What advantage is synthetic vr1 over dyno?

[Joe Bob]

So I知 finally seeing the price differential between the two equalize.

Is there any difference? Mileage, zddp anything else? I知 running a middle mileage 3.6 with no racing maybe some DEs and AX in the future. The current dyno oil is two years in the tank (don稚 ask why).

NO NOT ANOTHER OIL THREAD!

[HarryD]

Synths are more resistant to thermal breakdown and tend to provide more lubrication (molecules are more "slippery"). If you are like me with a non-turbo motor and change oil every 3,000 miles (about 9-12 months), probably does not matter all that much.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

So I知 finally seeing the price differential between the two equalize.

Is there any difference? Mileage, zddp anything else? I知 running a middle mileage 3.6 with no racing maybe some DEs and AX in the future. The current dyno oil is two years in the tank (don稚 ask why).

NO NOT ANOTHER OIL THREAD!

here's a Blackstone of VR1 20w-50


and Valvoline's specs




similar comparison Motul & M1 25w-50

[Joe Bob]

Ok. Will it leak more?

Is it compatible with the dyno oil?

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Ok. Will it leak more?

In the bad old days, yes. Now, No.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Ok. Will it leak more?

No, That's a canard left over from the very earliest days of syn availability

at that time there was an issue w/ seals that didn't swell and seal , the syn formulations were changed to correct that

The primary benefit of a syn is high temp resistance and low temp flow, possible but not proven to my satisfaction cold start protection

JMO choice but I've been using M1 15w-50 w/ occasional side trips to Brad Penn since the '80s before that Castrol 20w-50

The only syn that I'v personally seen ruin an engine was a Md. friend that had a 964 back when they were new, he used Castrol 5w-50 for a year or so and developed smoking issues which got worse weekly til he sold the car a couple of years later

I'm sure any modern syn w/ the correct weight and bonafide ZDDP #s will be fine

[HarryD]

This is great advice:

Originally Posted by Bill Verburg

Some opinions are backed by decades of research and experience

you want weight first,, check you owners manual most likely for synthetics for normal summer operation you will find 15w50 or 15w-40, and for non 20w-50

tribological research shows ZDDP is like the Goldi locks story, not too little not too much, wear issues have been shown to appear at levels < 1000ppm and >2000ppm

wear issues weren't an issue until after 1996 when ZDDP was reduced in some oils to <1000ppm, so there's a good floor, even Porsche recommended 1000ppm oils(0w-40) for years, most feel erroneously

so do some research put 2 & 2 together and choose your oil, if a manufacturer won't spec the oil skip it

[porsche930dude]

engine masters did a test on oil pans killing hp and as it hit higher rpms the windage really killed hp. So running a lower oil level really helped. I wonder how much hp our engines are losing to that being flat? Surely the type and weight of oil has a hand in that awsell. Nothing we can do about the level though

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by porsche930dude

engine masters did a test on oil pans killing hp and as it hit higher rpms the windage really killed hp. So running a lower oil level really helped. I wonder how much hp our engines are losing to that being flat? Surely the type and weight of oil has a hand in that awsell. Nothing we can do about the level though

Our cars are dry sumped so I suspect windage is not as significant as it would be in a wet sump motor.

[winders]

Oil windage is not a problem on Mezger engines. The race shops I know don't knife edge cranks because all it does is weaken them.