Dash lighting fuse installation

[Paul Thomas]

George,
Maybe i'm the only one that hasn't seen it before, but that color combo on your car in FANTASTIC! I can't get over the green. I love it.

Paul

[GeorgeK]

Will,
"other interior lights are still not fused with this mod ( cig lighter...fresh air panel)."
Yes they are, at least on this '83 930. The fog and rear defrost switch lighting, the heater/ventilation panel, and the thermostatioc command lighting between the seats are lighted through this new fuse. The ashtray isn't.
Paul, Thanks, It's "ziegelrot metallic" (brick red), with olive leather interior:



GeorgeK

[Wil Ferch]

GeorgeK:
Thanks..if it indeed protects all of those items, that would be great. The wiring diagrams for my 85 suggest that they aren't..so I'll check how the 83 and 85 compare...maybe I'm reading these things the wrong way. Thanks for documenting this.
---Wil Ferch

[Glasgow 911SC]

Yikes.......I'll be having nightmares now!

[Wil Ferch]

George:
I'd like to prefab the fuse holder ends like you did.

Did you end up with one female spade end and one male spade end on the fuse holder?

What size spades did you choose?

It looks like there are three black/violet wires ganged to post 58A. Are these ganged together on one spade in the original wiring harness?

Thanks

--Wil Ferch

[GeorgeK]

Hi Will,
Yes I put one male and one female spade connectors on the fuse holder.
The black/blue wires are "piggybacked" together on the 58 terminal. There are 3 spades for 4 wires with a male coming out of the female connector, next to it.
The spades are the same size the factory uses, I think 6.3 mm.
GeorgeK

[Wil Ferch]

Guys:
I'd like to reopen this thread with two questions:

1.) I fabbed a fuse set up like George's , but am using the "mini" ATO style fuses. Is this a mistake from an availability standpoint..or are more cars going this way which might make it more available?

2.) I also found ( in this small size) ...a 2A version instead of 3A. Always looking to avoid electrical problems, I'd like to go as low amp rating as possible. Would these work or would they give nuisance trips?

---Wil Ferch

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
) I also found ( in this small size) ...a 2A version instead of 3A. Always looking to avoid electrical problems, I'd like to go as low amp rating as possible. Would these work or would they give nuisance trips?

I can understand taking the fuse seriously.. tooo seriously for me but..

do a current check of the circuit and the max current should be 70% of the fuse .. my luggage comp. lite is also on that circuit.. I don't know about engine comp lite......

[Bill Verburg]

Good idea George!, Now I have yet another project.

In the same vein, I find that I am getting quite a collection of add ons to the battery (+) & (-) terminals, currently DME and 2 audio wires. Since I am in the middle of adding another 2 for the headlight relays, my thought was to add an auxillary 6 terminal fuse block. I have seen the Anchor ones and they are very nice.. Anyone do a similar install.

RoninLB, My thought was to use 2 x 40A relays for the high and 1 x 40A relay for the lows, there is plenty of safety margin w/ this setup. What's the advantage of 4 relays?

[Wil Ferch]

Bill:
Look at the Pelican Tech Articles ( right here !) and you wil find some electrical articles by a Mr Rice talking about add-on ( OEM style) fuse blocks to unload the 930's A/C circuit somewhat. Not quite what you had in mind but close.

I would guess the advantage of 4 relays is that you'd only have any *one* light fail and retain lighting for any remaining three options ( left low--left hi--right lo---right hi). How 'bout using Bosch cube style 50A relays , with silver contacts and X million cycle life from Wayek ( www.waytekwire.com I believe)

Ahhh....ummmm... how 'bout my question? ( availability of smaller size ATO style fuses... and has someone else done a current draw check to see if 2A vs 3A is better?) I know we're scratching on small differences, but on a % basis, 3A vs 2A *is* a big deal !
---Wil

[Bill Verburg]

Thanks Will but I didn't find that article particularly informative. I know how to wire, just looking for experience w/ hardware. In addition I don't want factory style fuses. Ideally a circuit breaker type of fuse block can be installed. If not at least some modern fuses.

I guess I'll try to cruise some audio enthusiast sites for other ideas.

I have one of Marcus Sucro's kits, which is very nice and will be modified to do the high beam only(2x40A relay). I'll probably buy another kit and then have a spare relay, hence my ? for RoninLB.

[RoninLB]

Hey Bill..
I don't want to come off as neurotic.. but Blue Sea Systems has a magnetic 8 breaker board that I mounted on the floor. next to the battery.. and the style of tripping is vastly superior to fuses.. so it's not affected by ambiant heat.. and the wireing is screw fastened/ no clamp fastening.. and I use two 75amp Bosch relays because it has bigger contacts and it's also screw fastened.. I have the Bosch # close by if needed.. anyway one 75amp relay for both highs, and one for both lows.. and like Wil said 4 relays is safer.. if I trip my lows then I burn retinas till I reset. and the Bosch is mounted on the inside front bulkhead, tucked under the lip with threaded rivets.............

[RoninLB]

Bosch 75 amp
part# 0.332.002.150

[Bill Verburg]

The Blue Sea systems 30 x 6 w/ separate ground is the one 'm looking at. You're happy I take it?

The 8 sound even better, any pics?

On the 75A Bosch are those spade connectors for the contral circuit in the corner?

[RoninLB]

"The Blue Sea systems 30 x 6 w/ separate ground is the one 'm looking at. You're happy I take it?"
http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/boldblue.gif[/img]


"On the 75A Bosch are those spade connectors for the contral circuit in the corner?"
Yep

[Bill Verburg]

Thanks!

[Oracle]

Excellent project and very clear pictures!
Today I followed your suggestion and now I feel more relaxed that no accidents will burn the dash wiring....

In my case the post #58A has just 1 black/blue wire but when the just installed fuse is out the dash lights do not turn on, so at least that area is now covered....


Thanks!
-J

[Randy Webb]

Wouldn't it be better to put a fuse in closer to the battery?

[RoninLB]

Originally posted by Randy Webb
Wouldn't it be better to put a fuse in closer to the battery?

the headlight sw. gets power from the ignition sw... and may branches from the light sw. run to the fuse panel, then to the various lights.. but not the dash lights, which should include the luggage comp. light and engine compartment light, etc... I used a small 3 amp marine resettable circuit breaker instead of an inline fuse to eliminate another contact/ whatever.................

[Wil Ferch]

OK...before this thread was "hijacked" .....let me go back to one reason I re-opened this topic:

--- are the "smaller" ATO type fuses a mistake to use with regard to easily finding spares? Are they becoming more common, in general, or less so? ----

Wil