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New windshield vs dash conundrum

Hi all,
I have a '75 911 I've been restoring for over a decade (YIKES), I know the dash is supposed to go in before the windshield. However the installer is telling me he can't get the windshield in with the dash in place.
A bit of backstory: I recovered my original dash with vinyl purchased from our host. It came out great, but did add thickness top and bottom of the dash.,

Sooo - anyone know if it's possible to get the dash in after the windshield? I know I won't get the screws in place at the front of the dash, however the clips seem to hold it securely without those screws.

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'75 911s 3.2 - Ice Green Metallic
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This is the car for anyone curious.
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On my 1975 there is a decent gap between the windshield glass and the dash pad. Same is true for my 1989 3.2. On both I have had a windshield in and out the dash in, and the dash in and out with the gas in. So I am not sure why they would say that. Others may chime in with better info.
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Got a pic? The only problem I could foresee is if you wrapped the vinyl over the metal lip
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Here are a couple of pics. I think the issue they had was that the gasket was hitting the dash - or maybe the glass. I'll check with them on that.
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'75 911s 3.2 - Ice Green Metallic
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'21 Jeep Gladiator
‘18 Tesla ModelX 100D, ‘20 Model 3
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It is impossible to install the dash CORRECTLY with the front glass in. There are screws that hold the front vinyl down as well as the way the dash snaps into the TOP of the metal underneath requires clearance.

Yes you can shove it in later, but that's not the right way.

In my opinion, your installer is not the right installer. The front windshield can be a 10/10 difficulty in getting it perfect and requires someone who knows how to do it.

You need to use a really nice seal, I recommend the Porsche seal.

The trim needs to be the right shape and installed on the bench and seated properly. If it was bent during disassembly, you can reform it carefully with the glass close to being in. If the corners are wrong, it will pop out of the seal and I will notice it at the next car show. :-D

Thin strong clothesline must be roped into the seal and crossed over at the bottom.

The bottom must be placed onto the metal lip with the window nearly verticle so that it seats the inner middle edge properly.

While a second person firmly presses against the area, you pull the rope starting at the bottom in the corresponding area, making sure to do it evenly on both sides.

If at any point the trim pops out or the rope does not correctly pull the seal over the metal lip, you must restart completely.

Copious amounts of liquid soap to lube everything up as you work.


Your dash looks a bit high, but I can't tell for sure. Are the front screws in? When you press on the middle is there give? It should be solid if it's butted up to the metal underneath.

Don't overtighten the bolts that hold it on, they will snap the studs off the dash.

Mike's restoration on youtube has a nice windshield tutorial .
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Your glass installer is wrong. Always install dashboard first. Often when pulling the lower cord you have to use a small wood paddle to help direct the cord.
I would strongly suggest you find an experienced 911 glass installer. Rookies often fail to properly shape the metal trim, leaving gaps in the upper corners. Then they blame the seal.
Beautiful car! Rob
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Thanks for the detailed response!

I can't seem to find a good installer in my area, this guy came recommended from another Pelican member - very nice guy and really tried but it doesn't seem like he's ever done a Porsche glass install.

The dash is fully tight to the Sheetmetal, screws are in place, no play when I press down on the dash. I think it's a bit higher because of the thickness of the new vinyl. As a last resort I'll cough up the $1400 for a new dash from Porsche - really trying to avoid that!!

I'll try it this weekend myself. I've done everything else myself, I can probably do this.

The gaskets (front and rear) are the factory gaskets from our host. Hopefully there isn't anything wrong with them. The installers did do a nice job of mounting the gaskets and aluminum trim to the glass - seems to be fully seated. There is no visible distortion in the gaskets as they sit mounted on the glass.

I'll follow your instructions myself tomorrow. I'll let y'all know how I make out.

Mike's restoration is a fantastic resource, that guy is meticulous!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30westrob View Post
Your glass installer is wrong. Always install dashboard first. Often when pulling the lower cord you have to use a small wood paddle to help direct the cord.
I would strongly suggest you find an experienced 911 glass installer. Rookies often fail to properly shape the metal trim, leaving gaps in the upper corners. Then they blame the seal.
Beautiful car! Rob
Thanks! That's kind of what I suspected. Unfortunately I can't find any experienced installers anywhere. If I'm unsuccessful this weekend, I'll do another search.

Thanks for the comment as well, it's been a long road, but I hope to be driving it before the snow falls!!
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This one is tricky. Be patient and grab a friend who is patient also. You can break the glass if you aren't careful. Never use any metal tools to try to pry the trim in place in the seal (ask me how I know)

Cars that have been repainted and custom dash work is the enemy of an easy front glass install. Don't be surprised if your window takes 10 tries. Just keep attacking it and chalking it up to school. Once you get it, you'll be the guy in your area that can help others.

I use a small 1X3 chunk of wood with tape wrapped around the business end and a plastic mallet if I need to make very slight adjustments to the metal after the window is installed for that final perfect corner touch.

My 75 with original un restored aluminum glass trim:







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If you do this yourself, save yourself 8 of those 10 tries and fit the metal trim to the car opening - not the windshield. Do this before you install the trim into the seal. It needs to be correct in all 3 dimensions. I'm actually going to be in Boston the weekend of the 13th if you are still having problems....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuch View Post
If you do this yourself, save yourself 8 of those 10 tries and fit the metal trim to the car opening - not the windshield. Do this before you install the trim into the seal. It needs to be correct in all 3 dimensions. I'm actually going to be in Boston the weekend of the 13th if you are still having problems....
Thanks, and I appreciate that offer! Unfortunately the installers have already installed the trim to the rubber. Now I'm thinking your comment is exactly the issue - the corners are probably way off causing this issue. I'll try shaping them (carefully) with a plastic scraper and/or trim tools if that appears to be the issue.
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I don't want to be the "do a search" guy, but it'll help with understanding the install better. I did my windshield, with the help of my wife and 2 teenage kids. I used a plastic shim, shaved down to the curve of the trim corner, to move everything into position. It took several tries to get it right and figuring out who had to press down where and when as I worked the cord out to set the lip. Also agree with the recommendation to get a Porsche factory seal, although I've heard good reviews on the updated URO seal with the wider flanges.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuch View Post
If you do this yourself, save yourself 8 of those 10 tries and fit the metal trim to the car opening - not the windshield. Do this before you install the trim into the seal. It needs to be correct in all 3 dimensions. I'm actually going to be in Boston the weekend of the 13th if you are still having problems....
Not sure I follow. Isn't the procedure to install the seal on the glass, then insert the metal trim on the seal, then install on the car?

I guess I don't understand how one installs the metal trim to the windshield opening. Then once sized install it on the seal? You can do that with the trim all one piece while maintaining the sizing?

If you get nowhere with the Porsche seal, there seems to be a lot of positive experience with the Uro windshield seal now:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/998122-re-designed-new-uro-windshield-seal-review.html
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1129917-report-new-uro-windshield-seal.html

Mark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuch View Post
If you do this yourself, save yourself 8 of those 10 tries and fit the metal trim to the car opening - not the windshield. Do this before you install the trim into the seal. It needs to be correct in all 3 dimensions. I'm actually going to be in Boston the weekend of the 13th if you are still having problems....
I agree, after doing mine thrice so far with no luck. That said do you shape it to the pinch weld the seal wraps around, or the outer edge of the body where it meets the edge/end of the seal. I assume it’s the pinch weld?
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1989 911 Carrera 25th Anniversary Ed (5th from the last car to ever leave the original Porsche factory assembly line)
2001 996 Turbo - ~54k miles
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They are tight, but my New OEM Dash Pad with glue on leather was done a couple of months ago.
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Thanks all, some great tips here. Wish me luck!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duc Hunter View Post
I agree, after doing mine thrice so far with no luck. That said do you shape it to the pinch weld the seal wraps around, or the outer edge of the body where it meets the edge/end of the seal. I assume it’s the pinch weld?
Yup, it is wise to get the trim sized to the pinch weld (or were it will sit once installed) before you place it in the seal on the glass. The shaping the trim where it will sit once installed is what you want, pinch weld is likely close enough.

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