separating tranny from engine

ckissick · 01-25-2004, 09:23 AM

I just removed my engine together with the 901 tranny from my '70 911E, and it was pretty easy. But I can't separate the tranny from the engine. I removed the four bolts, and there's about a 1-2 mm gap between the engine and tranny, and I can make the tranny wobble a bit. But I just can't slide the tranny away from the engine, no matter how hard I pull and yank. I've never heard of this much difficulty with this. Anyone else ever have this problem, and how can I achieve separation? Thanks in advance.

Charlie
1970 911E
Montara, CA

gumba · 01-25-2004, 09:36 AM

If the clutch arm is engaged in the throwout bearing you need to swing the arm as you seperate the eng. from trans. If the eng./trans is on a platform, i.e. table and the arm has pressure on it, that could stop the arm from pivoting .

onewhippedpuppy · 01-25-2004, 10:11 AM

I think you're supposed to rotate the TO bearing 90 degrees to seperate it from the arm, or at least that's what John Walker told me. My arm is laying in the bottom of the bellhousing, so I didn't have that problem. I got mine to the point where I had maybe 1 1/2" between the tranny and engine and got stuck, turns out I wasn't pulling hard enough. Wiggle and pull, just so the clutch arm has been released it'll come.

ckissick · 01-25-2004, 01:56 PM

I can't exactly see the TO bearing at this time. If I could see it, there wouldn't be much of a problem. I tried moving the clutch arm, but couldn't, although it is not hindered by the dolly the engine is sitting on. I didn't force it, though. When I get home I'll experiment with the clutch arm and let you know what happens.

Charlie
1970 911E
Montara, CA

ckissick · 01-25-2004, 04:31 PM

I just spent 2 hours on it with no luck at all. I rigged up systems that put quite a bit of pulling force on it, but something's holding the tranny on. The gap is now about 1/2-inch, but then it just stops. I don't understand, because everything I've read about this suggests that it's easy to do; no problem at all. But for the first time I'm stumped. Am I the first one to encounter this problem?

Charlie

onewhippedpuppy · 01-25-2004, 04:35 PM

Did you try rotating the TO bearing? You should be able to see/ manipulate it through the slot on the top of the bellhousing. I was told 90 degrees by John Walker, hope that helps.

Jandrews · 01-25-2004, 05:50 PM

As Matt suggests, you absolutely must rotate the throwout bearing. There are two ears on the TOB flange that the fork rides in, and they keep the fork "captive" when mounted. There is a clutch inspection hole on the bellhousing, through which you should be able to slide a long screwdriver. You will see the ears on the TOB and they should rotate rather easily with a little coaxing of the screwdriver. 90 degrees will get the fork past the ears, and it should then separate easily.

JA

PBJauker · 01-25-2004, 06:09 PM

PUSH THE TRANS BACK AND PUT A TOP AND ONE BOTTOM NUT BACK

THAT TAKES THE PRESSURE OF THE BEARING SO YOU CAN ROTATE THE BEARING

PETE

Todd Simpson · 01-25-2004, 06:14 PM

Quote:

I rigged up systems that put quite a bit of pulling force on it, but something's holding the tranny on.

Dude, no amount of pulling will get them apart until you rotate that bearing.

All these posts are correct, look through the window at the top of the bellhousing and rotate the throwout bearing off the fork. You'll need a flashlight to look in there and a long screwdriver. It should require absolutely no force, and once you get it off you'll wonder how the heck it doesn't come off while running.

2 things might be putting tension on the bearing making it difficult to rotate. First, slide the trans back onto the engine as if you were putting it back together, just leave the connecting nuts and bolts off. (The second possibility is that the disk is so worn, that there is always tension on the arm. That's when you need to do the procedure from the Haynes manual with the allen screw and spacer, but I doubt that's it.)

Good luck.

john walker's workshop · 01-26-2004, 07:00 AM

you can't rotate the bearing until you pull the fork away from it. even then it barely clears the bearing sometimes, but you can persuade it to turn with minor effort. make sure the trans is bolted tight to the engine when you do it. the manual has a procedure where you collapse the pressure plate with some spacer tubes, but it's not necessary.

ckissick · 01-26-2004, 07:28 AM

Thanks, all. I'll give it a try when I get home tonight. The books I have seem to have ignored the '70 and '71 models.

Charlie

Rot 911 · 01-26-2004, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ckissick
Thanks, all. I'll give it a try when I get home tonight. The books I have seem to have ignored the '70 and '71 models.

Charlie

Charlie, the Haynes manual, amazingly enough, actually describes how to separate the 70-71 tranny. It discusses using spacers to relieve the pressure from the pressure plate and rotate the throwout bearing as described by John Walker. I have the manual at home. If you can be patient for a day I can either scan and post the section or call you at home tonight and describe the steps to you. Let me know if you want me to do either.

ckissick · 01-26-2004, 11:17 AM

Thanks for the generous offer, Kurt. I have the Haynes manual and read about the procedure last night. I hadn't looked at it earlier, because it never was any use before. (Your use of the word "amazingly" suggests to me that you have a similar opinion on the usefulness of Haynes) Anyway, Haynes did keep true to form by making their explanation totally confusing. They also said the procedure is for all models after 1970, up to 1989, and that no engine can be removed without the tranny. So Haynes still sucks. Nevertheless, let me give it a whirl tonight. I have a feeling I'll get it done.

Earlier posts suggest that I can turn the TO bearing without that earlier step that requires a "distance collar". Hope they're right.

Charlie

ckissick · 01-27-2004, 08:01 AM

I did it! Wayne, if your listening, please add a paragraph or two for us '70-'71 owners in your second edition of 101 Projects. The way it's written now, there's no indication that I needed to do anything extra. I was delayed three days, and wasted the threads on the case-tranny studs while struggling with the tranny. Don't get me wrong, the rest of the book is excellent. Just some friendly advice.

Charlie

Rot 911 · 01-27-2004, 08:06 AM

Congratulations. I was just wondering if you got it separated!

targa911S · 01-27-2004, 08:25 AM

I love these kinds of threads. I got a problem...I ask the board..I get an answer...i solve the problem! Now ain't that what this forum is all about?

ckissick · 01-27-2004, 10:30 AM

As a matter of fact, I forgot to say that the best manual is the people on this board. Between this and Wayne's 2 books, he's got us covered.

Charlie