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Can’t separate accelerator ball socket
Dropping engine on 88 3.2. I have removed the lock wire/pin but seems to be taking insane amount of force to separate the ball from the socket. Am I missing something or is it normal to take this much force? Don’t want to break something. TIA
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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accelerator ball socket, which one ?
pull the pin, place a flat screwdriver behind the socket, next to the ball, pry or twist the screwdriver against the bellcrank , this should pop the socket off of the ball. Ian
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looks like this..the pin is wrapped around the ball joint
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Yes that is it. I guess I just need to use a bit more force. Just seemed to be on there tighter than it should be. Thanks
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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in bad case disconnect it at the trans...and later at the engine.Slide it down and pry with a screwdriver of the linkage
ivan
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1985 911 with original 501 645 miles...807 319 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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As you may have notice there is a spring wire inside the cup. As you pry it should retract and let the cup separate from the ball. When I dropped my motor 2 years ago mine absolutely would not separate. Never sure why but my guess so much crud in the cup the spring would not move away from the ball. I pried mine so hard it bent the throttle linkage mounting plate on top of the engine case and then snapped the ball clean off. New cup end and mounting plate from Fleabay and all was repaired. Now I keep them lubed whenever Im in the area.
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Spread the loop at the trans and pop it off the knob. Deal with the rest when the engine is out. When it won't come off the engine ball, 8mm wrench, loosen the nut and unthread it. Don't forget to reinstall before engine goes back in, 'cause there ain't no room then. And remember to tighten the loop again.
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I think soaking the ball/cup with penetrating oil might help.
I, too, subscribe to the "crud behind the C shaped clip spring inside the cup" theory. With things apart I have been able to soak the cup, get the spring bit moving around, and clean out the stuff which prevents it from expanding in its slot to let the ball loose. But I haven't tried the penetrating oil before getting the ball out. But should be worth a try? |
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In the past , l have used wd-40 overnight then used an open ended 8mm wrench to pry it apart.
Pete |
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Lots of good advise already.
To visualize the open end wrench method, see the following video. He is using a tool for separating trim bits (search "trim removal tool"), but a standard open end wrench usually works well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIWD24pTskU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIWD24pTskU
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wow that tool is brilliant. I have an old screwdriver I will modiy to make one of those. I also noticed that once I got them separated the "socket" side seems a little bunged up so maybe I damaged it when I removed it before. I may remove it completely and clean it up with my Dremel tool.
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Buck '88 Coupe, '87 Cab, '88 535i sold, '19 GLC 300 DD Warren Hall, gone but not forgotten |
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When you put it all back together make sure it snaps back in. I went through this process and hooked everything back up and though I was good. Then mine popped off while accelerating one day. After further analysis the joint needed to be replaced.
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