Lessons Learned - Valve Adjustment

[ubiquity0]

Wow- I'd never noticed that before. So according to factory the range of 0.002-0.006 is acceptable! It seems 0.006 would lead to v. noisy valves?

[caliber60]

After I did my valve adjustment on my '87, I think paying $500(Los Angeles price) is too much. Out of 12 valves, I only had to adjust 2 valves. Rest of them are just checking making sure it's within spec. It took me almost a month. I got frustrated, leave it along, come back next weekend. I know the valves are not designed to be adjusted with engine inside the car. If you take out the engine, it would be just like any other cars(ex. BMW 325i). Would you want to take out the engine just to adjust the valves? Probably not. It can be done with engine in the car. A mirror will help but not too much. I did mine mainly by feel. Some of the valve position do not even allow you to look at the valves. You just have to stick your arms in there.

[targa911man]

LeSchander didn't mention that he also drops the engine to check the oil.

[movin]

Yep, I follow the tolerance shown under the rear deck lid. I set my '87 at a tight .004", (actually .004" honed to .0035"). Nice and quiet. I suppose you could go to .003" and all would be well, maybe a loose .003"?

[larry47us]

Originally posted by cstreit
Larry,

It depends on what a "weekend mechanic" means...

The guys who's sole tool collection consists of a "catch all" kit and who think a pair of vise grips is a good universal tool should not be doing a valve adjust....

However someone that has changed oil on several cars, can gap a spark plug, and knows how to use a torque wrench should be able to do this.

Chris:

I do understand what you are saying. Well, I know the difference between an open end wrench and a box wrench, have changed the oil on a few cars, and know what a spark plug looks like (that is what you said, wasn't it?) Now, all I need is a friendly mechanic to take me under his wing, and in exchange for some sweat and banged knuckles, teach me some of the simple things. (hint, hint) Hey, Naperville isn't that far away!!!

But I've got plenty of time till spring and the arrival of green grass, green leaves and the Green "E".

larry

[cantdrv55]

Was going to do my own valve adjustment in both cars this week. Forget it now. I'll farm it out and save on the towing!

[ubiquity0]

Mine are noisier after farming it out than they were when I adjusted them. I'm going to check 1 or 2 & if the clearances are good I'm going to assume its wear on the elephants foot, or rocker thats causing the noise.

[RazorRacer]

Originally posted by cantdrv55
Was going to do my own valve adjustment in both cars this week. Forget it now. I'll farm it out and save on the towing!

Cantdrv55 this is all in fun. Doing the valves gave me much pride. I didn't even know what noisy valves sounded like until now. And now I'm not afraid to pop the valve covers and poke around. Soon I should be able to say that about an engine drop. That was funny Targa911man.

[MOMO3.2]

The $250 I spent for the "re adjust" included new gaskets, nuts, washers, and one quart of Mobil 1. I live in Los Angeles County and I went to Nardi Motors in Whittier, Ca. My car has received service from Nardi Motors for several years from PO's. Mr. Nardi performed the adjustment himself. He is a veteran Porsche mechanic and has campaigned some serious 911 race cars over the past few decades. I knew I was in the right place when I pulled into his shop and saw a couple wild 911 race cars being prepared for customers.

I am glad for the experience, but there is a certain peace of mind knowing the valves are adjusted correctly and my motor is running at an optimal level.

Mike

P.S. This valve adjustment thing must be like having a baby. I hated it during the experience and immediately after, but I am already thinking I will have another go at it in 10,000 miles...

[Erakad]

So here we go...did the recheck today...4 times...just to practice. Wish I had known the range, I would have left them a bit tighter. Sounds like I have 1 tapper...maybe on #6...but on the intake, so easier to deal with. I listened thru a long screw driver (like my daddy taught me), but didn't hear anything, but that was only good to #5, hmmm. As I recall, #6 felt great, any harm in just leaving it?

Oh, armed with the above, I'm going to err towards tighter than looser.

[Hugh R]

Oh, armed with the above, I'm going to err towards tighter than looser.
I hope you meant looser than tighter

[al lkosmal]

How about using a dial indicator??

[RazorRacer]

I had tappers on 1, 5, 2, and 6 intakes. Since I didn't take the spark plugs out, I couldn't turn the engine. So after about 1 hour to adjust the belt tightness (getting those washers to line up are a b$tch) I quickly tightened the intake valves. No more tap tap tap. I used one of those $10 stethoscopes from the auto store to locate the tapping. Six was the worst. I broke a feeler guage and 123shifter suggested using a magnet to get the broken piece out. That worked. Now I'm ready for the track.

[kepperly]

Anyone near Wichita, Kansas Jeff Baxter at Oversea mtr's
does the valve adjust for $150.00 plus parts and doesn't care if you bring your own!Besides I've known the Guy for 35 years and trust him without question. Not quit JW but at least I don't have to drive to the nw for service.

Keith Epperly 87 slant nose turbo look Carrera cabriolet

[Wil Ferch]

I've been blasted by others before on this ( Eric Coffey) but if you're comfortable with the spec range...at least know this:

The screw used for adjustment is a 8mm x 1 pitch screw. 1/10 of a turn from completely closed is the *ideal* target of 0.1mm ( about .004 inch). However, taking a quarter turn of your screwdriver blade and cutting THAT in half is 1/8 turn.....equals spec plus a "scoch" of extra. Always better somewhat loose vs somewhat tight ( that can burn valves).

YMMV....so no burning slams.... OK?

---Wil Ferch

[Rot 911]

Originally posted by al lkosmal
How about using a dial indicator??

You bring up an interesting point. Last weekend, as part of my engine rebuild, I timed my cams and then adjusted my valves. I had the dial indicator all set up so I thought I would see how close I was on the valve adjustment. What I learned is that to get the correct adjustment of .10mm (.04in) the feeler gauge is very difficult to move under the elephant's foot. I don't mean "magnetic drag" that some refer to on here, I mean almost too tight to pull the feeler gauge out. Every time I went with the "magnetic drag" my dial indicator would show around .12mm for a gap.

[dfw911]

The thing that helped me the most was using a micrometer to get a "feel" for how tight the gauge should feel. Like Kurt mentioned, I found out that the correct feel is a lot tighter than I thought and a lot tighter than most people describe.

Adjusting your own valves is a huge PITA the first or second time you do it, but is gets a lot easier once you get comfortable with it.

[Wil Ferch]

KurtV:
Maybe what you're experiencing is this:
I've mic'd various Porsche .004 feeler blades and all were .0042 to .0046

---Wil Ferch

[na2ub]

Interesting. Maybe I shall get a micrometer before I try again. I suppose that would give me the "perfect" example of what .004 feels like with the feeler. I followed the "slight drag" terminology and ended up loose. In all fairness though, I think I got all 12 equally loose.

[RazorRacer]

I use an aggresive timing: 13 degrees BTDC. After the valve adjustment, I starting getting some pre-detonation until the engine warmed up. I loosened the 13mm nut and twisted the timing down a degree or two and problem solved.

Is there any coorelation between valve adjustment and timing or was that just coincidence?