Strut insert suggestions

[Argeo]

Hi, surprised to find that there was one extra step in a book I read about replacing front inserts, I was quite depressed to find out that there was another large bolt or whatever you want to call it after I removed the big nut under the hood. The inserts are Boge. First I guess I need to get the special Boge wrench that fits the groves on this nut thing. After I get this special wrench attachment, are there any tricks to removing this without removing the whole strut casing from the car. This makes a relatively easy job into a much more time consuming job.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

David

[jet528e]

If you are talking about the retaining nut that holds the insert in the strut, just use a pipe wrench to get it off. Then the insert pulls out. If you are replacing with Bilstein inserts, a special wrench should come with them.

[dotorg]

I used a cheap-o pipe wrench and a 2' section of black iron pipe for more leverage. Even then it was tough to get it off.

[Argeo]

I tried that but it wouldn't budge. Should I apply heat or is there some other trick. Any suggestions for holding the strut in place while I twist at the retaining nut.

David

[dotorg]

Get a bigger pipe to put over it. A 2' piece over my pipe wrench was just barely enough... I still had to pull for all I was worth to get it off.

I used a cut piece of 2x4 to keep the whole thing from turning.

[Argeo]

The extra pipe you mean for leverage?

Not clear on the 2X4.

Thanks again.

[jyl]

As others have said, to remove the threaded cap nut on the Boge struts, use a pipe wrench with an extension.

Be very careful that you don't dent your fender lip if the wrench slips and the handle whacks the lip - I'd tape something thick and protective to the lip.

Also, don't be torquing against the steering rack or the column steering lock as you may do damage - do something else to block the strut from turning, like wedge a block of wood between the steering arm and the body.

When I replaced my OEM inserts with Bilsteins, a new cap nut came with the new insert so I didn't care how much I gouged up the old cap.

If the cap is really stubborn, try some penetrating oil overnight. I would be reluctant to use heat since it might damage the paint on the strut.

Edit: also put some tape on the underside of the fender lip where the top of the strut might nick it as you compress the strut and pivot the top outward, which lets you remove the insert from the strut housing. I didn't, and nicked my paint, not a big deal I guess but still preventable.

[KTL]

I just did this a few weeks ago and the pipe wrench was the way to go with the struts still mounted in the car. Borrow one of those monster pipe wrenches from somebody. I have a huge aluminum Rigid brand wrench that's excellent for this job.

I'd recommend a helper for the reasons that John said. You don't want to be leveraging against the steering assembly. Myself and kiwior were able to get the job done by him working the wrench and I counterholding the strut body with a rubber strap wrench. Those collar nuts are indeed stubborn sometimes.

[tobluforu]

If you have a floor jack, use the handle for leverage.

[vash]

let me do some minor hijacking. i was eavedropping on a man explaining the strut install (boss at partsheaven). unless my ears were defective, i THINK i heard him mentioning putting antifreeze (or oil) into the tube for cooling or lubing? am i on crack?

[UK Carrera]

JohnL

Do you have any pics of using wood blocks to react the torque put on the strut?

I'm on the verge of replacing all my shocks, and got to admit I'm afraid of ending up with damaged bodywork from trying to under the insert gland nut.

Thanks.

[KTL]

unfixed isn't on crack. The oil/antifreeze trick helps with heat transfer. Just makes things messy on a street car. Not worth the hassle in my opinion.

The key to keeping from damaging the body is to disconnect the push clip for the brake line on the strut tube to get some "slack" in the lines- then there's no need to bleed anything, push the damper rod thru the strut tower (the old rod is a piece of cake to push on when the dampers are toast), and pivot the whole assembly outside of the fender.

Now you can get a big wrench on the collar nut and muscle up on it. I really suggest having someone counterhold the strut body if you can get somebody. Strap wrench or a big 'ol pair of Channel Lock pliers holds the strut tube really well. So does another pipe wrench!