![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
Help: Axle Replacement
Hi,
I’m replacing the axles with new Lobro units because my cv boots are leaking and I wanted an easy plug and play solution. The axle came off the inboard/transmission side pretty easy. My problem is the outboard side near the wheel won’t come off. I’ve hit it with a rubber mallet, spinning it to hit all sides, but that didn’t break it free. The car is ‘77 and I believe has the 100mm CV, it has four Allen bolts holding each side. From what I have read I don’t need to loosen the castellated nut. Is it possible that the PO changed things such that I do in fact need to loosen the castellated nut? I just don’t understand why it won’t come off. Also, on the transmission side there are six holes, not four - why would there be extra holes? The axle that I’m removing does have the two pins poking out of it. Curious if anyone had any tips to remove the axle. There is not space to fit a wedge. Do I just need to keeping spinning it and taping on it with the mallet? Also, any general tips for this job are appreciated. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
||
![]() |
|
Slow old car
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: SE PDX
Posts: 441
|
Bigger hammer.
Rotate, tap a few times, repeat. Metal on metal is never ideal, but if it’s headed for the bin anyway, some LIGHT taps with a hammer could shock it loose. Don’t mess with the castellated nut
__________________
Mike 1980 911 SC 3.1 Coupe // 1986 VW Vanagon Syncro EJ22 // 2015 Macan Turbo // 2017 i3 REX Last edited by mikesarge; 02-25-2021 at 06:13 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
Joe, thank you for the reply.
I was hoping since my axle is the SC version I don’t need to remove the castellated nut. I’ll measure the axle but I thought for this year I could take the axle out by simply removing the four bolts. |
||
![]() |
|
RETIRED
|
You have dropped the inboard CV enough so that it could be removed. At least it appears so in the pic.
The issue is getting CV loose on the outboard. If it doesn't break loose, it ain't coming out. PM me your number and we can talk if you want.
__________________
1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 2,354
|
Secure a medium sized screwdriver, with the head end of the screwdriver towards the wheel, with a pair of hose clamps to the axle anywhere from midway on the axle towards the inner end of the axle. Tap end of screwdriver with a hammer. Rotate axle. Tap some more. Rinse and repeat.
Plan B: Use your old fan belt and loop it over the axle and back through the hole of the belt. In other words place the fan belt flat over the top of the axle and then pull one end down, around and through the inside of the other end of the belt. Now place the lower loop of your fan belt against the front of the pad on your floor jack. Slide floor jack towards the other side of the car and holding tension use your rubber mallet on the jack to bump it towards the transmission. That's the best I can do since I'm not staying in a Holiday Inn Express this evening. ![]() Last edited by SCadaddle; 02-25-2021 at 09:44 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Since you have disconnected the drive shaft this idea is probably too late. I was by the roadside when I had a puncture and the wheel was stuck on a Volvo I had at the time. So put the nuts back on and left them a bit loose, lowered the jack and drove a couple of yards and braked hard. Did the trick.
__________________
1959 Bristol 406 (bought in 1972; sold in 1977) 1966 Porsche 2.0 coupe (bought in 1977; sold 1981) 1978 Porsche SC coupe (bought in 1993) |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
Thanks everyone for the reply.
I’m still not sure what the consensus is here. I think I just need to hit with a bigger hammer, since my axles are the 100mm version that don’t require me to remove the castellated nut on the stub. Or is it that for all Axle/CV types, no matter the year or size, need to have the castellated nut removed? |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 3,346
|
You don’t need to remove the castilated nut if you have the allen head bolts at that end of the shaft.
__________________
72 Carrera RS replica, Spec 911 racer |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
|
Something odd here. The 1977 2.7s had 6 8mm bolts per CV. They did not have the 4 10mm plus two roll pin system found in some earlier CVs (1974, for instance), or the 6 x 10mm bolts on the G50 CVs.
What is the diameter of your CV bolts? Sounds like something has been modified here. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Quote:
-Axles removed from the car both had 6 M8 bolts per flange, for 24 total. No pins. Bolts were around ~45mm with spring washers only. No half moons. -Stock grease boots were the “thick flange” type. If you check some previous posts, it was reported that the mothership left half moons off of these as a cost saving measure. -Stock flanges have paper gasket between flanges and CV joints -Lobro units have shorter screws than what was on stock -Lobro units have the thin flange style grease boots. My understanding is that these require the half moon washers to provide the bolt with a good torque surface. -Lobro units are about 37mm thick. Flanges are about 12mm thick. Given above info, I ordered a set of M8 100mm CV half moons as well as new M8 55mm bolts and washers for my CV install. As for getting the thing off, would suggest a BFH... |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
The CV bolts - when measured just above the threads (that’s where I measure right?) are just under 10mm. I’ve been beating on this thing with a mini sledge and I’m getting no movement. Must be very stuck...
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
Well the P gods smiled upon me after I posted that. Instead of just hitting it with the mallet, I used a 1/2in socket extension to make more direct hits to the axle with my 4lb mallet. Spinning the axle as I went hitting it. It just came off!
Thank you @Job Bob for the idea! I did not order Schnorr washers when I bought the axles so I’m off to find some of those, hopefully at a local hardware store - if not I’ll order from Pelican and wait. Thanks everyone for your help! |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
Are your CV boot flanges the thick type? Assuming you ordered the same Lobro axles as me and the piece of metal holding the CV boot on is pretty thin. This metal isn’t much for the spring washer to bite into. Highly recommend getting half moons as well.
Cheap replacements from VW: EMPI 87-5081 Just google that and should be half moons for M8 bolts on a 100mm CV. That will give the Schnorr washers something to bite into that is thicker than the thin flange on the Lobro axles. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: San Francisco: East Bay Area
Posts: 69
|
I have the half moons that were on the axle originally, I'm planning to re-use those - is that what you mean?
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Ah there you go..these vary year by year from what I can tell. My car did not have half moons. Sounds like you should be set!
|
||
![]() |
|