disc, to determine if it needs to be changed or not? It engaged fine, the only issue I really had was shifting into 2nd.

From what I understand regarding the release fork is that it is prone to breaking without warning.

...for the record, I did not replace the release fork when my car was in pieces.

Alright guys, still no answer on the pulley seal... do I need to redo it with lube on the inside edge?

Anyway, new episode is up! Teardown of my clutch, inspecting everything, and changing out the flywheel seal. Also geeking out about my plated hardware and rebuilt alternator.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/90Mxo1lbFqA" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90Mxo1lbFqA

Ok I’m stumped. How do I get this rocker shaft out to install RSR seals

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...cf11d1e16a.jpg

I can't push it towards the rear of the engine because of the timing cover.

I can't push it forwards because of the timing cover.

What do?

Somebody has to have a trick for this.

Assuming the fastener is backed off, source a reverse (expanding) pliers with some sockets for spacers. Push the rocker shaft out toward the middle. If you need further encouragement, use a long drift punch to evenly drive it out.

Can also heat up the area around the rocker shaft to expand it, then shoot some Kroil around the shaft and shaft hole.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1596745555.jpg

Is the camshaft housing coming off? if so, take it off. The rocker shaft could be binding when torqued in place.

Sherwood

Tried a long punch but unless it was curved there was no way to get it. I posted a few other places for advice and wound up using a socket and a screwdriver as a prybar. Worked aces! Have these three out, will be cleaning them up, installing RSR seals, and reinstalling today. Prelube w engine oil? Will read the book to discover more.

Another snag; I was skimming the engine book and in the disassembly, it didn't seem to mention marking the pressure plate or flywheel assembly prior to removing them, so I didn't. I am now reading they are balanced with the crank as an assembly. What should I do now? My machine shop charges $150ish to rebalance, but they don't have a crank to bolt it to.

I do not recall the flywheel and the pressure plate having a balancing situation - on mine.

I DO however remember the flywheel being directional. Meaning - on my engine - the 6 bolts (I believe that it was 6) that were there had a pattern so that the flywheel will only install one way. (IE: the holes on the flywheel are not perfectly spaced, and forces the mating to be one-way only).

I think that is the “balancing” that is being referred to, unless someone can help further.