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Maybe we should start a new thread for this, but I'd be interested in K & N style watershield air filter covers in 'bare fiberglass' to match the R style engine cover. I think most people buying these would simply use their existing metal base, so only the 'watershield' cover itself would be needed. There would be a demand for both Weber and MFI versions.
This filter cover: ![]() Made to match this fiberglass engine cover: ![]() |
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Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Macomb, MI
Posts: 80
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OK guys, thats a tall order for a guy with a day job. But I'll get started on it.
When I finish the front lamps I'll look at making the lamp housings. The aircleaner part looks pretty easy if I can get one to copy. I'll talk to Dave to see if he has a short hooded car I can put a set on. Light weight window frames would be very difficult. Which year for engine lid grill? I can also make lexan and plexi windows. A new thread would be fine. Be back online after Wed. after Daves. |
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One more thing:
A couple of years ago a Dunkel's, somebody showed up with *vacuum formed* front '69-73 turnsignal housings that were chromed. They weighed just about nothing -- maybe 3 grams. At the time, they were pricey, but the market may be ready for them.
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techweenie | techweenie.com Marketing Consultant (expensive!) 1969 coupe hot rod 2016 Tesla Model S dd/parts fetcher |
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Planet Eugene
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Which year for engine lid grill? -- 1973 (but the plastic ones are the same for all years, aren't they)?
BTW, t-weenie, vacuum forming means you take a mold and a plastic 'sheet' then warm it all up as you run vacuum thru it. We used that in the lab to make el cheapo anemometer (wind meter) cups from margarine tub lids. I'm sure it get much more complex for making real consumer items -- control of heat, vacuum pressure, etc. |
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![]() i think i got my digicam issues sorted. Here are the new TRE housings, waiting for the lights to get mounted |
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![]() here's the backside... the housings are so well finished that when I first painted them, the paint didn't stick well and started coming right off. Soooo.... strip/sand the paint, (I really apprieciate stories from you "fuchs polishers" out there, sore fingers and all), then go over w/ primer, then paint, then clearcoat... hopefully they won't chip anytime soon |
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here's the backside of the two-bulb unit. Two red wires are the live ones. One for the brake light (bigger bulb) other for driving lights.
Black are ground for each. ![]() Last edited by }{arlequin; 02-11-2004 at 09:04 PM.. |
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Fabricator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Macomb, MI
Posts: 80
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Glad you like the lenses. The reason the paint did not stick is that there was mold release still on it. Could you please send me a picture of it installed.
Thanks, Mike |
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here's one more. This time it's the "inside" of the two bulb unit. I have an all red, and and amber/red. Ideally, the all red should deal just with the brake light, but eventually I may be going for the reverse as well, so to save myself some work in the future I put the single bulb in the amber/red housing, and the all red will do permanent duty as driving/brake lights. The two bulb unit has a bigger and a smaller bulb. It seems natural to use the bigger bulb for the brake light.
![]() 911r, I should be installing them this weekend, if she lets me out of her sight. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Dave,
Looks beautiful! Cannot wait for the fronts! Joe A
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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update on light install... didn't have time to do both.... got too dark and too cold and I was working outside
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This is the nighttime signature of the car now. It is much brighter than the original llamps, although, I (MAY HAVE) wired the brake bulb as running light. I will compare when I install the other one and see the difference.
![]() One thing about the housings, although they fit perfect, the supplied screws don't help much in mounting them. They are not long enough, at least for my application. The outside mounting screw is perfectly ligned up with the original housing mounting hole. Found a longer screw with same thread and it's perfect. The inside screw hasn't been tended to, yet. Good thing the fit is so nice that it almost seems superfluous. |
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: London
Posts: 262
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These lights look great, great workmanship
![]() Keep us posted on how the front lights progress and whether you decide to make "non-R" fibreglass housings, I'm pretty sure they'd be a market for them (including me). With the weakening dollar you may see a lot of orders from accross the pond!
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Aubergine 1972 911 2.4E - Gone but not forgotton HP2S #1185 - Ain't she purty Resident @ www.ddk-online.com |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Sunapee, NH
Posts: 1,109
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FRP rear light housing
Guys, I make the rear light housing for stock application 69-89 911, its a do what you want as far as adding filament sockets or LED's, local auto parts has many sockets available. I also make the K&N style water shield already.
![]() ![]() guy that is looking to bend the rules, i.e must have stock parts. The additional part will enclose the backside of the electricals for a stock appearance on the back of the housing. This replaces the entire metal assembly of tailight housing.
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Damon @ SERIES 900.com Sunapee NH several 911 variants |
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Location: Sunapee, NH
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FRP K&N watershield's, this particular set in the photo is very thin, and utilized the original Aluminum top for the filter for good sealing. They can be made thicker on the flat top for sealing purposes and not use the Al top. Another aspect of making these out of FRP is the choice of resin, "gp" general purpose works well enough, but will catch fire if properly ignited. There is another resin with boron added and is known as fire resistant resin, and it does sort of self extinguish, used it on full race car bodies, it tends to take longer for saturation of the cloth. Anyway there are the shields....email if you want any.
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Damon @ SERIES 900.com Sunapee NH several 911 variants |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: UK
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there is some 911R parts on ebay at the moment
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: San Diego
Posts: 940
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Can you provide the link to ebay 911R lights?
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: UK
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Damon,
HOw much are you charging for the stock like housings? I would love to do a set with LED's. They would be brighter, lighter, and less prone to connection issues as the stock bulbs. Has anyone thought of forgoing the housing and just gluing up a set of LED's on the inside of the lens? You could just bed them in clear Silicone adhesive to be weatherproof and incredibly lightweight. The only issue would be the mounting tabs.
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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I just talked to Dave at TRE and mine should be in the mail to me ready to install by the end of this week. I will post some shots when they are done! needless to say, I am excited!
James
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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