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Timing/Distributor question 2.7L
I have installed new plugs, rotor, dist. cap and points in my 2.7 L . Gapped the points but decided to pull the distributor to make sure it was done right. Well of course I must have not gotten it back in the same exact position (rotor/gear) because initially it wouldn't start at all. I rotated the crank pulley to Z1 and the rotor was pointing , not at the cylinder 1 mark but about at cylinder 6 (the next position over). So...I figured just pull the distributor, rotate back to line up and go. Sure enough it started but ran rough. Timing light showed that it runs really well when the thing is at 30 degrees BTDC!!!! Won't turn at all when I rotate the dizzy back to timing at 5 BTDC.
Actually the pulley marks are also very confusing compared to my SC. The Z1 mark is single with two marks to the right labled 30 and 32...no 5 degrees BTDC mark. So...is this just a matter of me having not replaced the dizzy in the exact correct position? (?one tooth off?) or ? Why is my pulley marked so oddly compared toi my SC's (and another 2.4L pulley I looked at (both have the Z1 and 5 BTDC marks) Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
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Richard Lane 1978 911SC 1973 "Clean" RS clone |
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Sounds like you're a tooth off when you dropped it in the well...try again.
Joe |
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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which direction should I rotate the rotor to get back on the correct alignment/timing..given the above info.
Thanks Warren. I actually had read that thread from a search...but like I said my pulley seems to be oddly marked...I wonder if they put on a different pulley when they rebuilt the engine to RS specs?
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Richard Lane 1978 911SC 1973 "Clean" RS clone |
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I could be all wet, but to my recollection...from having done the same thing with my 72e...you dont have to get dist aligned perfectly. Timing is measurement of when #1 fires relative to position of #1 piston. So as long as you have enuf travel in distributor rotation, you can still achieve proper timing when off a tooth.
Having said that 'theory', resetting dist on proper tooth shouldnt be all that hard.... Stick a coat hanger or something similar down #1 spark plug hole, rotate crank until coat hanger is at highest point...this puts you at or close to #1 tdc, note marks on pulley. If marks are way off, turn crank another 360...marks should be close now. Then install dist with rotor pointing towards #1 plug wire. You should be OK.......unless you have MFI like my 72e in which case you may be one complete rev off due to required timing of the MFI pump. Dont know if your motor has similar injection timing requirements. My .02 Hope it doesnt screw you up. It worked for me. |
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Vol...the original 2.4 with MFI from this car is sitting in another part of the garage awaiting enough courage (on my part) to tackle n engine rebuild. This 2.7 liter has PMO's on it so that at least is not an issue.
Still just confused as all get out by the wierd way my pulley is marked..... ----------------------------------l-------------------------------l--l Z 1 30 32 Sorry...can't draw the pulley curve but this is the way it is set up
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Richard Lane 1978 911SC 1973 "Clean" RS clone |
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hmmm...still doesn'tcome out right..the Z1 lines up with the single mark..the 30 and 32 with the two marks to the right.
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Richard Lane 1978 911SC 1973 "Clean" RS clone |
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I had queried the cars PO and he asked if perhaps the advance had gotten stuck..I need to get to the garage and check..anybody ever seen that? It would sure explain the 30 deegree thing....
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Richard Lane 1978 911SC 1973 "Clean" RS clone |
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