Episode 5 is up! Pressure washing the engine, trans, and bay of the chassis:

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Good cleaning that dood got. It will make your job a little easier when you’re putting things back together. One point (sorry to be fickle): why didn’t you cap or cork off the spark-plug-holes on the valve covers!?

Keep it up!

Should I have done that? I had the plugs in the engine so I didn’t think it mattered.


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I’m not a pro, and what’s done is done, I would just hate to have water “trapped” in there until you pull a valve cover.

No reason to cap those plug holes. The fins on the heads allow for water egress.

Okay, so someone on one of my videos on youtube commented about replacing valve seals without disassembling the engine further. The basic premise is you fill the cylinder with rope to support the valve, then move the piston up to 'squish' the rope against the valves, and somehow change the valve seals without the valve falling into the cylinder.

I'm having trouble searching for this.... does anyone have a link to a how to on this procedure?

https://lmgtfy.com/?q=replacing+valve+seals+without+removing+heads

I found a ton of results here.

Ha. Yeah I can find plenty of non Porsche motor walk through. Do they apply to our engines too tho? At this point I’m just expecting nothing to be straightforward.


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The engine is out, yes? Gravity is your friend. So is each piston at TDC.

Maybe confirm new valve seals is all that’s needed. Guides in spec? I thought you were going further into the engine .........or perhaps rebuilding from the outside in. If you replace the valve seals, then replace the guides and regrind the valves/seats, then we’ll know. Don’t.

For the purposes of changing a valve seal with the head still on the engine, there is little difference between our engines and a small block 350.

Compressed air or rope are what I like the most. Compressed air will give you a pretty good idea if your valves (and rings) are sealing nicely too.

Well when I did the leakdown they seemed pretty decent. Only pressure loss I could ever detect was past the rings.

Super small/quick update; polished my upper valve covers:

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In other news, parts are rolling in, trans is being rebuilt, being drilling a lot of holes and cleaning a lot of parts to prep for powdercoating. Things are happening, just slowly.

Another update: MAN VS FAN

If you feel like laughing at someone flail around in failure over and over, please watch my video. This episode is definitely more of a comedy, had fun editing all the fail to something amusing and laughing at myself. I cannot believe how hard it was to get the fan off the alternator, jfc.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhDHlgBjrrA

FINALLY got it off in the end, and... idk... I might have even ****ed up the alternator removing it. It makes a slight interference noise when I spin it over, but that could also be yet another seed (see video for seed explanation).

Anyway, once it was off I polished my super awesome 5 blade fan that everyone hates, to prep it for powdercoating. Cannot wait.

That fan looks rad as is!!!

It's going to look even more rad in a few days.

Anyone have a link on going through the alternator?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/941604-alternator-bearings-again.html

Thanks!


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Spent tonight tearing into the CIS system. I have no idea what all this stuff is, but I’m documenting it extremely well so hopefully I can reassemble effectively.

I got the injectors pulled out of the runners (labeled all the lines) and then pulled the runners themselves. The rubber connectors were cracking apart; really surprised I did not have any running issues.

My plan was to clean up the runners and have them powder coated with some of my other parts, but I noticed they have some sort of insert for the fuel injectors.

Given that these runners sit right on top of the cylinders, would those inserts survive powder coating temperatures? I’m not sure what material they are made from.

Cheers!


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There is a rubber insert that goes into the runners. This should be replaced. It needs to be removed for powder coating. You'll also want to replace the 2 o rings for the injectors.

Consider soaking the injectors in Yamaha carb dip. It's by far the best product out there. Works even better in an ultrasonic cleaner.

The Yamaha carb dip doesn't hurt rubber or plastic, but is strong enough to clean U4.4 leaded oxygenated race gas.

Install or inspect the pop off valve in the CIS airbox for leaks while you have it out. Easier to replace at this point. I had a major vacuum leak from mine that was presumably installed 20+ years prior to my ownership. It's a $30 part, so cheap enough to just replace and reinstall if it is leaky.

Do new O-rings and injector sleeves. Test the injectors or replace. New set is around $200 on a famous auction site. Also might be a good idea to replace some of the springs on the throttle body. Cheap and they are going on 40 years old.