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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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Dash replacement writeup?
I just received my brand spankin' new dash pad from Clayton (Thanks, Clayton!).
I was wondering if there is any interest in a tech article geared towards dash pad replacement. I can't remember seeing it in 101 projects but even if it was, I could spend a bit more time and have more detailed photos and steps. I promise it won't be as long as my engine rebuild article. ![]() Anyway, I'm probably going to wait until warmer weather. PLus, I'm going to most likely do the headliner at the same time. I could combine the two. ?? Anyway, just wondering if I should be the test tube owner.
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I would rather be driving
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 9,108
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Its in 101 projects complete with locations of the nuts and plastic clips. I don't think there is an article on the tech section of the home page. write away...
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Jamie - I can explain it to you. But I can not understand it for you. 71 911T SWT - Sun and Fun Mobile 72 911T project car. "Minne" - A tangy version of tangerine #projectminne classicautowerks.com - EFI conversion parts and suspension setups. IG Classicautowerks |
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Charlottesville Va
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The article in 101 is pretty good, the nuts I had issues with were the ones between the pad and the glovebox-they're doable, but you'll curse quite a bit.
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Greg Lepore 85 Targa 05 Ducati 749s (wrecked, stupidly) 2000 K1200rs (gone, due to above) 05 ST3s (unfinished business) |
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
Posts: 4,368
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it is a tough job but you can do it without taking out the glass. I took my glass out and once the job was done I saw how I could have done it with the darn glass in there. :-(
send me a PM if you run into problems
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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I'm curious how you would have removed the dash leaving the winshield intact. Can you elaborate. Thanks.
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Walt 82SC 3.0 81SC 3.6 |
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Quote:
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If your car has a single defroster vent in the dash (not two) then you can R/R the dash pad without removing the windshield. I did it w/ no problem and another BBS member (from S Africa, I can't recall who) posted the same. I think those are 1987-1989 cars.
A pic from my R/R (note mirror, hence windshield was in) ![]() When you're removing the vents, this may help: I got the vent out by levering up the little tabs with a small screwdriver, then pushing from inside the dash (had the clock out). You could probably "pull" the vent out by making a hook-type device from a clothes hanger. I did not remove the louvers. The tabs are springloaded clips that snap behind the dash pad, so you'll need to hold them in the "released" while pushing. There are two such tabs for my car, I think. Pre-1986 vents may be a little different - they may have 4 tabs.
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1989 3.2 Carrera coupe; 1988 Westy Vanagon, Zetec; 1986 E28 M30; 1994 W124; 2004 S211 What? Uh . . . “he” and “him”? Last edited by jyl; 01-14-2004 at 03:41 PM.. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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You know what?
I was planning on removing the glass for this job. Clayton gave me a new windsheild seal for free. But now I want to try and do it w/o removing the glass just to settle this once and for all. I'm not worried about damaging my old dash as it will be scrap. I wonder if it can be done. Stand by... ![]()
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Be sure to write it up if you manage to replace it without R/R the windshield.
David Duffield |
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Charlottesville Va
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Leland-ain't no way its coming out of a double defroster vent car with the windshield in place without major destruction of something-there are screws holding the front edge of the pad down that are inaccessable with the glass in. The later cars with the double vents don't have those screws, and the screws in the single vent that hold the front of the pad down are accesable with glass in place.
If you could get to the screws on the earlier style, the pad would come out easily with the glass in place, but you'd have difficulty drilling the holes for the new screws, or using self tappers. Once its converted, no issue.
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Greg Lepore 85 Targa 05 Ducati 749s (wrecked, stupidly) 2000 K1200rs (gone, due to above) 05 ST3s (unfinished business) |
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I replaced my dash last weekend. I was made easier because I have deleted most of my heater, I was able to reach the fasteners through the trunk. Getting the new one back in was a little tricky. I got all the fasteners in the holes in the front (5), then I had to use some tie wire to pull the top fasteners (2) into there respective holes. I had to use a scribe to open the plastic clips once they were inserted through the dash, but i wish I would have been a little more careful, because I broke one of the ends off. Oh well at least it was in the center.
I bought a new windshield seal from our host & will have a local auto glass shop come over & attempt to reinstall my old windshield for $60 when I'm ready. Hopefully he can do it without breaking the glass, as there is an agreement of no liability. It was hard to find a glass shop that would even do it with the old glass for under $100. Unfortunately when the PO had the cheesey plastic dash cover installed, they also installed the wrong defroster vent covers. So I'll need to order some of those as well unless I can find some used ones soon. Leland, I hope you have success without removing the windshield. Please post your results.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 3,694
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Nope, didn't work.
I just couldn't get the sheet metal screws and couldn't cut the leather away from them, like I had planned. So, The glass came out. I've already got the new pad in. It looks pretty good. There's just one spot next to the passenger side defroster vent that doesn't quite line up perfect. The gap is too big and you can see one of the holes under there. I took pics and will post them shortly. I had a new seal and attempted to put the glass back in. I used the wire technique and it was working just fine until I got to the bottom of the glass (around the wipers) and I just could not get it to catch the lip. I said "good enough" and finished it up. Now I'm trying to get that blasted trim back on the seal. I can't get it. What's the trick????????? I'm stumped at that point. The pad looks pretty darn good. Much better than the old one. My intentions are to get the windsheild back into place temporarily. If I can get it to be "short-trip drivable", I'll take it to a glass shop and have them fit it right.
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Here are the pictures...
Pull the gauges to gain access... ![]() Pull the blower stuff to get to the bolts... ![]() Remove the glass and dash... ![]() Look at the mess you made... ![]() Put the new dash in... tighten bolts... ![]() Put plumbers putty on the bottom corners... ![]() Here's the gap I was talking about... no big deal, I guess... ![]()
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-- Chief Architect and Mastermind, SCWDP Last edited by Leland Pate; 01-14-2004 at 08:58 PM.. |
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Here's the windsheild with the new seal and wire in the groove... it worked very well except for about a 6 in section along the center of the bottom. I guess I just couldn't get enough pressure from the outside. I was doing this by myself.
![]() Anyway, while I'm in there, I'd like to unplug that annoying O2 counter thingie... is this the box? I was told to unplug the brown wire, but I don't see a single brown wire... only brown wire connected to this dealie is in a plug harness with about 7 or 8 friends. ![]()
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NOw I'm kind of thinking I may just buy a 964 trimless seal and give that a whirl. I know it may leak, but if I use a judicious amount of plumbers putty, I think it just may work.
And I'll need a helper next time. ![]() I would like to know about that O2 box before I put it all back together. good night guys, Lee
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GAFB
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
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Leland,
The trim goes in before the windshield goes in. If you don't have the trim in, the gasket won't seal properly (insufficient tension). That bottom six inches will be no problem next time around once you have a buddy helping. Get the whole thing sealed or you may have major leaks. Nice pics!
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Location: Reno, NV
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RIGHT!
I KNEW THAT! ...oops... Thanks, Dave. Well, all in all not too shabby for 2 and a half hours all by my lonesome. ![]()
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Dems some sweet looking Recaros you gots there, Leland!
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Sports Purpose 911 Driver
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: La Jolla, CA
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looks to me like you added some of your own screws? smart move. If I would have thought of that I would have done it. In that case, yes obviously glass must come out.
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James Shira R Gruppe # 271 1972 911 Coupe 3.8 RS ‘nbr two’ 1972 911 Coupe 3.2 TwinPlug MFI 'Tangerina-Jolie' 1955 356 Pre A Coupe ‘old red’ 1956 356A Emory speedster build in progress |
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