CV Joint/axel replacement

[Shipibo]

Can someone list the numerical sequence for taking the half-shafts from the car. Does it involve taking the big nut from the wheel or just the 12 hex head nuts from the cv joint. Want to keep it as simple as possibe as I am not a very good mechanic at 71. Thanks, Charlie

[slider]

Just need to unbolt the hex head bolts from the wheel side and the tranny side. I think Wayne's book has the torque numbers for when you're ready to re-attach. there is lots of good information on this board on step-by-step to inspect/clean/reapply grease, etc. Not a very hard job, even for a novice mechanic.

[Grady Clay]

Charlie,

You have me by only a few years, good for you.

It depends on the year of the 911. Almost all cases it is necessary, or at least a lot easier, to take the inboard end off the transmission axle flanges and then remove the big axle nut. This lets you remove the entire assembly, including stub axle, and deal with it on the bench. Lobro ’67-’73 can be done without removing the stub axle but it is a pain.

Let us know the year.

Best,
Grady

[Randy Webb]

Ship, Be sure to do a search here to see some of the problems folks have had and the ways to deal with them. Use new bolts and washers or spacers, and check the torque periodically. It is a BAD idea to drill holes for safety wires in the bolt heads. Be careful about mixing the left and right assemblies, the inboard and outboard sides, and the balls in their cups.... depending upon which religion you follow on these things.

[no substitute]

IF the big axle nut releases without a great deal of effort, I agree it is easier to attend to the entire axle assembly on the bench. It can be slightly difficult to thread the outboard bolts in, but this is subjective. If you don't have serrated (lock) washers under your bolt heads, you MUST get some. Surgeons gloves help tremendously to keep the black grease off your hands if you are going to re-pack.

[mike f]

I just finished up removing and repacking the inboard cv joint tonight. This was done in order to replace the torn cv boot. It was not really difficult but, as others have mentioned before, messy. It was my understanding that the axle nut does need to be removed to take out the entire axle on the later cars. Thankfully I didn't need to go that far since alot of people on this board seem to have a heck of a time with that one(never having done it myself). If you do need to do that I hope you have a long 3/4 in breaker bar and a hefty assistant to stand on the end of it!
I did pick up a couple of pointers from this board which were certainly helpful. Clean out the bolt heads with a small screwdriver. Tap the hex head socket in lightly with a hammer to seat it well. Place a screwdriver in the edge of the brake disc to hold the axle from turning when loosening or tightening(beats getting up and setting the e-brake after every bolt!). Once you get under there you'll see it is easiest to work on the bolts when they are in the 1-o'clock postion. And of course read this this
no sub...I did not have any washers under the bolt heads and I know they have never been removed before this. Also no paper gasket and no concave washer. Maybe this is particular to the 930, since the factory manual doesn't list them.
Charlie...good luck and prepare to get dirty!

[t_t_t]

It is not a "bad idea" to drill the bolt heads for safety wire.

[jdowty3]

I replaced an outside boot not long ago and did not need to remove the stub axle. My bolts had sheared but was able to remove them all without a problem. I found removing the bottom shock bolt allowed the wheel assembly to drop a little farther and helped to get the axle out and up in a better position to work on it.

[Rick Lee]

I've done this on my Carrera and my 993. On pre-89 911's, it definitely helps to remove the lower shock bolt, but remember to keep the wheel hub supported by a floor jack or wood block.

[Shipibo]

Folks,
Thanks for the advice, but I need a sequential recipe for removing and replacing the axels. Like 1st, 2nd, 3rd, etc. I have an 80 911 Targa and am apologetic for not mentioning that. I believe (not sure) that I do not need to remove the stub axel in order to replace the boots, grease the CV joints, etc. Do I need any special tools-the bolts are hex 6 point. Thanks, everone!
Charlie

[Rick Lee]

Jack her up, get a good ratchet with 3/8 drive, and several long extensions. I can't remember the size of the CV bolts. This is best done with an assistant. One person should sit in the car and pull up on the hand brake and then release it after you break each bolt loose, so you can rotate the axle. Or, one person can lay under the car and guide the hex bit into each bolt head, while the other guy uses the ratchet and puts some kind of bar, pipe or long screwdriver between lug bolts to keep the wheel from turning. Once you get the CV bolts out (I think there are six of them), tie up the axle with a long wire tie or something to keep it from hanging loosely.

Then to get the stub axle out, I think you need a 32mm socket. If you have air tools, this will be MUCH easier. If not, you'll need a good long breaker bar and a 1/2-3/4" flex arm. Once you get that stub axle nut off, you just tap it out with an extension. Very straighforward. Should take no more than 15 min. to get the axle out.

As for repacking, you'll have to ask others. I stumbled through it with a lot of help and could not tell you very well how to do it.

[jdowty3]

74 to 85 use a 6mm Allen Cap head bolt, pre 74 use a 12 point but I don't know the size

[Shipibo]

Do I really need to remove the stub axel? Charlie

[Rick Lee]

Depends. What are you doing this for? Repacking? Replacing a boot? Which one? I sure would not want to do any of that while laying on my back. It's another 20 min. easy job once you put the axle in a vise on your workbench. Doing it on your back seems to me to be a total nightmare that would take much longer.

[Shipibo]

Richard,
Do I need to remove the stub axel in order to get the axel out? If I remove the 12 Hex head bolts, will the axel come out?
I want to replace the boots and repack the CV joints. Charlie

[jdowty3]

No, you don't HAVE to remove the stub axle to do the job. The benefit would be being able to put the outboard CV completely back together and slide it in place. Rather than trying to hold the axle, boot, CV, and gasket in place while keeping eveything clean and lining up/inserting the bolts. I did mine without removing the stub axle and would probably do it that way again rather than deal with removing the axle nut and exposing the wheel bearing assembly.

[Randy Webb]

It is a very bad idea to drill the bolt heads for safety wire because that weakens the heads, not only because of loss of material but because you introduce stress risers. Do it right and get hex bolts that are made for safety wire. Read Caroll's fastener book for more info on this. Or ask any engineer in the field.

Also, I'll echo the advice to use the washers - I would do that even if my car did not have them installed. If you have 12 pt. bolts ("cap screws" for the anal retentive) it is nice to get the 6 pt. hex bolts. Just be sure to toss the old bolts and use new ones.

I've never pulled out the stub axle to do this -- there is a tip somebody posted to use a bolt with a cut-off head and a screw slot to hold the axles up there. Wish I'd known it when I was futzxing with mine the first 3 times....

Don't forget to use new gaskets.

And sure... there are things you can often get away with... but why take that chance.

[Shipibo]

Thanks everyone for the advice. I still think that one of you intelligent gentlemen might come up with a step by step procedure on removing and replacing Axels. In all the literature, I cannot find a complete description of this procedure-including Wayne's book which gives at least one misleading statement-torque for hex nuts and does not support text with pics. This seems to be something most everyone does at one time or another. Charlie

[jdowty3]

You don't say what year your car is but I have 2 sets of the 8X50 12.9 grade allen head CV bolts with Schnorr washers that fit the non-Turbo 74-85 911 for $14. PM me if you want a set.

[Shipibo]

Jim,
I have an 80 SC Targa- If they will fit, I am interested. Do you take PayPal? Charlie