AC Switch in Center Console

[DonMo]

I am pretty sure the AC switch for fan control (on/off) is toast. Before I break anything, is there a secret for removing it. I don't see a nut or anything else holding it on, it almosts looks like it is a pressure fit.

Words of Wisdom please.

[89911]

Remove the console from the floor and then the outer portion. There may be a few screws in the side holding the AC unit in place. Good time to check for cracks. Those using usually crack around the base from your right leg putting pressure on it.

[david914]

You just need to loosen the nut on the front of the switch. You may have to get a little "creative" if you don't have the proper tool to remove it, but a little twisting of the switch housing while using a pair of pliers (or your fingers) on the nut will loosen it up.

[jdowty3]

Which switch do you mean? The left is the temp control, the middle is the front/rear speaker fade control, the right is the AC evaporator fan switch. The fader is a press fit with 2 locking tab on the top and bottom of the back side. The other 2 have a flat collar style nut under the knob. You can see the nut in the 2nd picture on the right switch with the 2 small holes. I use either an awl or a pair of thin hemostats to remove and install that type of nut.

[scottb]

Snap ring pliers work nicely on that nut.

[Rondinone]

The nut has a long slot on each side. You can put a flathead in there and just twist the nut off if it's not too tight.

[DonMo]

thanks all, I have it.

[nostatic]

on a related note, how do you check if the temp control knob is working? Mine has almost no resistance through most of its turn (especially towards the "cold" end), and I'm wondering if one of my AC issues is that the temp control isn't engaging the unit (although I do feel an rpm drop when I switch the evap/fan on).

[scottb]

Originally posted by nostatic
I'm wondering if one of my AC issues is that the temp control isn't engaging the unit (although I do feel an rpm drop when I switch the evap/fan on).

Todd: The RPM drop is a sure sign that the clutch is engaging. The easiest way to check is to turn the switch off, and observe the a/c clutch, and then turn it on and do the same thing. You should see it turning when the switch is in the on position. Have someone run the temp control up and down. At some point, especially on a more mild day, the clutch should disengage.

[garment]

You just need to loosen the nut on the front of the switch. You may have to get a little "creative" if you don't have the proper tool to remove it, but a little twisting of the switch housing while using a pair of pliers (or your fingers) on the nut will loosen it up.

Old thread, I know, but any advice on removing the fader from the housing?

[scottb]

Originally Posted by garment

Old thread, I know, but any advice on removing the fader from the housing?

IIRC, my housing cracked when I tried to remove the fader. Our host had a plate that goes over the existing plate. The new plate covers the fader hole, but has the holes for the a/c controls.

HTH.

[DRACO A5OG]

PAG has the full cover too, not sure if it is still available.

[Mitch Leland]

I replaced my A/C fan switch w/ Griffith's Variable Fan Switch. It gives you a lot more control for the slower fan speeds.

I also mounted Griffith's compressor cycle light on the A/C panel, plus a fake alarm LED light that one of our members came up with.

[donagain1]

As per garment's question, the fader control has thin spring steel with "ear" tabs surrounding the plastic switch. Squeezing on them will loosen it enough to manipulate and carefully remove it.

[86 911 Targa]

Most of us connect the speaker wires directly to the radio,
and use the radio fader/balance control:

Would this help?

P/N 911.552.259.02