Which springs?

I smashed out the injector inserts yesterday, dropped off the intake runners at the powdercoater today, along with a ton of other engine parts. Lots of stuff to be gold zinc plated. Can't wait.

https://media1.giphy.com/media/XlvbF51R0T9uM/200.gif

Ha! When I was working on my car this weekend, atmosphere came on, found it fitting:

https://www.rapreviews.com/wp-conten...vegivesyou.png

Super quick vid on creating an RSR engine bar from a standard engine bar. Lost a little weight, looks cooler, cost : FREE! Free mods = BEST mods :D

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/29LsNfISZSE" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

You should reinforce it. It looks racy, but now weaker.

Sherwood

Love me some atmosphere; saw him a couple times - once in a really small venue north of Detroit; great energy.

Anyhow: it looks like you're moving right along, and I can certainly appreciate the idea of loosing weight.

The PC and Zinc coating is a fun part of this project, although some of the purists will poo-poo the idea of PC on the intake runners (and fan, etc etc) ... I am not one of them. To that end, if you're going to PC the intake runners, you should mask the area where the injectors go, so that when you re-install the O-ring for the sleeve, the sleeve, and then the injector (which ... also has an O-ring) there is not additional thickness (of the coating) that needs to be dealt with.

Do a little search on this forum: there are several who have completed the R&R of the CIS style injectors and put very detailed pics/how-to's that will be helpful.

I'm currently soaking the injectors in Liqui Moly 2005 Diesel Purge, as that was suggested by a yotuube video where a guy backflushes CIS injectors (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UrgtQe9CMs)

I haven't rigged up some backflushing system yet, but for now they're just soaking in a glass jar with that stuff.

Not too worried about the purists opinions, my car is pretty rough and I have no intention of keeping it original. I do want to keep my mods reversible. If someone after me wants to revert it to boring stock, go for it, so I will keep it with narrow hips.

Tiny updates:

All my parts are still at the powdercoater/plater, so no progress really. I picked up a rennline fan strap after trying to drill out my factory strap; it wound up in the trash. Trying to drill a curved piece of metal that large was pretty difficult with my benchtop unit, there wasn't enough room to curve it under the drill press 'table'.

I picked up my transmission from Accumoto, total damage was $4000 or so. All new bearings, new synchros, sliders, etc. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1591889373.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1591889373.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1591889373.JPG
Since my case was mag, they felt comfortable peening the bearing areas to shrink them up instead of sending them out to be machined, and to improve the rigidity of the main/pinion shafts. Trans looks great, no idea how it shifts, CANNOT WAIT to get everything back together.

I've decided against the 964 cams at this time; I think they're awesome but my pistons don't have clearanced pockets for hte valves. Some say they might fit, some say they won't; but either way I'd have to redo all the timing and I don't have cam tools so... meh. They can sit on a shelf for now.

Twisted the hell out of my ankle last week, so honestly I've been pretty low key and hobbling around.

Next steps are probably pulling the rocker shafts and installing RSR seals, then doing a valve adjustment. Can't really do that without the crank pulley and bolt, which are being plated.

Oh yeah, also did this!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1591891007.JPG

Pressure washed (twice), scrubbed w brake clean, scuffed up w 400 grit, then 600 grit. Paint was Krylon Fusion, supposed to be a primer/paint combo decent on plastics. Top coated with Duplicolor Clear Engine Enamel. Might be hard to see but it's a black metallic, has a lot of flake in it. Looks pretty awesome in the sunlight.

Been tackling a lot a little things, finally got the transmission back from Accumoto!

Details in video:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9cunCDBD29M

CIS Fuel Injection Teardown!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/4Oh2pmyp0Gs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Oh2pmyp0Gs

In this video I show you how to remove the fuel injectors, replace the rubber intake tubes (mine were cracked), remove the intake runners, and remove the fuel injector sleeves. I also modified some of my intake runners and cut off some superfluous castings to improve the appearance and shed another few ounces (lol)

I really had no idea what I was doing in this vid; since taking this apart and recording this, I have learned a lot about the CIS system that will be covered in upcoming videos. Stay tuned!

So I've heard that I should NOT be reusing these plastic fuel lines, and should instead switch to braided fuel lines or hard lines. Anybody have any good sources of info on this? This is the first time I'm hearing of it.

I appreciate the vids. Pretty cool stuff.

Regarding the CIS and the various components: that system you are working with is very similar to the 78-79 CIS system on the SC.

CIS = Continuous Injection System (I believe is what that stands for) This system was engineered by Bosch in the period; and there are many other cars that have a similar system: F-cars, Daimlers, etc etc etc.

Many people have documented a torn apart CIS in 78-79 SC cars here, and you will want to take a look at the various posts they've made (myself included). You're going to want to replace all those sleeves and the O-rings, and so-forth.

I like that you're not being shy about making some small customization to the intake runners ... be careful though: consider the idea that there may have been some porosity in those castings that you may be uncovering by cutting hunks of aluminum off. Where I am going with this is: all it takes is one runner to not be air-tight and you have an engine with a poor running cadence.

Finally: regarding the fuel lines that you are referring to from the fuel distributor to each individual injector - replacing them would be a good idea; but I would be more concerned about the lines that go from the tunnel up to the FA and then over to your fuel distributor. You may want to get in touch with Len (BoxterGT) if you are interested in a set of braided SS in all of this.

Thanks, I'm checking your thread out now.

One of hte things I am struggling with is finding out which hoses I need to order. There are so many on pelican, and it seems like they're just organized by size/diameter, not exactly a part number since they aren't formed hoses.

Did you have a parts list handy on what you ordered for your CIS refresh?

Thanks in advance!

One other thing, has anyone heard of someone using leather straps for the airbox instead of those rubber ones? Mine are shot and I sort of hate the way they look.

Leather straps on the airbox cover: I suppose that would sound elegant, but I just bought a new pair of rubber straps from the host (they're cheap, considering).

For the hoses. I believe that you are referring to the vacuum hoses that you will need to replace in addition to all the other rubber components in this job. Our host sells all of it by the yard. If I recall correctly, you will need some 12mm,

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/550623090M21.htm?pn=55-0623-090-M21&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=793

Some 14mm

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/550623100M21.htm?pn=55-0623-100-M21&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=793

And a lot of the 3.5mm

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/550623020M21.htm?pn=55-0623-020-M21&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=793


Now; if you have not already figured out exactly what you need to replace all that stuff with the same cloth covered type: I would buy a meter of both 12 and 14, and then 3 meters of the 3.5 minimum. The reason here is because - you will have other rubber braided hoses in the "frunk" that will also need to be replaced, and having a little spare around will be helpful for when it comes time to do so.

You can certainly purchase these hoses from a different source (local FLAPS, if they have metric or I am sure that others will give you another interweb source to look) but when I replaced all those vacuum lines, I decided that it would be cool to have a period correct look with what came from the factory (I believe) at the time.

Robey, THANK YOU. One thing I think we could really use, is a list of "if you're going to pull your engine, definitely replace these few things" and have a list of lengths and types of hoses. That was extremely helpful!

Anyway, small update, I sent all my stuff out to be plated and powdercoated a few weeks ago but I threw a video together about removing the engine baffles, oil return lines, and a few other parts. Not super exciting, but I am getting my parts back this week so things should start to move along a bit faster again.

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https://youtu.be/Kq4DeA0efsY

Cool new video, thanks!

I noted the red sealant on the rocker arm shafts. Hopefully this is not a silicone sealant which has a tendency to migrate and block oil passages. Killed 6 rocker arms and 1 camshaft on my 1972 2.4T engine... :-(

As much as I like the 'DIY on-a-budget' approach, I have developed a lot of respect for those funny mag engine cases.

Looking forward to seeing this Andial gem brought back to life! :)

It's EVERYWHERE. I've been picking it off, slowly. Really haven't found a great way to remove it all yet. Cams look good. >shrug< I'll be pulling the shafts to install RSR seals so I'll see what they look like.

Remember to fully remove the rocker bolts and nuts before tapping them out of the cam tower. The coned washer will expand the rocker and score the bore. You probably know this but just in case you didn’t...
Reassembling these engines correctly and so that they don’t leak is really just an exercise in avoiding the avoidable mistakes.

if you're going to pull your engine, definitely replace these few things" and have a list of lengths and types of hoses.



Well, there is another vacuum line that goes from the tunnel up to a vacuum port on the engine that likely could use replacing. The diameter of that hose and length are detailed on one of the threads that is getting updated (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/435952-vacuum-leak-you-probably-didnt-ever-think.html). It is like 25mm in diameter and takes a rather bizarre route up to the vacuum port (at least on my car) - meaning you need like 1.5m of it to complete the mission.

Other things:
Your fuel lines that go up to the FA and return to the tunnel, but I would be willing to bet you’re already replacing those.

Keep plugging away, I am enjoying the ride so far!