first time engine drop, advice? - Page 2

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 06:04 AM

Disconnect shifter/elec. connections in tunnel, cv's/axle's, two bolts in undercarriage and lower away. Oh, yeah, for the engine don't forget new ignition wires, coil, harness (if you can find one), grommets for the shroud, pop-off valve, air cleaner straps, oil/air filters...

Rot 911 · 02-05-2004, 06:06 AM

Do you have the Bentley manual? Good instructions there, but there aren't that many more steps involved. Let's see if I can cite them by memory: disconnect cv to tranny bolts and support axles with wire, disconnect starter wires, disconnect clutch cable, disconnect back up light switch wires, go into car and disconnect shifter shaft at shift coupler, loosen, but do not remove tranny mount bolts until ready to drop the engine/tranny. If I missed anything I am sure someone else will jump in here with the info!

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 06:11 AM

More: replace cv bolts/gaskets, parking brake shoes, shocks (suspension, hood and trunk), door pockets, carpet, floor pan in front, battery, headlight squirters, windshield wiper motor, fresh air blower motor...

rhk109 · 02-05-2004, 07:26 AM

When do the motor mount bolts come out? I assume the same time as the tranny mount bolts?

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rhk109
76 911 3.0

Danskman · 02-05-2004, 07:36 AM

Get the Bentley. I followed it step by step, like a blind man. There were two or three minor things it didn't mention to do, like a wiring harness attached at LF of the engine, and a couple other do-dads. I made written notes in my manual of what they were for future reference. I'll look them up when I'm home and post them for you. I had never dropped a 911 engine before last week, and it went very, very smooth. If you're like me, you'll be pleasantly surprized how easy it really is. Take your time, pay attention and observe what's happening around you.

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 07:38 AM

Once you have the car jacked up high enough, and the engine/trans. supported by the jack adapter (PP sells 'em) designed to hold the whole assembly (which weighs about 900#), you loosen the bolts in such a way as to be able to very slowly and carefully lower the jack with the engine/trans on it. All 4 bolts come off generally at the same time. It' a play by feel situation..always making sure everything is steady and secure. Some people remove the engine bolts before the trans bolts and vice versa. Ask anyone whose done it, they'll say it's like the very first time they...well not exactly like that. Just be careful, it'll come. Then, get new torsion bars, sway bars, rotors, ...oh you get the idea...

rhk109 · 02-05-2004, 08:33 AM

Is the engine/trans adapter a must? Can it be doen safely without it?

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rhk109
76 911 3.0

rhk109 · 02-05-2004, 08:38 AM

I checked out the engine/trans adapter and I don't beleive it will work for my engine which is a late '83 3.0 without the sump plate. Any other suggestions or tools?
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rhk109
76 911 3.0

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 08:41 AM

It can be but unless you have some type of support mechanism rigged up the assy. is very unstable. Even the adapter is unstable but manageable. What is good about the adapter is that it's already on your jack and can be rolled around easily once the engine is out. Also, you can use the adapter later when jacking the car in the future to replace, well, just about everything on a 28 year old car.

Danskman · 02-05-2004, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by rhk109
Is the engine/trans adapter a must? Can it be doen safely without it?

__________________
rhk109
76 911 3.0

I didn't use, or need one. Went just fine without it. Just have a good quality, strong floor jack. I took the opportunity to upgrade mine, and was happy I did several times. As far as special tools go... I borrowed a 12 point cv bolt tool from a friend - didn't need it. The cv bolts were 6mm allens. Bought a flywheel bolt tool. Haven't used it yet, but will. I bought a P201 for working on the engine on the stand, but you could get by without it in a pinch. Bought a clutch allignment tool. That's it, assuming you have the usual mechanic's tools.

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 08:48 AM

Depends. If you're rebuilding or doing a lot of work, the engine won't attach to a conventional engine stand, an adapter for that is also needed...the biggest problem you will have is deciding what (part) is a must to buy and what isn't. It's a snowball situation, more like an avalanche, really. It is fun, very rewarding and expensive...go for it. This website is invaluable and I have found the people on it to be very helpful. There are very few questions that cannot be answered here. You have a question, do a search. Good luck!

Jarrett88 · 02-05-2004, 09:50 AM

I dont want to Hijack this thread just wanted some additional info but i am dropping my 3.2 out of my 88 this weekend, is there anything that hasnt been stated in this thread that i need to look at when taking out. I am pulling only the engine and leaving the trans in since i am swaping out the ring gear (G50 trans). i am getting a motorcycle jack to aid in the balancing act of dropping the engine.

Crowbob · 02-05-2004, 09:54 AM

Yes. But no one will know what was left out until you do the drop. Good luck.

ckissick · 02-05-2004, 10:32 AM

I just removed my engine for the first time last week, and it was a piece of cake. The proper procedure has been covered pretty well, so I'll add my .02 on how to lug a 440lb engine around.

Since I have a '70, I had to take the engine and tranny out together. I didn't use an adapter for the jack, but I lowered the engine/tranny onto a dolly that I made . The dolly was builtso that I could roll the jack under it when the jack is all the way down. The engine just landed gently on the dolly, I pulled the jack away, and rolled the engine/tranny out with ease. My 901 tranny only weighs about 80 lb; I can carry it around with ease. Therefore, it didn't throw the center of gravity off too much.

I started a thread a few days ago about how to lift the engine from the dolly to the engine stand (and back again). Look for that thread for some good info. I bought a "cherry picker" yesterday; seems like a good way to go, if rounding up a group of strong helpers is inconvenient.

Charlie
Montara, CA
1970 911E

Rot 911 · 02-05-2004, 10:35 AM

Jarrett, for a 3.2 the Bentley manual takes you step by step on the engine removal and has excellent pictures!

Jarrett88 · 02-05-2004, 11:33 AM

Great, Thanks Kurt

Danskman · 02-05-2004, 06:42 PM

rhk109...

Here's my list of things that the Benley manual didn't list in the engine drop procedure. I have an '80 SC.

1) wire harness plug on firewall, at LF of engine compartment.

2) cloth-like fiber tether retaining brake cable to tranny.

3) I was surprised, but no comment to remove the starter cable.

4) I removed the rear bumper to allow more clearance, then also removed the CIS boot and blower motor. All three very easy and quick to remove.

All in all, went very well following the Bentley, with the above exceptions. I removed the engine and tranny as one unit. Really no big deal. I was able to move the complete unit around my garage on the floorjack without issue. Separated engine and tranny afterwards.

onewhippedpuppy · 02-05-2004, 06:49 PM

Just go really slow when you lower it all, stop periodically and look around to see if there's anything you forgot. One perk of having a carbed '70 T, there aren't really all that many things to unhook, none of that new fangled CIS stuff.