My A/C is ready for summer! I hope!

Adman · 05:58 PM

Well I have probably read every post from the archives and finally upgraded my a/c system. I could have saved quite a bit of money from what I have read by make up my own hoses...but I just didnt want to mess with it. I ordered all of my components from Performance Aire and Dianna and Richard were great to work with. I live in Houston,Tx and wanted to be prepared for this summer. I have an '87 911 coupe. I installed the PA vent mod, Seiko-Seiki compressor, Dryer, Under belley static condensor and barrier hose kit. I gave the evaporator a good cleaning and replaced all seals. I was advised by many to stay with the R-12 because of the heat and humidity in Houston. Today we leak tested, evacuated and charged the system. I fully expected at least one leak because I am not a professional installer

Not one leak

Now I am looking forward to some warm weather to see how well the system is working. Today we had a high of 78F and 75% humidity. They system was blowing 38F at idle and 36F at 3K in 5th. The vent mod really increases the volume of air to the cabin. I would guess that the output is double the stock flow.
I will have to wait and see how well the system handles the 98
F and 98% Houston humidity.
Matthew

88911coupe · 03-27-2003, 06:10 PM

Matthew,
Did you keep the condensor in the engine lid? How did you do the routing of the new hoses? I am curious to see how this goes since I live in Dallas and Houston is about the only place I know of that has worse weather in the summer than here.
Later

Adman · 03-27-2003, 06:16 PM

Buck...I kept the rear condensor as PA recommended. I was very tempted to remove it as Jack had. Decided to take PAs advise. So the routing is compressor to static condensor to rear condensor to front condensor to dryer to evaporator and back to compressor. Mayo Performance did the PPI when I bought the car and we discussed a/c. They warned me that Houston would be even more demanding than Houston. The humidity just sucks the efficency to the bone.
Matthew

1974carrera · 1974carrera's Garage

Matthew,

I did a search for Performance Aire but didn't turn up anything...do you know if they have a website? I'm especially curious about the "barrier hose". Is this different than the steel-core, red braided cloth hose that was used as original? Thanks for any information.

Jack Olsen · 03-27-2003, 08:59 PM

http://www.scottsind.com/

LeRoux Strydom · 03-27-2003, 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Adman
I installed the PA vent mod,
Matthew

Matthew

do you have a pic of the vent mod? I simply removed the bowtie from my SC and the cabin airflow increased maybe 200%. Recently I was thinking that fitting another type of airflow vent over the hole would look more professional.

Congratulations on a good job.

LeRoux

Adman · 03-28-2003, 03:58 AM

LeRoux...Check out their website to see the vent after install. www.scottsind.com It was my intent during the install to photograh every step of the way. Once I got started and realize how dirty I was...I decided I didnt want to handle the camera.
The most important part of the vent mod takes place on the back side of the bulkhead. You have to remove the top half of the evaporator box. You can then reach the lower vent distribution duct. The replacement duct has two outlet holes in it instead of the one like the original duct. You actually plug the existing hole in the bulkhead and drill two 1 3/8" holes to the right of the pluged hole...then then you use tin snips to trim the two holes together making one elongated hole...then you mount the twin outlet directional vent.
Before I received the vent mod I thought it was just a simple drill a bigger hole and cover it with a nice twin vent. It is much more involved. It should perform better than just making a bigger hole in the bulkhead because you are increasing the supply to the hole not just the outlet size. I dont know that for a fact because I havent tried just removing the boetie. I know Griffith sell a vent mod. Not sure if they increase the supply side or not!
Matthew

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

Matthew:

If you don't mind, what kind of total $ did you spend on parts? I'm in Dallas, and Diana from PA is s'posed to have some #'s to me hopefully today. Also, how many hours did you spend on this?

I'm keeping my compressor, but am looking at new hoses/134 conversion at minimum, with MAYBE another condenser. I'm still intriqued about the Griffith's wheel well setup, which is another way I may go. That is right around $1500 for all if I keep my existing compressor and coils.

I'm probably a couple of months late in starting this, but I'll still be ahead of the hot weather.

Adman · 03-28-2003, 05:50 AM

17 man hrs and $1651.00 in parts. I sent you an IM with the boring details.
Matthew

Adman · 04:17 PM

I have gotten a number of IM's asking for the boring details so here they are:
I tried my best over a couple of days to get a discount but Dianna sticks to her pricing structure and quite honestly the pricing is fair. My total delivered to Houston was $1651.00.
Included:
Static Condenser
Rotary Compressor
Vent kit
Barrier Hoses
Dryer
The Condenser is shipped UPS second day and the balance is shipped UPS ground.
Man Hrs:
2 Hrs ...pull evaporator, clean, seal, install vent kit.
The next day 3 of us put the front wheels on Rhino ramps and the back on stands. Gave us plenty of room for installing the under belly condenser. We pulled the front left wheel for improved dryer access and the rear left to assist in routing hoses. Routing the hoses is the toughest part of the job. Its dirty and extremely tight with a lot of clamps to remove and replace.
We actually put in about 5 hrs of steady work. That would be 15-man hrs. plus the 2-man hrs. from the day before. It would take less than half that amount of time if I had to do it again. I spent another $223.00 having the system leak tested, evacuated and charged with 3# of R-12. Component mounting was a breeze. Most of the time was spent removing and installing hoses. It is definitely a two-man job. In many cases one man has to feed the hose while the other pulls on it.
I gave serious consideration to the rear fender mounted condenser. I was trying to wait for Mark Wilson to finish his project. I had read a number of Jack Olsen?s post regarding the rear fender condenser. My feeling is that if a unit (similar) to Griffiths didnt work for him in Southern CA. ...I didnt want to take a chance in Houston. So much for my short version. Probably should have post this but didnt want to bore anybody.
The condenser takes away 2 ¼" of ground clearance on a 915 tranny car. Gives you a pretty good trailing angle for protection behind the front tires. There are also two crash bars that you install that would help the condenser ride over anything that runs the width of the car like a speed bump. The darn G50 tranny hump falls at the rear edge, center of the condenser and takes an extra 1" at rear center
I found the directions to be more than adequate to do the job.
This board rules! I used the archive and just about every suggestion for each operation that I could find. Heck?I would still be trying to remove the evaporator if I hadnt read all the various tips on its removal.
Matthew

88911coupe · 05-07-2003, 03:02 PM

Matthew,
How is this working out now that it's warming up (Low 90's and 80% humidity here in Dallas)
I am thinking about upgrading my a/c rather than be miserable for another summer. I am still thinking about just inserting the underbelly cond in line between the rear deck cond and the front since my car has not really had too much of and over heating problem. It seems like it would be dramatically easier to do.
Later

Adman · 05-07-2003, 03:51 PM

Buck...I am still pleased! 90F and 80% humidity and the A/C is still blowing 40F. I need to find a way to get more air directed at my face. The Performance Aire Vent Mod does increase the volume of air to the cabin. Specifically the air directed at the torso. It appears to be at the expense of air volume from the dash center vents. This weekend I left the windows completely closed and in direct sun to see how long it took to cool things down while having lunch at Hooters for a couple of hours. A couple of minute cruise with the windows down and sunroof open and the a/c on full cold and things were confortable again in about 10 minutes. I have a Guards Red/Black Interior Carrera. So I am pleased for now. Lets see what 95F-100F and80% humidity does. I need to call Scotts Ind./Performance Aire and find out if there is a way to get some air directed at my fat head. LOL
Matthew

ruf-porsche · ruf-porsche's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by 88911coupe
Matthew,
I am thinking about upgrading my a/c rather than be miserable for another summer. I am still thinking about just inserting the underbelly cond in line between the rear deck cond and the front since my car has not really had too much of and over heating problem. It seems like it would be dramatically easier to do.
Later

If I was living in a hot and humid area, instead of adding an underbelly static condenser, I would replace the front valance with an airdam or spoiler with a large opening in the center for an oil cooler. Instead of locating an oil cooler in that location I would mount a condenser and fans behind the condenser to pull air thru the condenser.

You won't loose the underside clearance and you won't have to worry about high pressure with the fan drawing air thru the condenser.

Plus you get that boy racer look with the airdam or spoiler.

88911coupe · 05-07-2003, 04:14 PM

That would look cool but my main objective is to get better a/c as simply and cheaply as possible and that option does not sound cheap...or simple. Most that have added the underbelly cond. have not had any serious problems with clearance issues, at least not that I have heard so far.
Thanks for the update Matthew.