Lisle tool not working for me..Why?!

[jgurnari]

Do you know what type of pins those are? specs? Like to buy some.

Originally Posted by Sajan

I had the same issue when I was taking the connector out using that tool.
Bought this instead and worked great.

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/305183/15640

here's what you are trying to push in.

[Flat Six]

Did this same exact job on an '85 several years ago. Used this tool, easy-peasy:

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Weather-Pack-Female-Terminal-Removal/dp/B07DD3SFFK

[donporfi]

I use this tool

[timmy2]

Do you have this conncetor? Or pins?

I posted all the parts showing numbers for new pins and housings.
For future reference. Should add it to your mirror thread too.

[sugarwood]

Is there a video that demonstrates what this tool is supposed to do?
Or what it is even called?

[jgurnari]

is the same size tool
used for both male and female pins?

Originally Posted by donporfi

I use this tool

[AlKidd]

When doing mine, I found that the pins wouldnt collapse unless I was pushing the wire from the back before inserting the tool. I used a very small pair of needle nose plyers to make sure it was in as far as it would go. It makes sense if you look at the ears on the connector as they stop on the inner lip

[donporfi]

In my case Molex and AMP , male and female it is the same tool.

Like Timmy2 and AlKidd said, you need to push the pin from the back before inserting the tool from the front. Sometimes the tangs grab de plastic and when you insert the tool the tangs do not close and you cannot pull the pin. You can use a jewelers screwdriver to push the pins from the back.

[donporfi]

Here, how this tool works.
It is like a syringe, it has a small plunger that pushes the pin when it is fully inserted and the tangs are depressed.



These tangs are the ones that hold the pin in place.



The tool partially inserted, note that the tangs are NOT fully depressed, the pin cannot be pulled.



Tool fully inserted, no tangs visible, you can pull the pin out.


Here you can see the small plunger pushing the pin out.


The Lisle and Amazon tools you are showing do not have the plunger, but should work, you only need to make sure the tangs are fully depressed, that is why you need to push from the back and then insert the tool.
The DigiKey tool is similar to mine.

[jgurnari]

Hi
where can i purchase this tool? is there a part number? thanks

Originally Posted by donporfi

I use this tool

[donporfi]

Sorry, I bought it about many years ago and do not remember where.There are no markings on the tool.
Googled it and got this link
https://www.licotatools.com/category-INSERTION---EXTRACTION-TOOLS-INSERTION.html

This one is similar
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-305183.html

https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-application-tooling/305183/15640

[917_Langheck]

Google lens review of the photo came up with
"Molex Power Connector Pin Remover Computer Wire Extractor Tool for .062" and 0.093" pins" with a couple of different source names like Jameco. com and Philmore.datak. com

Originally Posted by jgurnari

Hi
where can i purchase this tool? is there a part number? thanks

[donporfi]

Here
https://www.google.com/search?q=Philmore+61-390&oq=Philmore+61-390&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i61.1460j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

[ChrisHoover]

Originally Posted by spuggy

Some connectors are depinned by opening the shell (eg the 14 pin engine harness connector)..

Some connectors are depinned from the rear. Usually it's pretty obvious which ones these are; no tool can be inserted at the front as there's only a blank face with the connector protruding from it.

Others, like this one appears to be, are depinned from the the front. These, you typically relieve the pressure on the latching system (that holds the pin in the connector) by pushing the wire/connector forward in the seat, then the tool goes over the pin and depresses the latch. Then the pin and tool can be pushed through into the connector block, the wire pulled out of the tool and the tool pulled back through.

Gently tweak the latch back into shape if necessary, re-insert the terminal until it clicks (or just won't go any deeper, sometimes you can't feel it lock) and just tug it gently to check that it did lock (I had an intermittent no-start once caused by a crank pickup lead with a Deutsche female terminal that wouldn't actually lock into the shell and just pushed back as you made the connection). Should be good.

Sometimes it helps a lot to have a connector and a terminal to peer at closely before you start.

Yes pin poppers go in the front, depress the ears at their hinge and the conductor is pulled free from the back. The best pin poppers are a tube that fits between the pin and the shell, with a plunger in the center. The tube pushes the locking tabs down and the plunger pushes the pin or socket out.
Example are shown up thread.

[famoroso]

I had to do 24 pins worth as I was reinstalling the original flag mirrors on my '88 due to a previous owner updating to aero mirrors in period (and not only are the plastic connectors shaped differently, but male vs female electrical connectors are opposite on the flags vs aeros). [facepalm]

I could only get like one or two pins out using these tools while PUSHING and PULLING on the 33 year old wiring harness & pins. I didn't want to have to crank on 22 more pins via the push & pull method...



This tool made the job so easy. As you should expect when using the right tool for the job. I had the other 22 pins out in 22 seconds (maybe less). Laughably easy in comparison (and no pin crankage required)...



The metal plunger style didn't work for me. The AMP's longer tip was better suited for the job...



Here's the AMP tool in action on my 1989...



Moments after doing things the right way, I discovered this utter hack job...

[jgurnari]

yellow handle tool
worked best? that hack job is exactly what i didn’t want to do! and i won’t

[timmy2]

Amps tool worked the best for him is what I read.

[famoroso]

Originally Posted by jgurnari

yellow handle tool
worked best? that hack job is exactly what i didn’t want to do! and i won’t

Apologies if I wasn't clear. No, the yellow handle, non syringe style, tool was the same as the Lisle. Just worked ok at best.

God bless you. "First, do no harm." Anyone that approaches undamaged factory wiring with a pair of cutters should be neautralized on sight. There's always a better / cleaner wiring solution if one takes the time, makes the effort and acquires the correct parts and tools.

Originally Posted by timmy2

Amps tool worked the best for him is what I read.

Yes. The AMP plunger style tool worked / worked the best for me. I'd say "YMMV," but not in my experience. The syringe style seems to be "the right tool for the job" in this instance.

[ChrisHoover]

Originally Posted by timmy2

Amps tool worked the best for him is what I read.

The Amp tool is the one I have the most experience with. I have stuffed hundreds of Amp CPC with the inevitable oops! I am not really familiar with other brands. The Amp pin popper Does work well