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-   -   First Engine Drop (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1083579-first-engine-drop.html)

Funracer 01-27-2021 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flojo (Post 11199541)
rinse with brake cleaner quick, then go next level with baken oven cleaner and a brush to rub in a bit.
though follow application rules.
don't let it soak too long on bare cast Aluminium (20-30 minutues should do the job anyway).

Great idea with the baking soda. I will do that at some point.

Thanks

Pedro '84 Coupe 01-27-2021 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funracer (Post 11194960)
Great news. Took the alternator out today, checked everything with a straight edge, no warping, no cracks, put it all back together works perfectly. My guess is when I pulled the cooling cone off the back of the alt it must have come forward just a bit enough to contact the shroud. That’s about $500 I don’t have to spend

That is good news!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funracer (Post 11199660)
Did some looking around last night. The Porsche priced tensioner kit that I had seen originally is $1200 per side, so $2400 total. The Sebro kit on PP is about $900 total for both sides which is at least sort of reasonable in the Porsche world.

Any issues with the Sebro kit?

Thanks

I'm not familiar with the Sebro kit but here's a link for a used kit (no affiliation to seller): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1084413-carrera-tensioner-upgrade-setup.html

Showdown 01-27-2021 08:13 AM

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/930105911912.htm?pn=930-105-911-912-INT

I just put these on my 77. $1500 for the pair.

proporsche 01-27-2021 09:36 AM

i wonder why is it so expensive if in Europe the whole kit costs 620 Euros??

Funracer, stick with your stuff .............

Ivan

Funracer 01-27-2021 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Showdown (Post 11199788)

That kit does both sides for $735 doesn’t it?

Funracer 01-28-2021 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pedro '84 Coupe (Post 11199762)
That is good news!


I'm not familiar with the Sebro kit but here's a link for a used kit (no affiliation to seller): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-used-parts-sale-wanted/1084413-carrera-tensioner-upgrade-setup.html

Purchased this today. Funny I check the parts for sale section every day and missed that. A few of the bits are missing from what he has for sale but all of those look to be available on PP.

I know I am taking a risk buying used but these are original Porsche parts and according to most people the failure rate on these tensioners is extremely small.

Thanks again for the tip!

Funracer 01-28-2021 08:31 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611854954.jpg

Ready to move to the engine stand.

Seems most people mount these on the passenger (right) side. Any down side to mounting on the drivers (left) side? I want to get at my oil cooler this will give me more room on that side.

Thanks

proporsche 01-28-2021 08:34 AM

remove the clutch..no need to have it on...
Ivan

Funracer 01-28-2021 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by proporsche (Post 11201302)
remove the clutch..no need to have it on...
Ivan

Afraid to! Never done it!

911SauCy 01-28-2021 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funracer (Post 11201329)
Afraid to! Never done it!

Removes entire drive train from a vintage 911...

...deal breaker is clutch removal....

I'm dying...LOLOL

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Funracer 01-28-2021 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911SauCy (Post 11201379)
Removes entire drive train from a vintage 911...

...deal breaker is clutch removal....

I'm dying...LOLOL

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Well when you put it that way its pretty funny. Hate leaving my comfort zone!

I am leaving town tomorrow until Monday. Really want to get the motor on the stand before I go.

Can I mount the yolk on the drivers side and still remove the clutch while its on the stand next week? If not I guess it comes off today!

Funracer 01-28-2021 11:08 AM

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611864375.jpg

Eight came out no problem. The ninth one stripped inside the hex.

So not all that easy, unfortunately.

911 Rod 01-28-2021 11:41 AM

Man, you need better tools.
Are you using socket hex?

Funracer 01-28-2021 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 911 Rod (Post 11201605)
Man, you need better tools.
Are you using socket hex?

It’s an Allen socket. May not have been pushed in all the way.
Drilled it out and banged a larger star socket and got it out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1611866957.jpg

All 9 allen bolts are out. Pressure plate not moving. 101 Projects book says it should nearly fall off. That is not happening.

Can I put this on the engine stand with the yoke mounted on the drivers side and deal with it next week? I have to leave in an hour!

Thanks

911 Rod 01-28-2021 12:06 PM

If my memory serves me correctly, (ya right) if you have the better Porsche yoke you can still take it off. Not so with the cheaper or VW yoke. Can't you tell by just doing a trial mount?

Funracer 01-28-2021 12:22 PM

Mine was bought from Fleabay. Had to remove the exhaust crossover tube and now it mounts flush to either side. If there is no reason not to I want to mount it to the drivers side so I will have more access to the oil cooler.

It’s the orange one a few pics up the thread on this page

proporsche 01-29-2021 12:53 AM

what exactly is your work plan on this engine?
Once you relocate the yoke ,prior that remove the flywheel ,you will be most likely replacing the seal behind it right?
Are you doing a valve job or ?.......?

Ivan

Flojo 01-29-2021 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Funracer (Post 11201329)
Afraid to! Never done it!

removing the clutch is important at that stage to:
a) control the clutch (still good?)
b) inspect the flywheel
c) inspect the crank seal behind flywheel

Funracer 01-29-2021 05:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by proporsche (Post 11202296)
what exactly is your work plan on this engine?
Once you relocate the yoke ,prior that remove the flywheel ,you will be most likely replacing the seal behind it right?
Are you doing a valve job or ?.......?

Ivan

My work plan is to inspect and repair/replace the following:

Drop and clean motor and engine compartment (done)
Engine to stand (not done yet)
Engine leak down and compression
Check head studs (already done this once but will retorque)
RSR seals (where to purchase these, I don’t think PP has them?)
ToD leaks
Return tubes replaced
Chain tensioners upgrade
Cam timing (not sure if this needs to be done)
Valves adjust with Snap Caps
Motor and Trans mounts
Injectors and sleeve O rings
Replace CSV O rings
Inspect airbox and CIS overall for air leaks and reseal (doing this now)
Oil cooler seals
Intake manifolds gaskets
Replace throttle plate bushings
Possibly have fuel distributor rebuilt
Possibly have fan/housing/strap refinished
Sound deadener replaced (done)
Inspect and lube dizzy
Lastly install all new exhaust

Generally to replace every seal, gasket and O ring that is accessible without opening the engine. Clutch was working well but since I have no maintenance history from the previous owner I will inspect and replace if necessary. I was unable to get the pressure plate off last night.

Not planning a valve job at the moment

I already have a large box of O rings and gaskets etc to get me going including shift shaft, flywheel and diff seals. Just need to get it on the stand and go go go!

I figure I will be done by next weekend! :)

Regards

Funracer 01-29-2021 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flojo (Post 11202368)
removing the clutch is important at that stage to:
a) control the clutch (still good?)
b) inspect the flywheel
c) inspect the crank seal behind flywheel

I will do this. I was hoping I could do it on the stand with the P201 style adapter I am using.

Thanks


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