Cv boot question

[jwakil]

I need to replace my torn cv boots. Why can’t I just buy the rubber part and reuse the same flange, bolts and locking straps (or use zip ties)? It seems our host and most other vendors only sell kits with the flanges and the rubbers already mounted, like in the picture. Is it very hard to mount the rubber on the flange ? I don’t see the need for replacing the bolts circlips and washers and gaskets.

[trippmann]

like these? https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/92333203700.htm?pn=923-332-037-00-OEM&SVSVSI=0580

[trippmann]

you can always buy the tool to stretch the boots if you can find them.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-030-HELP-Universal-Boot/dp/B000CIV4KA/ref=asc_df_B000CIV4KA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3913736091057367564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003664&hvtargid=pla-570966138633&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3913736091057367564&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003664&hvtargid=pla-570966138633

[jwakil]

Originally Posted by trippmann

like these? https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/92333203700.htm?pn=923-332-037-00-OEM&SVSVSI=0580

Yes. I can find just the rubber parts for $25 set of four, but with the flange, bolts, gaskets comes to $300+.

[jwakil]

Originally Posted by trippmann

you can always buy the tool to stretch the boots if you can find them.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-614-030-HELP-Universal-Boot/dp/B000CIV4KA/ref=asc_df_B000CIV4KA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3913736091057367564&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003664&hvtargid=pla-570966138633&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=63790029762&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312174136943&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3913736091057367564&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003664&hvtargid=pla-570966138633

Ok, so I guess it’s not easy to stretch and mount the boot on flange by hand? If I have to spend $170 on a tool then would defeat the purpose of just getting the rubber.

[trippmann]

You've discovered the ever persistent problem in your question! Pay extra to have all new stuff that has been put together properly, or spend slightly less and use up hours of your time.

Up to you...

[wrxnofx]

I used a set of bicycle tire irons to get my boots onto the flanges.

[wrxnofx]

Get 4 of these: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/00004330644.htm?pn=000-043-306-44-M60&SVSVSI=590&DID=19433

Spend $50 total.

You don't need that tool above - plus it's from Dorman so it'll probably break on first usage

Bicycle tire irons work fine.

[HarryD]

And to pinch the clamps, I used this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Apollo/5013846251?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-plb-_-ggl-_-LIA_PLB_142_Pipe-Fittings-_-5013846251-_-local-_-0-_-0&ds_rl=1286981&gclid=CjwKCAiAk--dBhABEiwAchIwkct713nm3nDxEG-7Vz9wOhYb7JWfWGPmAIVGXG7CtDdbxkTrQF32-BoCA2EQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

[jwakil]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

Get 4 of these: https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/00004330644.htm?pn=000-043-306-44-M60&SVSVSI=590&DID=19433

Spend $50 total.

You don't need that tool above - plus it's from Dorman so it'll probably break on first usage

Bicycle tire irons work fine.

I have an 81’ so apparently for that car I have to buy the full kit which costs $350 for 4. That’s why I was asking if I can just get the rubber and use my existing flange. The rubber from another source will only run $25 total. $25 vs $350 justifies a little work for me. If a tire iron works and I don’t need that special tool then would be worth it.

[rdimarco]

Take the CV joint off the axle. No need to stretch a boot over the joint.

[HarryD]

Looks like you need this. Boot attached to plate already. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/92333203700.htm?pn=923-332-037-00-M60&SVSVSI=572&DID=7378

[TxGerman]

Not to send you down a different rabbit hole, but when I went through this last year I did a bunch of research (here and elsewhere) regarding the issues and risks of the driveshaft bolts coming loose (specific to the SC design, not 930 or 3.2). After evaluating many different engineering solutions, I decided to buy a full set of moon washers (I believe these are not stock to an SC....or at least were not on mine) which provides better load distribution and then decided to go with Stage8 bolts. That system gave me extremely high confidence that I would not ever have my drive shaft bolts come loose. Like I said....rabbit hole, but if you're already replacing or repairing your drive shafts, you may want to consider this upgrade.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by rdimarco

Take the CV joint off the axle. No need to stretch a boot over the joint.

Exactly. But you still need to stretch the boot onto the flange.

[winders]

Stage8 bolts don't stop the bolts from loosening enough to lose appropriate clamping pressure.

[DaytonaCoupe66]

Originally Posted by wrxnofx

Exactly. But you still need to stretch the boot onto the flange.

Not really; remove the CV joints, inspect and repack them, then affix the boot before you put the joint back on. Messy but a one banana job. A bit of manipulation is required but not the level of violence to the rubber that stretching the entire boot over the joint will induce. Anything worth doing is worth doing well.....the first time.

[PeteKz]

This. This is how I did it the last time. Messy, have lots of paper towel and wear gloves.

[jwakil]

I ended up just getting the boots and reinstalling on existing flanges. It was not too hard to install the boots with a little bent spoon handle. But what a messy job. Holy cow! I went through a whole role of paper towels and then half the total time in trying to clean up. Getting the preinstalled flange/boot combo might have saved a little pain but not much since removing at least one joint is required regardless, so the mess is unavoidable unless you get the full axle assembly. I was surprised how much grease was still left in the joint as I'm sure they had been broken for some time, and it still looked fresh. I didn't bother doing a complete evacuate and regrease. It was too much mess and decided if the joints were to go bad, I would just replace the the whole axle assembly next time as the price is not that outrageous.